Material: Cotton, mica
Style: Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia
Size: Length 103 cm, Width 70 cm
Order Number: T98

South Sumatra has one of the most splendid and diverse textile traditions in Indonesia. The Paminggir people, who date back to the early 15th century,  were strictly hierarchical. Status was displayed by ownership and use of certain textiles. They practised ancestor worship.

Tapis are long, tubular skirts worn by Paminggir women on special occasions, especially weddings. They show the wearer’s status and wealth.

The tapis is a large rectangle made of two or more panels sewn together into a tube and elaborately embroidered. There are horizontal stripes. The embroidery of its major design features distinguishes it from women’s sarongs elsewhere in Indonesia. Sequins, mica or small mirrors and metallic threads further decorate the piece.

According to Claire and Steven Wilbur in Southeast Asian Textiles (page 157) they are no longer produced, and are rare and valuable.

Southeast Asian Textiles, Claire & Steve Wilbur, Shiffer Publishing, 2003.

19th – early 20th century.

Map of Sumatra.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 1. Antique Sumatran Textile: Tapis Kaca appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton, shells
Style: Tanimbar, Indonesia
Size: Length 429 cm, Width 19.5 cm
Order Number: MHSATL2

The Tanimbar Islands are located in the South Moluccas and comprise over 60 islands which are 135 miles long and 70 miles wide. They depend on boats as their main transport.

The cawat is a long narrow loincloth and an important item of clothing.

Generally dark colours are characteristic of Tanimbar cloths, plain black or blue indigo loincloths. There may be ikat bands of ornamentation at the ends. Nassa shells are used as decoration.

19th – early 20th century.

Map of Tanimbar.

19th – early 20th century.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 10. Antique Tanimbar Loincloth 2 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 43 cm, Width 23 cm
Order Number: MHSBL5

Lamak are small embroidered cloths hung vertically over the family altar and outdoor shrines during ceremonies. The average size is 57 cm long and 20 cm wide.

The actual size is according to the space they are intended to occupy.

Balinese story cloths – there are several types – come from either Jembrana in west Bali or Buleleng in north Bali. The greatest number come from Jembrana in and around the capital city of Negara.

Used as offerings they usually depict a figure or figures taken from the traditional myths, stories and Ramayana or Mahabharata epics, but they are sometimes creative, and contain variations on the standard colours and scene arrangements. Sometimes they place characters from different stories on the same cloth, even mixing Ramayana and Mahabharata characters, but for the most part they are conventional.

Some were made between 1920 and 1929, but most were done between 1940 and 1995. Some of the  oldest Negara embroideries have names on them in Balinese script and muted colours, such as tans and browns and feature the Ramayana rather than Mahabharata characters.

Cloths from Buleleng tend to be larger ider-ider size, about 255 cm long and 100, and feature Mahabharata characters. The stitching is finer and intricate and silk is sometimes used: bright colours, such as green, pink, orange and purple. They are more decorated than Negara pieces with bright sequins and can be similar to paintings.

The designs and embroidery are simple. The base cloth is white cotton and the stitching is coloured cotton threads. There are some silk ones made in north Bali and some are decorated with sequins or mirrored glass.

The character Arjuno is written on the top.

Arjuno or Arjuna  is a protagonist in the Mahabharata. He is the third of five Panadawa brothers. In the Mahabharata War Arjuna was one of the main warriors from the Pandava side and killed many opponents. Before the beginning of the war, his mentor Krishna gave him supreme knowledge of the Bhagavad Gita to overcome his moral dilemmas.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 11. Balinese Lamak 5 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 57 cm, Width 20 cm
Order Number: MHSBL6

Lamak are small embroidered cloths hung vertically over the family altar and outdoor shrines during ceremonies. The average size is 57 cm long and 20 cm wide.

The actual size is according to the space they are intended to occupy.

Balinese story cloths – there are several types – come from either Jembrana in west Bali or Buleleng in north Bali. The greatest number come from Jembrana in and around the capital city of Negara.

Used as offerings they usually depict a figure or figures taken from the traditional myths, stories and Ramayana or Mahabharata epics, but they are sometimes creative, and contain variations on the standard colours and scene arrangements. Sometimes they place characters from different stories on the same cloth, even mixing Ramayana and Mahabharata characters, but for the most part they are conventional.

Some were made between 1920 and 1929, but most were done between 1940 and 1995. Some of the  oldest Negara embroideries have names on them in Balinese script and muted colours, such as tans and browns and feature the Ramayana rather than Mahabharata characters.

Cloths from Buleleng tend to be larger ider-ider size, about 255 cm long and 100, and feature Mahabharata characters. The stitching is finer and intricate and silk is sometimes used: bright colours, such as green, pink, orange and purple. They are more decorated than Negara pieces with bright sequins and can be similar to paintings.

The designs and embroidery are simple. The base cloth is white cotton and the stitching is coloured cotton threads. There are some silk ones made in north Bali and some are decorated with sequins or mirrored glass.

The character the clown Merdah is written on the top.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 12. Balinese Lamak 6 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 44 cm, Width 21 cm
Order Number: MHSBL7

Lamak are small embroidered cloths hung vertically over the family altar and outdoor shrines during ceremonies. The average size is 57 cm long and 20 cm wide.

The actual size is according to the space they are intended to occupy.

Balinese story cloths – there are several types – come from either Jembrana in west Bali or Buleleng in north Bali. The greatest number come from Jembrana in and around the capital city of Negara.

Used as offerings they usually depict a figure or figures taken from the traditional myths, stories and Ramayana or Mahabharata epics, but they are sometimes creative, and contain variations on the standard colours and scene arrangements. Sometimes they place characters from different stories on the same cloth, even mixing Ramayana and Mahabharata characters, but for the most part they are conventional.

Some were made between 1920 and 1929, but most were done between 1940 and 1995. Some of the  oldest Negara embroideries have names on them in Balinese script and muted colours, such as tans and browns and feature the Ramayana rather than Mahabharata characters.

Cloths from Buleleng tend to be larger ider-ider size, about 255 cm long and 100, and feature Mahabharata characters. The stitching is finer and intricate and silk is sometimes used: bright colours, such as green, pink, orange and purple. They are more decorated than Negara pieces with bright sequins and can be similar to paintings.

The designs and embroidery are simple. The base cloth is white cotton and the stitching is coloured cotton threads. There are some silk ones made in north Bali and some are decorated with sequins or mirrored glass.

Adwjsuwari (?) is written on the top.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 13. Balinese Lamak 7 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 36 cm, Width 21 cm
Order Number: MHSBL8

Lamak are small embroidered cloths hung vertically over the family altar and outdoor shrines during ceremonies. The average size is 57 cm long and 20 cm wide.

The actual size is according to the space they are intended to occupy.

Balinese story cloths – there are several types – come from either Jembrana in west Bali or Buleleng in north Bali. The greatest number come from Jembrana in and around the capital city of Negara.

Used as offerings they usually depict a figure or figures taken from the traditional myths, stories and Ramayana or Mahabharata epics, but they are sometimes creative, and contain variations on the standard colours and scene arrangements. Sometimes they place characters from different stories on the same cloth, even mixing Ramayana and Mahabharata characters, but for the most part they are conventional.

Some were made between 1920 and 1929, but most were done between 1940 and 1995. Some of the  oldest Negara embroideries have names on them in Balinese script and muted colours, such as tans and browns and feature the Ramayana rather than Mahabharata characters.

Cloths from Buleleng tend to be larger ider-ider size, about 255 cm long and 100, and feature Mahabharata characters. The stitching is finer and intricate and silk is sometimes used: bright colours, such as green, pink, orange and purple. They are more decorated than Negara pieces with bright sequins and can be similar to paintings.

The designs and embroidery are simple. The base cloth is white cotton and the stitching is coloured cotton threads. There are some silk ones made in north Bali and some are decorated with sequins or mirrored glass.

Maderi is written on the top. Madri is a character in the Mahabharata. She was the princess of the Madra Kingdom and the second wife of Pandu, the king of the Kuru Kingdom. Madri, with the assistance of her co-wife Kunti, invoked the twin deities Nasatya and Darsa, and gave birth to the youngest Pandawas — the twin brothers Nakula and Sahadewa.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 14. Balinese Lamak 8 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 44 cm, Width 21 cm
Order Number: MHSBL9

Lamak are small embroidered cloths hung vertically over the family altar and outdoor shrines during ceremonies. The average size is 57 cm long and 20 cm wide.

The actual size is according to the space they are intended to occupy.

Balinese story cloths – there are several types – come from either Jembrana in west Bali or Buleleng in north Bali. The greatest number come from Jembrana in and around the capital city of Negara.

Used as offerings they usually depict a figure or figures taken from the traditional myths, stories and Ramayana or Mahabharata epics, but they are sometimes creative, and contain variations on the standard colours and scene arrangements. Sometimes they place characters from different stories on the same cloth, even mixing Ramayana and Mahabharata characters, but for the most part they are conventional.

Some were made between 1920 and 1929, but most were done between 1940 and 1995. Some of the  oldest Negara embroideries have names on them in Balinese script and muted colours, such as tans and browns and feature the Ramayana rather than Mahabharata characters.

Cloths from Buleleng tend to be larger ider-ider size, about 255 cm long and 100, and feature Mahabharata characters. The stitching is finer and intricate and silk is sometimes used: bright colours, such as green, pink, orange and purple. They are more decorated than Negara pieces with bright sequins and can be similar to paintings.

The designs and embroidery are simple. The base cloth is white cotton and the stitching is coloured cotton threads. There are some silk ones made in north Bali and some are decorated with sequins or mirrored glass.

Dewi Sito is written on the top.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 15. Balinese Lamak 9 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 55 cm, Width 20 cm
Order Number: MHSBL10

Lamak are small embroidered cloths hung vertically over the family altar and outdoor shrines during ceremonies. The average size is 57 cm long and 20 cm wide.

The actual size is according to the space they are intended to occupy.

Balinese story cloths – there are several types – come from either Jembrana in west Bali or Buleleng in north Bali. The greatest number come from Jembrana in and around the capital city of Negara.

Used as offerings they usually depict a figure or figures taken from the traditional myths, stories and Ramayana or Mahabharata epics, but they are sometimes creative, and contain variations on the standard colours and scene arrangements. Sometimes they place characters from different stories on the same cloth, even mixing Ramayana and Mahabharata characters, but for the most part they are conventional.

Some were made between 1920 and 1929, but most were done between 1940 and 1995. Some of the  oldest Negara embroideries have names on them in Balinese script and muted colours, such as tans and browns and feature the Ramayana rather than Mahabharata characters.

Cloths from Buleleng tend to be larger ider-ider size, about 255 cm long and 100, and feature Mahabharata characters. The stitching is finer and intricate and silk is sometimes used: bright colours, such as green, pink, orange and purple. They are more decorated than Negara pieces with bright sequins and can be similar to paintings.

The designs and embroidery are simple. The base cloth is white cotton and the stitching is coloured cotton threads. There are some silk ones made in north Bali and some are decorated with sequins or mirrored glass.

Dewi Sinto is written on the top.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 16. Balinese Lamak 10 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 44 cm, Width 21 cm
Order Number: MHSBUU1

Umbul-umbul are pennants attached to the top of very long, thin, curved bamboo poles at the entrances of villages and temples when ceremonies are going on.

They are usually plain white or yellow. They often have a single elaborately embroidered naga which seems to writhe in the wind.

The naga or dragon is a semi-divine animal. He wears a crown on his head and always has. along, protruding, flaming tongue. They reign supreme in the underworld and are famous for their wisdom and magical powers. They give protection.

They have their own names and wives.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

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The post 17. Balinese Umbul-Umbul appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 281 cm, Width 30 cm
Order Number: MHSBII1

Ider-Ider  are long narrow cloths hung horizontally from the eaves of temples and other buildings.

The average height is 11 cm and 254 cm long.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 18. Balinese Ider-Ider 1 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 113 cm, Width 86 cm
Order Number: MHSBT01

The most spectacular of the Balinese embroideries are tabing. It’s a complete composition in itself and decorates Hindu temples and other buildings.

The scenes may be invented but based on the Mahabharata. or Ramayana epics.

They are rectangular or square and the average width is 30 cm and 60 cm long.

The name of god Wisnu in on the cloth.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

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The post 19. Balinese Tabing 1 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton, natural dyes
Style: Nggela region, Flores
Size: Length 153 cm, Width 149 cm
Order Number: MHSAFTS1

Flores is a long narrow island, with central mountains, and 12 ethnic societies. It was named by the Portuguese in the early 16th century after the flowers on the east coast. Their jewelry is extravagant.

Flores has fifteen active and ten dormant volcanoes About 1.8 million people live on the island, isolated from one another. This resulted in numerous distinct cultural groups weaving different cloths for ceremonial and everyday use.

The island is a bridge between central Indonesia and the old textile traditions of the small islands to the east. Warp-ikat tying and dying was the main means of textile patterning in east Flores and is highly intricate.

Nggela is a Lio village on the south cast of the Ende Regency. Weaving in Ende Regency only takes place in villages in or near the south coast. In the higher areas of the interior, weaving was and is forbidden by traditional law.

Nggela is renowned for its weaving and elaborate cycle of annual ceremonies. The Lio people probably settled in the area at the end of the 16th century and brought with them their customary laws and ikat weaving technology.

The 19th century was an unstable period with volcanic eruptions and inter-village warfare. The community may have become inward looking and the noblewomen weavers may have ignored outside influences. Most important textiles were made in this period.

Giving gifts takes place at life cycle rituals. ‘Male’ gifts are gold, cattle and money. ‘Female’ gifts are textiles and rice. There were at least 33 types of cloth with different designs indicating a high level of female artistic skill. Ikat weaving was intimately connected with the values of their ancestors. Cloths were also used as currency.

There was much use of red morinda dyes by aristocratic weavers, who were mature post-menopausal women. The patterns, as in this tube sarong, were inspired by imported Indian patola trade cloths. The Dutch imported them, especially in the 17th century, to reward support from the indigenous elite. The Dutch East India Company had a base near Ende for exporting cinnamon.

Prestigious sarongs had geometric or floral motifs.

When a boy or girl was 3 years old, a ceremony was performed and they were given their first sarong. Ikat sarongs were worn by women. Striped non-ikat sarongs were worn by men.

The sarongs were always made of three panels. The two end panels (gha’i) are identical. The central panel (oné) is more variable. 

19th  century.

Map of Flores.

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The post 2. Antique Flores Tube Sarong 1 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 247 cm, Width 26.5 cm
Order Number: MHSBII2

Ider-Ider  are long narrow cloths hung horizontally from the eaves of temples and other buildings.

The average height is 11 cm and 254 cm long.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 20. Balinese Ider-Ider 2 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 137 cm, Width 90 cm
Order Number: MHSBT02

The most spectacular of the Balinese embroideries are tabing. It’s a complete composition in itself and decorates Hindu temples and other buildings.

The scenes may be invented but based on the Mahabharata. or Ramayana epics.

They are rectangular or square and the average width is 30 cm and 60 cm long.

The names of Twalen and Merdah are on the cloth.

Twalen is a member of the pantheon of gods and demi-gods. He is a clown in Balinese stories. However, he is older and more powerful than all the Hindu gods, being really the elder brother of Siva. He is much revered in Bali. Merdah is his younger sidekick. His counterpart in Java is  Semar.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

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The post 21. Balinese Tabing 2 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 264 cm, Width 28 cm
Order Number: MHSBII3

Ider-Ider  are long narrow cloths hung horizontally from the eaves of temples and other buildings.

The average height is 11 cm and 254 cm long.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 22. Balinese Ider-Ider 3 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style:  Belu, Timor, Indonesia
Size: Length 152 cm, Width 57 cm
Order Number: MHSTTS1

Timor is at the far east of Indonesia.  It has 28 linguistic groups.

The Dutch and Portuguese competed for its resources, including sandalwood, from the mid-1600s until 1913, when they resolved their dispute by dividing the island equally.

Textiles have always been traded across Timor as wealth and for gift exchanges during ceremonies. Patterns indicate identity, relationships and social status. Timorese weavers are particularly skilful.

Early – mid 20th century.

Map of Timor.

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The post 23. Timor Tube Sarong 1 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 209 cm, Width 25 cm
Order Number: MHSBII4

Ider-Ider  are long narrow cloths hung horizontally from the eaves of temples and other buildings.

The average height is 11 cm and 254 cm long.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 24. Balinese Ider-Ider 4 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Timor, Indonesia
Size: Length 138 cm, Width 56 cm
Order Number: MHSTTS2

Timor is at the far east of Indonesia.  It has 28 linguistic groups.

The Dutch and Portuguese competed for its resources, including sandalwood, from the mid-1600s until 1913, when they resolved their dispute by dividing the island equally.

Textiles have always been traded across Timor as wealth and for gift exchanges during ceremonies. Patterns indicate identity, relationships and social status. Timorese weavers are particularly skilful.

Early – mid 20th century.

Map of Timor.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 25. Timor Tube Sarong 2 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Negara, Bali, Indonesia
Size: Length 300 cm, Width 25 cm
Order Number: MHSBII5

Ider-Ider  are long narrow cloths hung horizontally from the eaves of temples and other buildings.

The average height is 11 cm and 254 cm long.

Mid 20th century.

Map of Bali.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 26. Balinese Ider-Ider 5 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Cotton
Style: Timor, Indonesia
Size: Length 220 cm (not including fringe), Width 110 cm
Order Number: MHSTTSB1

Timor is at the far east of Indonesia.  It has 28 linguistic groups.

The Dutch and Portuguese competed for its resources, including sandalwood, from the mid-1600s until 1913, when they resolved their dispute by dividing the island equally.

Textiles have always been traded across Timor as wealth and for gift exchanges during ceremonies. Patterns indicate identity, relationships and social status. Timorese weavers are particularly skilful.

Textiles serve functions, such as blankets and outer garments, to provide warmth. They also use blankets for their horses. Fishermen take textiles with them when they set sail in search of fish.

Blankets were also made and reserved for the ruler’s horses.

Early – mid 20th century.

Map of Timor.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post 27. Timor Selimut Blanket 1 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.