| Rapture Among The Rice Fields
Carol Walker
Once upon a time, deep in the heart of Bali where two rivers meet, there was an abandoned rice paddy. Untended terraces hinted at past human habitation, but nature reigned unfettered. Beneath a dazzling tropical sun, a scented profusion of palms, ferns, vines, hibiscus and other vegetation blanketed the land, sloping gently toward a deep gorge.
Then, 10 years ago, humans returned to the paddy, raising man-made structures where once wilderness thrived untouched. Contrary to what you might think, this is not a story of beauty lost. Thankfully, it is a tale of paradise found. The land was purchased by Ibu Murni, a Balinese entrepreneur of exquisite artistic vision. She has long used her many successful business ventures (which include shops, a restaurant and accommodations) as vehicles to bring the finest of Balinese arts and traditions to the forefront.
The views alone are reason enough to visit. Curving rice terraces thread their way among the trees. Butterflies zoom about, sometimes swooping two-by-two in mating dances. The energetic twittering of birds and the busy hum of insects accent the pervasive sense of stillness.
Each villa features a verandah where delicious meals, prepared by a full-time cook who is an expert at Balinese, Indonesian, Thai, and Western dishes, are served. You could easily spend an entire afternoon simply sipping tea and nibbling on exotic fruits and crunchy Indonesian snacks, rousing yourself with regret only when the sun goes down.
It would take an extraordinarily lovely interior to match such serenity, a feat Murni has managed to accomplish. Each villa is adorned with graceful furniture of bamboo, rattan, and coconut wood; quilted bedspreads sewn by local artisans; exceptional textiles and Balinese objets d’art, all creating a peaceful setting.
Guests may be surprised to learn that these lovely accommodations are secondary to the property’s artistic grounds. As one international visitor observed, “Strangely, the Balinese seem to start on the landscaping first and then build the buildings — the reverse of most other nations.” Indeed, the grounds have received at least as much attention as the primary buildings. Luminous ferns, a fast-growing rubber tree, and fragrant cempaka trees (whimsically described as ‘mini-magnolias’) are among the additions to the original greenery.
Two traditional rice barns, which look like thatched triangles on stilts, invite closer inspection by curious visitors. Another small building, adorned with nine posts, appears to be a simple residence or storage area. It is actually much more: this is a bale dangin, a traditional structure used for Balinese ceremonies such as weddings and tooth-filings. The construction is governed by precise rules prescribed by Balinese religion and ritual. The Balinese believe that he who follows these rules will prosper, while much ill will befall those who ignore them.
A bale dangin is designed using the measurements of the owner’s body, so Murni herself was carefully measured for this bale. What matters is not actual size, but proportion. Key anatomical lengths include the distance between the tips of each middle finger when the arms are stretched out wide, and the length and width of the feet. Once designed, the bale must face Bali’s sacred mountain, with its posts erected in clockwise order.
Guests may overlook the spiritual significance of the bale, but are likely to appreciate the Buddhas and other statuary found throughout the gardens. Bali is not a Buddhist island — its residents are almost entirely Hindu. However, there is a close historical link between Buddhism and Hinduism, particularly in the way the latter is practiced in Bali, and many tranquil Buddhas dot the island. Murni loves the artistry inherent in both Buddha statues and stone carvings and has collected 33 (a magical number for the Balinese) stone Buddhas that meet her precise standards. She has also collected and placed a series of mysterious stones from other Indonesian islands. Some are funereal stones from Sumba, while others are uncarved Javanese stones whose original purpose has been lost over time. Experts consulted by Murni cannot explain them; she herself thinks that they may have once been boundary markers.
Also gracing the grounds is an ‘infinity pool,’ nestled against the step of one of the rice terraces. At the far edge, the water cascades off the edge of the terrace to the step below. Viewed from above, it seems as if the water ends in mid-air. Mere humans might hesitate to take a dip here, for it looks as if it must be intended as a bathing spot for gods and goddesses.
The pool was most definitely designed with mortals in mind, though. At one end is a small ledge, thoughtfully built so that those of short stature (like Murni herself) can immerse themselves in the water and enjoy the view while sipping a drink amid the tranquility. It’s enough to make those gods and goddesses quite envious.
Carol Walker Murni's Villas, Murni's Warung, Murni's Warung Shop and Kunang-Kunang Shops, Ubud. Tel: (62) 361 972146, Fax: (62) 361 972146, (62) 361 975282
Carol Walker lived in Jakarta, Indonesia for seven years where she took advantage of her proximity to Bali to visit Ubud often.
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