Away to Bali
Patricia Agles As we stepped off the plane, we entered into one of the most extravagant wedding celebrations of our lives. Two very well known Balinese families planned this week long celebration to correspond with the full moon, as well as the Chinese and Balinese Hindu calendars. It was an auspicious date to remember. The groom's guests arrived from Hong Kong and mainland China shortly before us. Over 1,000 guests had assembled for a breathtaking series of ceremonies, pageantry, parties, offerings and blessings. Everyone moved from Chinese Buddhist temple ceremonies in Denpasar (the capital in the south of Bali) to the Balinese Hindu ceremonies in Ubud.
The wedding reception was a gala to remember. A mixture of traditional Chinese music, magic, and illusion were combined with traditional Balinese music and dance. In addition, Copacbana style entertainment increased the gaiety of the event. At one point, the groom's father joined in a Chinese melody with his beautiful voice. The evening was filled with love and friendship and our 11,000-mile journey seemed effortless. A few days later, an important farewell ceremony took place at the bride's family temple. The entire village of Ubud turned out to bid the bride farewell as she began her life at the groom's family compound. The high priest performed an elaborate anointing and blessing ritual. Towers of food offerings swayed in the breeze. The men and the women of the village had been preparing the offerings for a month, with extraordinary love and talent. Baskets were prepared for each guest, and filled with Chinese tea, cookies, and delectable treats. As the day turned into evening, the Balinese feast was laid before us and traditional gamelan music filled the air.
The villa where we stayed had just been a dream for our friend Murni when we met years ago. In those days, we would trek the terraces and listen to her plans. Murni has built an unbelievable hideaway outside of Ubud overlooking the rice terraces and within view of the sacred volcanic mountains of Mount Batur and Mount Agung. The bamboo and alang-alang ceilings soar in true Buddhist architecture. The architectural dimensions are based on the measurements of the owner's anatomy. As the plans are drawn Feng Shui principles are kept in mind when locating the water and mountain views, along with tiger and dragon elements. On the night of our arrival, we drove along a path filled with firefies, for which the name of the place, Villa Kunang-Kunang, is derived. The lava stone Buddha, carved in Java near Borobodur, nodded a knowing greeting. Murni greeted us with a hug, as a chorus of frogs began a jungle symphony that lasted through the night. Murni said that they were welcoming us back home. The next day we awakened to a mist descending down the rice terraces from the sacred volacnoes. It was cool and crisp as the birds flew in and out of our villa's veranda. The view is so enjoyable that we often dined outside while fireflies danced around our heads. The traditional food of Bali is spicy and tasty. Soto ayam, tom yum and pumpkin-tomato soups are more than enough for dinner, but we always added Thai Fish, cap-cay, red rice and tofu with tempe in red curry sauce. Jackfruit or banana fritters with black rice pudding and ginger tea were served for dessert. An important part of our trip each year is the time we spend with local artisans and craftspeople, who create the fine pieces we sell at the Galleria of Boca Grande. Our travel adventures, buying expeditions, and funny stories are a few of the things that set our business apart. We return in the evening to the cocktail lounge at Murni's Warung. A giant bronze Ganesha dominates the center of the lounge, which is decorated with masks, temple doors, and several life-sized reclining Buddhas. An ancient Bonsai tree grows in the center of the bar. Between the liquor bottles sit more deities watching in silence. With locals perched precariously on bar stools, Murni offers libations to her friends. Charles orders a big Bintang to share and fried potato wedges, while the storytellers begin to gather around. The invisible world is felt so strongly here, overlooking the River Campuan. The spirits dwell all around this area. We touch, hear, and inhale deeply. It is as if we have never left this place where time does not exist. We are always here.
Chuck and Patricia Agles have been travelling to Bali for the last ten years in search of unique art and crafts for the Galleria of Boca Grande.
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