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Tribal Art: Ceremonial Dress: Buckles


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Sumatra Belt and Buckle

Sumatra Belt and Buckle

Material: Silver buckle, padded ikat belt with colored glass, old
Style: Minangkabau, West Sumatra
Size: Buckle: length 25 cm, width 12 cm; Belt: length 70 cm, width 12.5 cm
Order Number: TACD0

Background: The Mingangkabau people live in the inland mountainous regions and hills and plains around Padang on the west coast of Sumatra. They claim descent from Alexander the Great. They are one of the world's few matrilinear societies. Women inherit titles of nobility, houses and rice fields. It is also deeply Islamic.

Ceremonies are important and frequent and magnificent ceremonial dress is worn. Impressive size and exquisite niello work make this an outstanding example of a Minangkabau man's belt or ikek pinggang.

The padded ikat belt is still attached, which is rare. One or more layered central plaques in the buckle mark the social status of the owner.

Islam began to spread into Sumatra in the late 13th century and,the influence is seen in the arabesques and foliage.

Niello was a speciality. The metalwork is very fine.The decorative patterns are cut into the front surface of the silver. The background is then cut back further, roughened and filled with a preparation of lead, copper, silver and sulphur in powder form, which melts when heated.

Polishing helps in creating a smooth surface of black and silver. Sumatran niello often has a very grey color and great sheen because there is a high silver content.

Niello work was carried out in Sumatra until the early 20th century, but very little is produced now.

There is a similar belt and buckle in Walk in Splendour, Ceremonial Dress and the Minangkabau, UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History, 1999, (Fig 5.46, page 95).




Belt Buckle 1

Belt Buckle 1

Material: Brass
Style: Palembang, Sumatra
Size: Length 22 cm, width 10.5 cm
Order Number: TACD1

Belt Buckle 2

Belt Buckle 2

Material: Gold
Style: Palembang, Sumatra
Size: Length 15.5 cm, width 8.5 cm
Order Number: TACD2

Belt Buckle 3

Belt Buckle 3

Material: Brass, niello
Style: Palembang, Sumatra
Size: Length 19.5 cm, width 11 cm
Order Number: TACD3




Belt Buckle 4

Belt Buckle 4

Material: Brass, gold-plate
Style: Palembang, Sumatra
Size: Length 18 cm, width 9 cm
Order Number: TACD4

Belt Buckle 5

Belt Buckle 5

Material: Brass
Style: Palembang, Sumatra
Size: Length 16.5 cm, width 10 cm
Order Number: TACD5

 

 

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