Balinese Recipes

Introduction

There are very few Indonesian cookery books in print. The leading writer is Sri Owen, who was born in West Sumatra and lives in London. She has taught at Murni's Warung and has stayed at Murni's Villas.

Measurements and equivalents

The following recipes use Imperial measurements. Most Imperial units of measurement have the same names in the United States, but they are not all identical in measure! Weights are mostly equivalent but volume is not.

1 English teaspoon = approximately 1¼ US teaspoons.
1 English dessertspoon = approximately 23/4 US teaspoons.
1 English tablespoon = approximately 1¼ US tablespoons.
1 English teacup = 5 fluid ounces.
1 Imperial pint = 2½ US cups or 20 ounces.

To convert

Ounces to grams, multiply ounces by 25.35.
Grams to ounces, multiply grams by 0.035.
Litres to US quarts, multiply litres by 0.95.
US quarts to litres, multiply US quarts by 1.097.

Basic Ingredients

Lemon Grass: Sereh

This intensely fragrant herb is used to impart a lemon flavour to soups, seafood and meat dishes and spice pastes. It can also be used as a skewer for satés.

Cut off the roots and peel off the hard outer leaves; use only the tender bottom portion (15-20 cm / 6-8 in). If the lemon grass is not required sliced, it is normally hit a couple of times with the edge of a cleaver or a pestle to release the fragrance, and tied in a knot to hold it together during cooking.

Prawn Crackers (krupuk kedele)

Dried crackers made from soybean mixed with various types of flour are used as a garnish or eaten as a snack in Bali. They must be thoroughly dry before deep-frying in very hot oil for a few seconds, so that they puff up and become crisp.

Tamarind pulp (lunak)

The dark brown pod of the tamarind tree contains a sour fleshy pulp which adds a fruity sourness to many dishes. Packets of pulp usually contain the seeds and fibres.

To make tamarind juice, measure the pulp and soak it in hot water for 5 minutes before squeezing it to extract the juice, discarding the seeds, fibre and any skin.

Pandan leaf (daun pandan)

The fragrant leaf of a type pandanus is sometimes known as fragrant screwpine. It is tied in a knot and used to flavour desserts and cakes.

Krupuk melinjo

Dried crackers made from Gnetum gnemon fruit mixed with various types of flour are used as a garnish or eaten as a snack in Bali. They must be thoroughly dry before deep-frying in very hot oil for a few seconds, so that they puff up and become crisp.

Nutmeg (jebug garum)

Grate the whole nutmeg just before using as the powdered spice quickly loses its fragrance.

Garlic (kesuna)

Adjust the amount to suit your taste. Balinese garlic cloves are considerably smaller and less pungent than the garlic found in many Western countries.

Kaffir lime (lemo)

The most popular and also the most fragrant, the double leaf of this lime (don lemo) is often very finely shredded and added to minced fish, or left whole, and added to food cooked in liquid. Use kitchen scissors to ensure that the leaf iscut into hair-like shreds. If fragrant lime leaf is not available, use the zest of a lime or lemon.

The milder juice of a small round thin-skinned lime (juwuk lengis) is also used in Bali, as elsewhere in Southeast Asia. A large lime similar to those found internationally grows in Bali, and makes an acceptable substitute for the Kaffir lime. If limes are not available, use lemon juice.

Cinnamon (kayu manis)

The thick, dark brown bark of a type of cassia is used in Bali, rather than true cinnamon. The latter is far more subtle in flavor and considerably more expensive. Look for the bark rather than ground cinnamon.

Cardamom (kapulaga)

A straw-colored, fibrous pod encloses pungent black seeds. Each pod contains about 8-12 seeds; try to buy the whole pod rather than a jar of seeds as the flavor is more intense.

Kencur (cekuh)

Sometimes known as lesser galangal, the botanical name of this ginger-like root is Kaemferia galanga. It has a unique, pungent flavor and should be used sparingly.

Wash it and, if you're fussy (most Balinese cooks aren't) scrape off the skin before using. Dried sliced kencur or kencur powder can be used as a substitute. Soak dried slices in boiling water for 30 minutes; use 1/2 -1 teaspoon of powder for 2.5 cm (1in) fresh root.

Turmeric (kunyit)

A vivid yellow root of the ginger family, this has a very emphatic flavour. Scrape the skin before using. If fresh turmeric is not available, substitute 1 teaspoon of powdered turmeric for 2.5 cm / 1in of the fresh root.

To make turmeric water, peel about 20 cm (8in) of fresh turmeric root; slice finely and combine with 1 cup of water. Process in a blender until very fine, or pound the sliced turmeric in a mortar and then mix with water and let it stand for a couple of minutes. Strain through a sieve, pressing firmly with the back of a spoon to extract all the juice. Store in a jar in the refrigerator.

If fresh turmeric is not available, combine 4 tablespoons of powdered turmeric with 1 cup of water and mix well.

Steamed Rice

The Balinese eat rice at all meals and make it fresh every day. It is the basis of every meal. This is the traditional way of making rice, still followed, although the rice cooker is making inroads.

2 cups white rice

Method

1. Put the rice in a large shallow basket.
2. Shake the basket to toss the rice into the air to get rid of the husks.
3. Wash the rice in cold water and drain.
4. Put the rice in a conical basket over a large pot filled with water and cover it with a terracotta lid.
5. Steam the rice for 30 minutes.
6. Place the rice in a bowl with 2 cups of hot water.
7. Allow it to sit for 15-20 minutes to absorb the water.
8. Return the rice to the steamer and cook for another 30 minutes to dry it out.
9. Do not add salt during the cooking. Put a separate bowl of salt, fried shallots, chopped chillies and coconut oil for guests to add to taste.

Basic recipes for condiments, sauces, stocks and spice pastes

Bawang Goreng - Fried Shallots

1. Peel and thinly slice 10-15 shallots.
2. Dry on a paper towel.
3. Heat about ¼ cup oil until moderately hot.
4. Add shallots and fry until golden brown.
5. Remove and drain thoroughly.
6. Store in airtight jar.

Kacang Goreng - Fried Peanuts

1. Heat 1 cup of oil until moderately hot.
2. Add 1 cup of shelled raw peanuts.
3. Fry for 2 minutes until crisp.
4. Drain on paper towel and sprinkle with salt just before using.

Alternatively, packaged fried salted peanuts can be used.

Acar - Pickled Vegetables

1 small cucumber
1 medium-sized carrot
10-15 bird's-eye chillies
6 shallots, peeled and quartered
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup white sugar
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
pinch of salt

Method

1. Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise.
2. Remove the seeds and cut in half crosswise. Cut into match-sticks.
3. Peel the carrot and cut the same size as the cucumber.
4. Combine water, sugar, vinegar and salt in a pan, bring to the boil, simmer 1 minute.
5. Cool.
6. Mix vegetables with the dressing and refrigerate for at least 24 hours.
7. Serve at room temperature.

Sambal Sere Tabia - Fried Bird's-Eye Chillies

1. Clean and discard the stems of about 25 bird's-eye chillies.
2. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a wok or saucepan until smoking hot.
3. Crumble 1 1/2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste (terasi) and combine with ¼ teaspoon salt.
4. Add chillies, shrimp paste and salt to the oil.
5. Stir over heat for 1 minute.
6. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Tabia Lalah Manis - Chilli in Soya Sauce

1. Slice 15 bird's-eye chillies and mix with ¼ cup each of sweet soya sauce (kecap manis) and thin soya sauce (kecap asin).
2. Do not store for long as this sauce can become sour.

Saur - Fried Shredded Coconut

1 cup finely grated fresh coconut or dessicated coconut, moistened with warm water
2 tablespoons chicken spice paste
11/2 tablespoons oil
1 tablespoon chopped palm sugar
a pinch of salt

Method

1. Combine coconut with spice paste.
2. Heat oil in a wok, add coconut mixture and palm sugar and saute over low heat until the coconut turns golden brown.
3. Allow to cool before adding salt.
4. Store in an airtight container and it will keep fresh for several days.

Sambel Tomat - Tomato Sambal

This sambal can be deep-frozen. Served together with Sambel Matah, it makes and ideal accompaniment to grilled fish.

4 tablespoons oil
15 shallots, peeled and sliced
14 large red chillies, seeds removed, sliced
2 medium-sized tomatoes each cut in 6 wedges
2 teaspoons roasted dried shrimp paste
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Method

1. Heat oil in a heavy saucepan or wok.
2. Add shallots and garlic and saute 5 minutes over low heat.
3. Add chillies and saute another 5 minutes.
4. Add tomato and shrimp paste and simmer another 10 minutes.
5. Add lime juice.
6. Put all ingredients in a food processor and purée coarsely.
7. Season to taste with salt.
8. Cool before use.

Sambel Matah - Shallots and Lemon Grass Sambal

15 shallots
4 cloves garlic, sliced finely
10-15 bird's-eye chillies, sliced
5 fragrant lime leaves, cut in hair-like shreds
1 teaspoon roasted dried shrimp paste
4 stalks lemon grass, tender part only, very finely sliced
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns, finely crushed
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1/3 cup oil

Method

1. Peel shallots and slice in half lengthwise, then cut in fine crosswise slices. Cutting them in this fashion ensures the slices do not separate into fine rings.
2. Combine with all other ingredients and mix thoroughly for a couple of minutes before serving with fish or chicken.

Base Satay - Satay Sauce

500g (1lb)raw peanuts, deep fried for 2 minutes
5 cloves garlic, peeled
6-10 bird's-eye chillies
10cm (4 in) kencur root, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup chopped palm sugar
2 liters (8 cups) fresh coconut milk
4 tablespoons sweet soya sauce
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon fried shallots

Method

1. Comibine peanuts, garlic, chillies and kencur in a food processor and purée or grind coarsely in a stone mortar.
2. Put in heavy pan with coconut milk and sweet soya sauce.
3. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered, stirring frequently to prevent the sauce from sticking, for 1 hour.
4. Add lime juice and sprinkle with shallots just before serving as a saté sauce.

Base Rujak - Rujak Sauce

6 tablespoons tamarind pulp
1 cup palm sugar syrup
1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste, roasted
6 bird's-eye chillies, left whole
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup water

Method

1. Combine all ingredients in a heavy pan and bring slowly to the boil.
2. Stir well and simmer for 10 minutes.
3. When cool, squeeze to extract all the juice from the tamrind and strain through a sieve.

Base Kacang - Peanut Sauce

This sauce is used as a dressing for vegetable salads or cooked vegetables.

500g (1lb) raw peanuts, deep-fried for 2 minutes
4 cloves garlic, peeled
8 cm (3 in) kencur root, peeled and coarsely chopped
10-15 bird's-eye chillies, sliced
1/2 cup chopped palm sugar
1 1/2 litres (6 cups) water
1/2 cup sweet soya sauce
3 fragrant lime leaves
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons fried shallots

Method

1. Combine peanuts, garlic, kencur, and chillies and process or grind using a mortar and pestle until coarsely ground.
2. Put in a heavy pan with all other ingredients except lime juice.
3. Sprinkle with shallots just before serving.

Kuah siap - Chicken stock

To make beef, duck and pork stock, use same quantities but reduce simmering time for pork to 2 hours.

Makes 3 liters.

5 kg (11lb) chicken bones, chopped in 2 1/2 cm (1 in) pieces
1 1/2 cups of soup marinade
1 stalk lemon grass, lightly bruised
3 fragrant lime leaves
2 salam leaves
1 teaspoon black pepercorns, coarsely crushed
1 teaspoon salt

Method

1. Rinse bones until water is clear.
2. Put in large saucepan with cold water to cover and bring to boil.
3. Drain water and wash bones again under running water.
4. Return bones to the pan, cover with fresh water and return to the boil.
5. Reduce heat and remove scum with a ladle.
6. Add all seasoning ingredients and simmer stock gently for 3-3 1/2 hours, removing scum as it accumulates.
7. Do not to cover the pan during cooking as it will make the stock cloudy.
8. Strain stock, cool and store in small containers in the deep freezer.

Santan - Coconut Milk

This is used in many Balinese recipes. The thickness is determined by how much coconut and water is used.

Coconut and warm water

Method

1. Grate the coconut.
2. Put the grated coconut in a large bowl.
3. For each cup of grated coconut, add one cup of warm water.
4. Squeeze the coconut for a few minutes to release the milk.
5. Strain the coconut mixture and discard the grated coconut.

Base - Spice Paste

The basic seasonings used in Balinese cooking are known as base - pronounced bahseh. They can be prepared in advance and stored in a refrigerator for up to a week. They can also be divided into smaller quantities and deep-frozen.

If you are using a mortar and pestle, grind the dry spices such as pepper and coriander first, then add the hardest ingredients, the roots such as laos and kencur. When these are finely ground, add the shallots and chillies, then finally soft ingredients such as shrimp paste. If using a food processor, blend the dry spices first, then add all other ingredients, except the oil.

Base Gede - Basic Spice Paste

This basic marinade is used mainly to neutralise the strong flavour of duck, lamb or pork.

Makes about 2 cups.

25 shallots, peeled and chopped
12 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
7 large red chillies, seeded and chopped
5 cm (2 in) laos, peeled and chopped
5 cm (2 in) kencur root, peeled and chopped
10 cm (4 in) fresh turmeric, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
6 candlenuts
2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste
1/2 teaspoons balck peppercorns
1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg
3 cloves
4 tablespoons oil

Method

1. Pound or process all ingredients except oil as above.
2. Heat oil in wok or heavy pan, add all ingredients, and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes until the marinade turns golden.
3. Cool before use.

Base Be Sampi - Spice Paste for Beef

To maximise the flavor of meat, make sure it is thoroughly coated with this marinade and refrigerate for 24 hours before using.

10 shallots, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
5 cm (2 in) ginger root, peeled and chopped
10 cm (4in) laos, peeled and chopped
6 large red chillies, seeded and chopped
7 bird's-eye chillies
10 candlenuts
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 salam leaves
4 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
4 tablespoon oil

Method

1. Combine all ingredients except salam leaves and oil, place in food processor and grind coarsely
2. Heat vegetable oil in heavy saucepan or wok until very hot.
3. Add ground ingredients together with salam leaves and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until marinade changes to golden colour.
4. Set aside and cool before use.

Base Be Siap - Spice Paste for Chicken

14 shallots, peeled
26 cloves garlic, peeled
2 1/2 cm (1in) kencur root, peeled and chopped
4 cm (1 1/2 in) laos, peeled and chopped
10 candlenuts
12cm (5in) fresh turmeric, peeled and chopped
4 tablespoons chopped palm sugar
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 stalks lemon grass, bruised
2 salam leaves
10 bird's-eye chillies, finely sliced

Method

1. Put shallots, garlic, kencur, laos, candlenuts, turmeric and palm sugar into a food processor and grind coarsely.
2. Heat oil in a wok until very hot, stirring frequently, until the marinade changes to a golden colour.
3. Set aside to cook before use.

Base Be Pasih - Spice Paste for Seafood

10 large red chillies, seeded and chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
15 shallots, peeled and chopped
10cm (4in) fresh turmeric, peeled and chopped
1 medium-sized tomato, skinned and seeded
10 cm (4in) ginger, peeled and chopped
10 candlenuts
1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste, roasted
4 tablespoons oil
3 tablespoons tamarind pulp
2 salam leaves
2 stalks lemon grass

Method

1. Process all ingredients except oil, tamarind and pulp, salam leaves and lemon grass until coarsely ground.
2. Heat oil, add ground ingredients and cook over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until golden.
3. Cool before use.

Soto Ayam - Indonesian chicken soup

This is a Balinese recipe of a very popular soup-stew eaten all over Indonesia. It originated in the Madura region of Java. Balinese chickens are free range - literally - they run all over most Balinese compounds. They are smaller, tougher and tastier than battery-produced birds. If you wish the soup can be cooked with glass noodles, chilli and/or kidney beans.

For 4 people

2 chicken breasts
Salt

Garnishes

1 medium potato
6 shallots or 1 medium onion, sliced
Oil, preferably coconut oil
6-8 prawn crackers (krupuk)
2 hard-boiled eggs cut in four
60g / 2oz beansprouts
4-5 sliced spring onions
2 small sprigs seledri or curly-leaved parsley

Condiments

2 cloves garlic, minced
Walnut-sized piece of fresh root ginger
1 cm / ½ in fresh turmeric root or ½ tsp ground dried turmeric
2 candle nuts or macademia nuts (optional)
1-2 tbsp oil, preferably coconut oil
8 cm / 3 in piece of fresh lemon grass or 4-5 leaves dried
2 daun salam leaves or 8 bay leaves
Salt
1 tbsp kecap manis or molasses

Method

1. Put the 2 chicken breasts in a pot, add a litre of water and add salt to taste. Cover tightly and simmer until well done.
2. Prepare the garnishes: slice the potato thinly. Then cut into quarters. Fry the sliced shallots in 3-4 tbsp oil in a wok, initially on a high heat, then turn down. When brown and crisp, remove and drain. Add the sliced potato to the wok (with the remaining oil), fry, stir occasionally. When golden brown remove and set aside.
3. Put more oil in wok. Add prawn crackers one at a time. When they expand put them on absorbent paper.
4. Put the shallots, potato and prawn crackers into separate bowls. Put them and other garnishes aside.
5. Remove chicken breasts when cooked and shred with a fork.
6. Prepare the condiments: heat 1-2 tbsp oil and fry the garlic, ginger, turmeric and nuts quickly. Add 375 ml / 2/3 pint of the chicken soup, lemon grass, daun salam or bay leaves and salt to taste. Stir and cover. Cook on a very high heat for 5-8 minutes. Add kecap manis or molasses, the shredded chicken and the remaining chicken soup.
7. If necessary dilute with water. Heat thoroughly.
8. Put beansprouts, seledri or parsley and hard-boiled eggs equally into 4 separate bowls and add the soup. Serve the shallots, potato and prawn crackers separately in bowls.

Tom

It is pronounced "toom". Originally a banana leaf would be used instead of aluminium foil, and blood would be used instead of black pudding or pig's liver.

For 4 - 6 people

450g / 1lb boneless pork chops
168g / 6oz / 1½ cups papaya or cassava leaves, or young vine leaves or curly kale
10 cm / 4 in stem of rhubarb or 1 green apple, peeled and chopped
285 ml / ½ pint / 1¼ cups coconut milk or cold water
85-110 g / 3-4 oz / ½ cup black pudding or pig's liver
Salt and pepper

For the paste

5 shallots or 1 onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tsp coriander seed
2 tsp chopped ginger
3-6 red chillies, deseeded and chopped
2.5 cm / 1 in piece of galingale, chopped
1 tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp kencur powder (optional)
1 tsp shrimp paste
1 tsp salt
5 tbsp coconut milk or peanut oil

Method

1. With a cleaver, chop the pork chops, or mince them in a mincer. Keep aside.
2. Shred the leaves finely, and chop the black pudding, discarding the skin. If liver is used, chop this also.
3. Put all the ingredients for the paste in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth.
4. Then transfer to a small saucepan and simmer for 6 minutes, stirring often. Add the shredded leaves and the chopped rhubarb or apple, stir well, and then add the coconut milk.
5. Continue to simmer for about ten minutes. Adjust the seasoning and leave this to get cold.
6. Meanwhile put the chopped or minced pork together with the chopped black pudding or liver in a large glass bowl. When the paste with the leaves is cold, mix this well into the meat.
7. Divide the mixture into equal proportions, wrap each in a banana leaf square, and steam for 35-40 minutes.
8. Alternatively, place the meat mixture on a large piece of aluminium foil, roll it to make a sausage shape, and wrap it loosely in the foil, preferably with a second layer of foil around it. Put this parcel on a baking tray, and cook in a pre-heated oven at 160C / 320F / Gas Mark 3 for 50-60 minutes.
9. Serve hot and warm with rice.

Lawar Babi - Shredded Spicy Pork

Family ceremonies are always accompanied by food and lawar is always served. Lawar means "sliced thinly". Men sit in a large circle and rhtmically chop the food. The expert at mixng lawar sits at the head. It is a style of cooking meat, fruit or vegetables. In the traditional recipe animal blood and entrails are used, but this is not necessary. In Bali pork is plentiful and a popular ingredient.

For 4 people

3 shallots or 1 small onion
2 cloves garlic
500g / 1lb lean, boneless pork, cut into thin strips
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground coriander seed
1 tsp ground galangal (optional)
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp peanut oil
1 fresh red chilli, finely chopped
1 daun salam leaf or 4 curry leaves
250ml / 9oz coconut cream
1 tbsp dried tamarind

Method

1. Pulverize the shallots or onion and the garlic in a food processor or with a mortar and pestle. Rub this mixture into the meat, with the cumin, coriander, galangal and salt.
2. Heat the peanut oil in a pan and sauté the pork mixture for several minutes.
3. Add the chopped chilli, daun salam or curry leaves and coconut cream.
4. Simmer uncovered until the meat is tender and the liquid has reduced.
5. Break the tamarind into small pieces. Place in a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 5 minutes.
6. Squeeze to extract all the juice. Rub through a sieve to remove any pith and stones.
7. Stir the steamed juice into the pork.

Babi Kecap

This is a popular pork dish with a spicy sauce.

1 lb pork
2 long red chilllies
5 hot chillies
5 shallots
3 cloves of garlic
1 piece of turmeric
1 piece of ginger
1 piece of lesser galangal
1 piece of greater galangal
1 teaspoon terasi
1 teaspoon pepper
1½ teaspoon salt
4 lbs sweet soy sauce
2 tablespoons oil

Method

1. Cut pork into strips.
2. Blend the chillies, shallots, garlic, turmeric, ginger, lesser galangal, greater galangal, terasi, pepper and salt.
3. Add soy sauce and oil to the spice mixture.
4. Put pork and spices in a large pot.
5. Fill the pot with water to cover the meat.
6. Cook for 1 hour.
7. When the water has boiled away, the pork is ready.

Bebek Betutu - Smoked duck

This is Bali's most famous dish. Traditionally this delicious duck dish would be cooked for three days in the ground (that is why it has to be ordered in advance in restaurants), but as this may be a bit impractical in the West, here is a recipe for cooking it in the oven. Chicken can also be used.

For 4 - 6 people

175-250g / 6-8 oz curly kale or spinach, blanched in boiling water for 2 minutes, squeezed dry and shredded
1 duck -1.75-2 kg / 3½-4 lbs

For the paste

5 shallots or 2 medium onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
5 fresh red chillies, deseeded and chopped
2 candlenuts or macadamia nuts, chopped (optional)
2 tsp coriander seeds, roughly crushed
1 tsp cumin seeds, roughly crushed
2 cloves, roughly crushed
2 green cardamom pods, roughly crushed
2.5 cm / 1 in piece of cinnamon stick, roughly crushed
¼ tsp ground or grated nutmeg
½ tsp ground turmeric
¼ tsp ground white pepper, plus extra to taste
1 cm / ½ in piece of galangal, peeled and chopped
5 cm / 2 in piece of fresh lemongrass, outer leaves removed, centre chopped
1 tsp dried shrimp paste
3 tbsp tamarind water (see below) or limejuice
2 tbsp each of groundnut oil and water
1 tsp salt, plus extra to taste

Method

1. Put all the paste ingredients into a blender and blend until as smooth as possible. Transfer the paste mixture to a pan and simmer for 6-8 minutes, stirring frequently. Season to taste and then transfer the paste to a glass bowl and leave to cool.
2. Mix half the cold paste with the shredded kale or spinach. Rub the remaining paste over the duck, inside and out. Stuff the shredded greens into the duck. Loosely wrap the duck in 2 or 3 layers of foil, folding the foil over the top to seal.
3. Put the duck in a roasting pan and place in the centre of the oven preheated to 160C / 325F / Gas Mark 3. Cook for 2 hours, then reduce the oven temperature to 120C / 250F / Gas Mark 1/2 and cook for a further 3 to 4 hours.
4. Unwrap the duck and transfer to a large dish. Spoon off and discard the oil from the cooking juices. For the sauce, pour the juices into a pan, add the stuffing from the duck and heat through.
5. Carve the duck: it will be very tender so the meat will come off the bones very easily, and then transfer the meat to the heated serving platter.
6. Serve the duck immediately with the sauce poured over it or served separately in a bowl - with rice.

Tamarind Water

Method

1. Place a block of tamarind pulp in a large bowl. Add enough hand-hot water to cover, and then squeeze the pulp between your fingers until it has separated from the seeds and the water is brown.
2. Pour the mixture into a sieve set over a pan. Strain off the liquid. Mashing the pulp against the sides of the sieve. Bring the liquid in the pan to the bowl, and then simmer for ten minutes. Leave to cool.
3. Spoon one tablespoon of liquid into each section of an ice-cube tray, then freeze.
4. Remove the cubes from the tray and store in freezer bags. Use one cube for each tablespoon of tamarind water.

Saté Pentul

Saté is eaten all over Asia, but this version is pure Balinese.

For 4 people

½ kg / 1lb 2oz pork, leg or fillet
½ / 1 tsp sambal ulek (see below)
3 cloves garlic
½ tsp ginger powder
1 tsp coriander seed, roasted and crushed
1 tsp brown sugar
2 tsp soya sauce
1 tbsp tamarind water
2 lbs grated or desiccated coconut
1 duck egg or hen egg
Salt
6 tbsp coconut milk

Method

1. Mince the pork, including some of the fat. Crush the garlic and mix it with the sambal ulek. To this add the ginger powder, crushed coriander, sugar, soya sauce and tamarind water. Put about half a teaspoonful of this mixture into the coconut milk in a bowl, and keep this in a cool place until the sate is ready for grilling.
2. Beat the egg well. Mix the remainder of the spices with the minced meat, and add the grated coconut, beaten egg and some salt. Mix everything well together and shape into small balls the size of a walnut. Put 4 meatballs on to a bamboo skewer just before you are ready to grill. You can make the mixture up to 24 hours before, but don't mould it or put it on to skewers until the last moment; if you do, the balls will tend to split and fall off.
3. Grill slowly, turning carefully from time to time. After 4 or 5 minutes, when the mixture should be half-cooked and pretty firm, brush the balls with the spiced coconut milk and carry on grilling until they are golden brown. If you brush on the coconut milk too soon, the meat will tend to fall to pieces.
4. The bamboo skewers used for this type of sate are not the usual thin variety, but are about the thickness of a lollypop stick. The sate can be eaten by itself, with peanut sauce (see below) or a dipping sauce like sambal kecap (see below).
5. Eat immediately.

Bumbu Kacang - Peanut Sauce

Peanut sauce is one of Indonesia's most popular condiments. It varies in degrees of spiciness and sweetness. It can be served with snacks or a main course. It complements meat, vegetables and soybean products. Do not reheat it.

For 4 people

75g / 3oz roasted peanuts
6 dried small hot chillies, soaked
1 medium onion
1 clove garlic
5 candlenuts or macadamias
¾ tsp finely grated lemon peel
2 tbsp oil
375 ml (2/3 pt) coconut cream
2 tsp brown sugar
Salt to taste

Method

1. Pulverize the peanuts in a food processor with a little oil or substitute 5 tablespoons of peanut butter. Set aside.
2. Pulverize the chillies, onion, garlic and nuts in a food processor or pound or chop very finely. Fry in oil over a low heat for 4-5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the lemon peel and coconut cream and bring almost to the boil. Add peanuts, tamarind (soaked in 4 tablespoons of boiling water and strained), brown sugar and salt to taste.
3. Serve at room temperature.

Sambal Kecap

For 4 people

2 tbsp soy sauce
Juice of 1 lemon or 2 limes
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 small red chilli, crushed

Method

Mix ingredients with a dash of water.

Sambal Ulek

This is a basic sambal, which is a good side dish to accompany most meals. It will keep in the fridge. It can usefully be made in quantity.

For 300 ml / ½ pint

250g / 8oz large red fresh chillies
1 tsp salt
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp tamarind water or distilled white vinegar
2 tbsp hot water

Method

1. Put the chillies in a large pan of boiling water and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain well in a sieve.
2. Put the chillies into a blender, add the remaining ingredients and blend until as smooth as possible. Transfer the sauce to a pan and cook over a low heat, stirring frequently for 8 minutes.
3. Remove the pan from the heat and leave until cold. The sauce can be kept refrigerated in an airtight jar for up to 4 weeks.

Sambal Goreng

10 shallots, finely sliced
8 garlic cloves, finely sliced
8-10 small chillies, finely sliced
¼ cup canola/peanut oil
1 tsp terasi
3 chillies
1 tsp sea salt

Method

1. Mix the terasi with the sea salt.
2. Heat the oil slowly in a wok over a medium flame.
3. Add the onion and garlic.
4. Fry for about a minute, moving the ingredients back and forth continually until they are pale golden brown.
5. Add the chilli and terasi mixed with salt.
6. Fry for about 20 seconds or until the chilli is cooked and is bright and glossy.
7. Strain and transfer to a small bowl. The oil can be used again.
8. 2 or 3 tbs of crunchy, fried onions can be added to the sambal as an alternative to frying with onion.

Ikan Bali - Balinese fish

There are fishing villages along the coast of Bali. The fishermen go out in beautifully pained sailing boats called prahu or prows, whose bows are shaped like long trunks with eyes painted on the sides to help them see at night.

For 4 people

2 tbsp dried tamarind
2 tbsp dried lemon grass
4 tbsp peanut oil
16 shallots or 6 small onions
2-3 fresh chillies, finely chopped
Walnut-sized piece of fresh root ginger, grated
1 tsp ground galangal (optional)
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp brown sugar
1 tsp terasi (preserved shrimp paste)
4 tbsp kecap manis
750g-1kg / 2lb fish, either fillets or steaks

Method

1. Prepare the sauce: break the tamarind into tiny pieces and place in a saucepan with 375 ml (2/3 pt) water and the dried lemon grass. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Leave for another 5 minutes to infuse. Squeeze the mixture and then rub through a sieve, discarding the lemon grass and any pith and seeds of the tamarind. Set the strained juice aside.
2. Heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the shallots or onions until lightly browned. Add the strained tamarind juice, fresh chillies, ginger, galangal (if using), garlic, sugar, terasi and kecap manis.
3. Cook the fish. Traditionally it is deep fried, but it is also good grilled.
4. Heat the sauce thoroughly and pour over the fish.

Nasi Kuning Yellow Rice

In Bali yellow rice is eaten on the ceremony of Kuningan, but it is also eaten on other days as well. It is eaten in other parts of Indonesia to celebrate weddings and the birth of children. The method of cooking is different from ordinary rice. It is very Balinese to eat the yellow rice with green beans cooked with coconut cream, chilli, palm sugar and shrimp paste. Do not add flavoured accompaniments, as the coconut flavour of the rice is very subtle and can be obliterated.

For 4 people

500g / 1lb long-grain rice
400 ml / ¾ pint coconut cream
1 tsp ground turmeric
Pinch of salt
2 cloves
1 daun salam or 3 curry leaves

Method

1. Soak the rice in water for an hour. Move it to a coriander, wash and drain it. Place it in a saucepan with the coconut cream, turmeric, salt, cloves and daun salam or curry leaves.
2. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 5-6 minutes until the rice has absorbed all the coconut cream.
3. Stir and transfer to a collapsible steamer basket or Chinese steamer and steam for another 20 minutes. (If you do not have a steamer, place the lid on the pot tightly and leave on the lowest heat for another 10 minutes).

Nasi Goreng - Fried Rice

Fried rice is eaten throughout Indonesia as a main course or as an accompaniment. For the best type cook the rice about 2-3 hours before it is fried.

For 4 - 6 people as an accompaniment

500g (1lb) long-grain rice, washed in 2 changes of water, drained
600 ml (1 pint) cold water
3 tbsp groundnut oil
3 shallots or 1 small onion, very finely chopped
1-3 large fresh red chillies, deseeded and cut into thin rounds or ½ tsp chilli powder
1 tsp chopped fresh ginger root
2 medium carrots, finely diced
60g (2oz) white cabbage, finely shredded
125g (4oz) button mushrooms, quartered
1 tsp paprika
2 tsp tomato purée or tomato ketchup
1 tbsp light soy sauce
Salt to taste

For the garnish

½ cucumber, sliced
2 tbsp crisp-fried onions
Few sprigs of watercress

Method

1. Place the drained rice and cold water in a large pan. Bring to the boil, uncovered, then simmer for 10-12 minutes, until all the water is absorbed. Stir once with a wooden spoon, then reduce the heat to low. Cover the pan and leave to cook undisturbed for 10-12 minutes.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and place it, still covered, on a wet tea towel. Leave for 5 minutes. Spoon the rice into a bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and leave to stand for 2-3 hours or until completely cold.
3. Heat the oil in a wok. Add the shallots or onion, fresh chillies or chilli powder and the ginger and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes. Add the carrots and cabbage, and stir-fry for a further 2 minutes.
4. Add all the remaining ingredients, except the rice and garnishes, and stir-fry for 5 minutes or until all the vegetables are cooked through.
5. Add the cold rice and mix it thoroughly with the vegetables over a low heat, until it is heated through and takes on a reddish tinge of the paprika and tomato purée. Do not allow the rice to burn.
6. Transfer the mixture to a heated serving dish and arrange the garnishes on top and around the dish.

Buncis Pelecing - Beans in Coconut Milk

Beans are mixed with a creamy coconut milk sauce.

For 6 - 8 people

500g/1lb green beans
1 ½ cup coconut, grilled and grated
Salt to taste
2 lime leaves, shredded
3 tsp fried onions

Suna-Cekoh

4 cloves garlic
3 tsp kencur
2-4 tbs oil
2 candlenuts
2 tsp turmeric

Kuah (spice mixture)

Suna-cekoh
½ stick lemongrass, knotted
2-4 lime leaves
½ tsp white pepper
2 cups coconut milk
2 tbs fried onion
1 tbs vegetable oil

Method

1. To prepare the Kuah, blend the Suna-Cekoh ingredients: garlic, kencur, candlenuts, white pepper and turmeric in a food processor or grind them with a mortar and pestle until they are fine.
2. In a wok gently sauté the suma-cekoh mixture in vegetable oil, over a medium flame, with the lemongrass, lime leaves and salam leaves for a minute. Add coconut milk and fried onion.
3. Stir constantly over a low heat, so the mixture does not separate, until it has thickened.
4. Trim the beans, steam or boil and chop finely. Mix the lime leaves, fried onion, and kuah thoroughly with the grated coconut. Add the cooked chopped beans. Add salt, extra fried onion and lime leaves if necessary.
5. As a substitute for candlenut, use ground almonds.
6. Add sambal goreng for extra spiciness.

Black Rice Pudding

You can get black rice in the West now, but if it is a problem, wild rice can also be used, provided you cook it separately in 340 ml / 12 fl oz / 1½ cups for 30 minutes before you start to cook it with the milk. Preparation takes between 2 and 4 hours for soaking and then about 20 minutes. Cooking takes between 40 and 45 minutes.

For 6 - 8 people

170g / 6oz / 2/3 cup black glutinous rice or wild rice, soaked for 2-4 hours, then drained
570ml / 1 pint / 2½ cups cow's milk or coconut milk
A large pinch of salt
84g / 3oz soft butter
84g / 3oz / ½ cup sugar
3 eggs
3 tbsp Demerara sugar

Method

1. Bring the rice, milk and salt to the boil in a saucepan and simmer for 25-30 minutes.
2. Beat the butter and sugar for 3-4 minutes, and then add the eggs. Continue beating for 5-6 minutes longer. Combine this with the cool rice mixture.
3. Butter a round soufflé dish and pour the rice mixture into it. Sprinkle the brown sugar on top.
4. Bake in a preheated oven at 180C / 350F / Gas Mark 4 for 40-45 minutes.
5. Serve hot or warm, with whipped cream if you wish.

Rujak - Sweet-Sour Fruit Salad

This is a refreshing snack or desert, a combination of sweet, sour, spicy and salty flavours. It is also ideal as an appetizer. It can be used as a dip for spring rolls. The fruits can be changed, if unavailable in the West.

The Balinese use pomelo (like a grapefruit), which could be substituted by a grapefruit or oranges and kedondong, which could be substituted by apples. Fish sauce can be used instead of terasi. Kecap manis can be used instead of palm sugar.

For 4 people

1 orange, peeled
2 slightly unripe pears or mangoes
1 slightly unripe apple
½ fresh pineapple, peeled
1 cucumber
1 tbsp dried tamarind pulp
1 fresh red chilli or ½ tsp dried chilli
½ tsp terasi (preserved shrimp paste)
3 tbsp brown sugar or palm sugar
Large pinch of salt

For fruit preparation:

1. Divide the orange into segments.
2. Cut all the rest of the fruit and the cucumber into equal-sized pieces.
3. Prepare the fruit in advance and place in slightly salted water.

For the sauce:

1. Break the tamarind into pieces. Place in a bowl. Pour over 4 tbsp boiling water. Leave to stand for 5 minutes.
2. Pound the chilli, shrimp paste, sugar and salt. Strain the tamarind pulp to get rid of the pith and stones and mix in.
3. Pour over the fruit and mix well.

Palm Sugar Syrup

250g palm sugar
250cc water

Method

1. Simmer the palm sugar with the water until it is thick and syrup-like.
2. Strain it immediately.
3. Add vanilla beans or pandan leaves to increase the aroma.