Material: Silver
Style: Cambodia
Size: Height 5 cm, Length 6 cm, Width 3.5 cm
Order Number: MHSACHLCNR1

Silver objects have been found in Cambodia dating back 500 years. The Royal capital was in Udong from the 15th to the 19^th century.  In 1866 King Norodom  moved the capital to Phnom Penh. Some master gold and silversmiths moved from Udong with the court and occupied quarters not far from the Royal Palace. In the early 20th century there were also skilled silversmiths in Battambang.

There were early foreign accounts of silver in Cambodia. Chinese records of Kaing T’ai and Chu Ying (3 AD) said  ‘gold and silver were used for making utensils and decorated … ‘

In the 13th century, Zhou Daguan, a Chinese emissary who lived almost a year in Angkor between 1296 and 1297, says ‘Cambodian silversmiths are experts in relief work.’  He went on to say, ‘Every person dining in the houses of nobles or rich people is given silver plates, and sometimes even gold ones … Then came other girls carrying gold and silver vessels from the palace and a whole galaxy of ornaments, of very special design, the uses of which were strange to me.’

Bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat, Bayon and Banteay Chhmar temples (12th century) depict people carrying richly decorated objects which look similar to silver pedestal-dishes produced by silversmiths in Koh Chen, Udong.

Zhou Daguan wrote, ‘No gold or silver is found in this country, to my knowledge, most in demand are Chinese gold and silver.’ In the 16th and 17th centuries,  there were European traders  and Portuguese advisers to the court.  Portugal and Spanish traders  imported silver from Mexico via the Philippines to Cambodia. In 1604 the Spanish priest Gabriel Quiroga de San Antonio mentioned the abundance of gold, silver and precious gems.  A considerable amount of silver was imported to Southeast Asia from China and Japan.

There was surface silver mining in Bo Sup Trup in Cambodia since at least 1877 and underground mining from 1905 until 1911.

Thomas Wallace Knox, an Englishman who traveled throughout Southeast Asian countries in the late 19th century, mentioned precious objects that he saw in the house of the Siem Reap governor in 1871 after being entertained to dinner, ‘The Governor exhibited his gold betel boxes and other paraphernalia. He told us that all were made by a Cambodian goldsmith in Siemrap (sic) from the gold and silver coins of Hue, the capital of Annam, of entirely pure metal, and they certainly were very elegant in design and finish. We most admired the cigar case. The other articles were a large dish which contained the ‘kit’, a gold betel-leaf and lime holder; a small gold tobacco-box; a silver cup, with cigars and little silver box, made in the form of a fish, containing a perfumed ointment, used by the native noblemen to anoint their lips and nostrils.’

Silver repoussé boxes were made to contain lime, one of the ingredients for betel chewing, and cosmetics. They usually have animal and plant motifs. Betel chewing was a way of life among Asian kings, aristocrats and the common people, socially and ceremonially, such as at betrothals, weddings, Buddhist monk ordinations, death, and oaths of allegiance to the monarch, and the formation of a legal contract. Offering betel was a gesture of hospitality and most families kept a betel set in their home.

A betel set comprised a small tray with a tall rim, holding a betel leaf holder, boxes to keep the areca nut, cloves, tobacco and spices, a cutter to cut the fresh areca nut, a lime container, a spatula for the lime, a spittoon, and sometimes a small container for bees’ wax to smooth on the lips as balm. Older people wit no teeth smashed the areca nut in a cylindrical mortar and pestle, so that it could be sucked rather than chewed. Wealthy families’ sets were made of gold, silver or bronze, while poorer people had lacquerware or wood.

Silver animals, usually crouching, are often astrological and mythological creatures and birds. There were kneeling elephants with upturned trunks, reclining deer, chickens, turtles, quails, geese, tigers, rabbits and lions. Paired birds were symbols of fidelity and rabbits were symbols of fertility. There were also fruits, such as mangosteens, pumpkins, and clam shells. Uniquely Cambodian was the lime container in the shape of a gourd decorated with flowers.

The boxes were made in two parts with the cover being the top of the animal. The join is hardly visible and it looks like one piece. 

Silver is expensive, so only rich and elites could afford a complete set of silver betel utensils. Gold sets were reserved for the King and the Royal Palace. Commoners used boxes of brass and copper. Pure silver is usually considered too soft and is alloyed with another metal, such as copper, to make it more durable. Sterling silver is 925 parts silver to 75 parts copper and it’s the copper that oxidises and tarnishes.

Silver animal boxes were given as wedding gifts and so were treated as family heirlooms. They were also given on special occasions, such as a graduation, promotion or anniversary. Some were kept on the family altar, for example, an elephant holding a lotus to contain candles or incense sticks.

In Cambodia, as well as Thailand, the year was symbolised by a particular animal from a list of 12, so if you were born in the year of the tiger, you may be given a present of a silver box in the shape of a tiger. The cycle begins with the Year of the Rat.  It’s believed the classification came from the Middle East, adopted by India in the 2nd or 3rd millennium BC, going to China in the 1st century BC, from China to Vietnam and then Cambodia. The earliest Cambodian inscription mentioning the 12-year animal cycle was in 992 AD found in Angkhor Thom in the late 13th century.  The animal year of one’s birth  indicate a person’s personality and give a guide to good marriage partner, for example, a tiger and snake are not a good fit.

The astrological animals were the most popular silver boxes. Every one, apart from the dragon and rat are found in Cambodia. They are the rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig.

Before 1945 silver coins, mostly French Indo-Chinese ‘piastre de commerce’, which were minted from 1885 to 1928 and again from 1931, and Chinese sycee (silver ingot, which looked like a shoe) money were used as the raw material. Coins from China, Mexico, Japan and the United States were also used.

Silverwork takes great concentration and as long as 5 years to master. Boxes were made by hand. Moulds were not used. Sometimes one person formed the animal shape and another finished and polished it. Some pieces are easier to make than others. Deer are very difficult. Semi-precious stones or glass were occasionally added, for example, to augment the eyes or chest. Pieces were not normally signed.

When tobacco was introduced to Cambodia, people, especially city dwellers, abandoned betel-chewing and turned to cigarettes. In the early decades of the 20th century, the silver betel set as symbol of prestige was replaced by tobacco and cigar boxes. Only elderly people, mostly women, and usually in the countryside, continued to chew it.

His Majesty King Norodom Sihanouk of Cambodia gave silver animals as diplomatic gifts in the 1950s and 1960s to foreign guests and to decorate State residences, including the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh.

This small Cambodian lime box is in the shape of a rabbit. The lid fits tightly over the bottom half.  Rabbits are symbols of longevity and associated with the moon. It is rare among silver boxes. Most are very small and were used as wax or salve containers for the lips.

The moon-hare myth came from India. The god Indra was incarnated as a rabbit. He sacrificed himself to save an ascetic. His reward was to live on the moon, where he pound herbs, such as cinnamon twigs, to make the elixir of life.

From 1914 – mid 20th century.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post Antique Cambodian Lime Container 1 – Rabbit appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Silver
Style: Cambodia
Size: Height 3.5 cm, Length 5.5 cm, Width 3 cm
Order Number: MHSACHLCNR2

Silver objects have been found in Cambodia dating back 500 years. The Royal capital was in Udong from the 15th to the 19^th century.  In 1866 King Norodom  moved the capital to Phnom Penh. Some master gold and silversmiths moved from Udong with the court and occupied quarters not far from the Royal Palace. In the early 20th century there were also skilled silversmiths in Battambang.

There were early foreign accounts of silver in Cambodia. Chinese records of Kaing T’ai and Chu Ying (3 AD) said  ‘gold and silver were used for making utensils and decorated … ‘

In the 13th century, Zhou Daguan, a Chinese emissary who lived almost a year in Angkor between 1296 and 1297, says ‘Cambodian silversmiths are experts in relief work.’  He went on to say, ‘Every person dining in the houses of nobles or rich people is given silver plates, and sometimes even gold ones … Then came other girls carrying gold and silver vessels from the palace and a whole galaxy of ornaments, of very special design, the uses of which were strange to me.’

Bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat, Bayon and Banteay Chhmar temples (12th century) depict people carrying richly decorated objects which look similar to silver pedestal-dishes produced by silversmiths in Koh Chen, Udong.

Zhou Daguan wrote, ‘No gold or silver is found in this country, to my knowledge, most in demand are Chinese gold and silver.’ In the 16th and 17th centuries,  there were European traders  and Portuguese advisers to the court.  Portugal and Spanish traders  imported silver from Mexico via the Philippines to Cambodia. In 1604 the Spanish priest Gabriel Quiroga de San Antonio mentioned the abundance of gold, silver and precious gems.  A considerable amount of silver was imported to Southeast Asia from China and Japan.

There was surface silver mining in Bo Sup Trup in Cambodia since at least 1877 and underground mining from 1905 until 1911.

Thomas Wallace Knox, an Englishman who traveled throughout Southeast Asian countries in the late 19th century, mentioned precious objects that he saw in the house of the Siem Reap governor in 1871 after being entertained to dinner, ‘The Governor exhibited his gold betel boxes and other paraphernalia. He told us that all were made by a Cambodian goldsmith in Siemrap (sic) from the gold and silver coins of Hue, the capital of Annam, of entirely pure metal, and they certainly were very elegant in design and finish. We most admired the cigar case. The other articles were a large dish which contained the ‘kit’, a gold betel-leaf and lime holder; a small gold tobacco-box; a silver cup, with cigars and little silver box, made in the form of a fish, containing a perfumed ointment, used by the native noblemen to anoint their lips and nostrils.’

Silver repoussé boxes were made to contain lime, one of the ingredients for betel chewing, and cosmetics. They usually have animal and plant motifs. Betel chewing was a way of life among Asian kings, aristocrats and the common people, socially and ceremonially, such as at betrothals, weddings, Buddhist monk ordinations, death, and oaths of allegiance to the monarch, and the formation of a legal contract. Offering betel was a gesture of hospitality and most families kept a betel set in their home.

A betel set comprised a small tray with a tall rim, holding a betel leaf holder, boxes to keep the areca nut, cloves, tobacco and spices, a cutter to cut the fresh areca nut, a lime container, a spatula for the lime, a spittoon, and sometimes a small container for bees’ wax to smooth on the lips as balm. Older people wit no teeth smashed the areca nut in a cylindrical mortar and pestle, so that it could be sucked rather than chewed. Wealthy families’ sets were made of gold, silver or bronze, while poorer people had lacquerware or wood.

Silver animals, usually crouching, are often astrological and mythological creatures and birds. There were kneeling elephants with upturned trunks, reclining deer, chickens, turtles, quails, geese, tigers, rabbits and lions. Paired birds were symbols of fidelity and rabbits were symbols of fertility. There were also fruits, such as mangosteens, pumpkins, and clam shells. Uniquely Cambodian was the lime container in the shape of a gourd decorated with flowers.

The boxes were made in two parts with the cover being the top of the animal. The join is hardly visible and it looks like one piece. 

Silver is expensive, so only rich and elites could afford a complete set of silver betel utensils. Gold sets were reserved for the King and the Royal Palace. Commoners used boxes of brass and copper. Pure silver is usually considered too soft and is alloyed with another metal, such as copper, to make it more durable. Sterling silver is 925 parts silver to 75 parts copper and it’s the copper that oxidises and tarnishes.

Silver animal boxes were given as wedding gifts and so were treated as family heirlooms. They were also given on special occasions, such as a graduation, promotion or anniversary. Some were kept on the family altar, for example, an elephant holding a lotus to contain candles or incense sticks.

In Cambodia, as well as Thailand, the year was symbolised by a particular animal from a list of 12, so if you were born in the year of the tiger, you may be given a present of a silver box in the shape of a tiger. The cycle begins with the Year of the Rat.  It’s believed the classification came from the Middle East, adopted by India in the 2nd or 3rd millennium BC, going to China in the 1st century BC, from China to Vietnam and then Cambodia. The earliest Cambodian inscription mentioning the 12-year animal cycle was in 992 AD found in Angkhor Thom in the late 13th century.  The animal year of one’s birth  indicate a person’s personality and give a guide to good marriage partner, for example, a tiger and snake are not a good fit.

The astrological animals were the most popular silver boxes. Every one, apart from the dragon and rat are found in Cambodia. They are the rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig.

Before 1945 silver coins, mostly French Indo-Chinese ‘piastre de commerce’, which were minted from 1885 to 1928 and again from 1931, and Chinese sycee (silver ingot, which looked like a shoe) money were used as the raw material. Coins from China, Mexico, Japan and the United States were also used.

Silverwork takes great concentration and as long as 5 years to master. Boxes were made by hand. Moulds were not used. Sometimes one person formed the animal shape and another finished and polished it. Some pieces are easier to make than others. Deer are very difficult. Semi-precious stones or glass were occasionally added, for example, to augment the eyes or chest. Pieces were not normally signed.

When tobacco was introduced to Cambodia, people, especially city dwellers, abandoned betel-chewing and turned to cigarettes. In the early decades of the 20th century, the silver betel set as symbol of prestige was replaced by tobacco and cigar boxes. Only elderly people, mostly women, and usually in the countryside, continued to chew it.

His Majesty King Norodom Sihanouk of Cambodia gave silver animals as diplomatic gifts in the 1950s and 1960s to foreign guests and to decorate State residences, including the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh.

This small Cambodian lime box is in the shape of a rabbit. The lid fits tightly over the bottom half.  Rabbits are symbols of longevity and associated with the moon. It is rare among silver boxes. Most are very small and were used as wax or salve containers for the lips.

The moon-hare myth came from India. The god Indra was incarnated as a rabbit. He sacrificed himself to save an ascetic. His reward was to live on the moon, where he pound herbs, such as cinnamon twigs, to make the elixir of life.

From 1914 – mid 20th century.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post Antique Cambodian Lime Container 2 – Rabbit appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Silver
Style: Cambodia
Size: Height 4 cm, Length 5 cm, Width 3 cm
Order Number: MHSACHLCNR3

Silver objects have been found in Cambodia dating back 500 years. The Royal capital was in Udong from the 15th to the 19^th century.  In 1866 King Norodom  moved the capital to Phnom Penh. Some master gold and silversmiths moved from Udong with the court and occupied quarters not far from the Royal Palace. In the early 20th century there were also skilled silversmiths in Battambang.

There were early foreign accounts of silver in Cambodia. Chinese records of Kaing T’ai and Chu Ying (3 AD) said  ‘gold and silver were used for making utensils and decorated … ‘

In the 13th century, Zhou Daguan, a Chinese emissary who lived almost a year in Angkor between 1296 and 1297, says ‘Cambodian silversmiths are experts in relief work.’  He went on to say, ‘Every person dining in the houses of nobles or rich people is given silver plates, and sometimes even gold ones … Then came other girls carrying gold and silver vessels from the palace and a whole galaxy of ornaments, of very special design, the uses of which were strange to me.’

Bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat, Bayon and Banteay Chhmar temples (12th century) depict people carrying richly decorated objects which look similar to silver pedestal-dishes produced by silversmiths in Koh Chen, Udong.

Zhou Daguan wrote, ‘No gold or silver is found in this country, to my knowledge, most in demand are Chinese gold and silver.’ In the 16th and 17th centuries,  there were European traders  and Portuguese advisers to the court.  Portugal and Spanish traders  imported silver from Mexico via the Philippines to Cambodia. In 1604 the Spanish priest Gabriel Quiroga de San Antonio mentioned the abundance of gold, silver and precious gems.  A considerable amount of silver was imported to Southeast Asia from China and Japan.

There was surface silver mining in Bo Sup Trup in Cambodia since at least 1877 and underground mining from 1905 until 1911.

Thomas Wallace Knox, an Englishman who traveled throughout Southeast Asian countries in the late 19th century, mentioned precious objects that he saw in the house of the Siem Reap governor in 1871 after being entertained to dinner, ‘The Governor exhibited his gold betel boxes and other paraphernalia. He told us that all were made by a Cambodian goldsmith in Siemrap (sic) from the gold and silver coins of Hue, the capital of Annam, of entirely pure metal, and they certainly were very elegant in design and finish. We most admired the cigar case. The other articles were a large dish which contained the ‘kit’, a gold betel-leaf and lime holder; a small gold tobacco-box; a silver cup, with cigars and little silver box, made in the form of a fish, containing a perfumed ointment, used by the native noblemen to anoint their lips and nostrils.’

Silver repoussé boxes were made to contain lime, one of the ingredients for betel chewing, and cosmetics. They usually have animal and plant motifs. Betel chewing was a way of life among Asian kings, aristocrats and the common people, socially and ceremonially, such as at betrothals, weddings, Buddhist monk ordinations, death, and oaths of allegiance to the monarch, and the formation of a legal contract. Offering betel was a gesture of hospitality and most families kept a betel set in their home.

A betel set comprised a small tray with a tall rim, holding a betel leaf holder, boxes to keep the areca nut, cloves, tobacco and spices, a cutter to cut the fresh areca nut, a lime container, a spatula for the lime, a spittoon, and sometimes a small container for bees’ wax to smooth on the lips as balm. Older people wit no teeth smashed the areca nut in a cylindrical mortar and pestle, so that it could be sucked rather than chewed. Wealthy families’ sets were made of gold, silver or bronze, while poorer people had lacquerware or wood.

Silver animals, usually crouching, are often astrological and mythological creatures and birds. There were kneeling elephants with upturned trunks, reclining deer, chickens, turtles, quails, geese, tigers, rabbits and lions. Paired birds were symbols of fidelity and rabbits were symbols of fertility. There were also fruits, such as mangosteens, pumpkins, and clam shells. Uniquely Cambodian was the lime container in the shape of a gourd decorated with flowers.

The boxes were made in two parts with the cover being the top of the animal. The join is hardly visible and it looks like one piece. 

Silver is expensive, so only rich and elites could afford a complete set of silver betel utensils. Gold sets were reserved for the King and the Royal Palace. Commoners used boxes of brass and copper. Pure silver is usually considered too soft and is alloyed with another metal, such as copper, to make it more durable. Sterling silver is 925 parts silver to 75 parts copper and it’s the copper that oxidises and tarnishes.

Silver animal boxes were given as wedding gifts and so were treated as family heirlooms. They were also given on special occasions, such as a graduation, promotion or anniversary. Some were kept on the family altar, for example, an elephant holding a lotus to contain candles or incense sticks.

In Cambodia, as well as Thailand, the year was symbolised by a particular animal from a list of 12, so if you were born in the year of the tiger, you may be given a present of a silver box in the shape of a tiger. The cycle begins with the Year of the Rat.  It’s believed the classification came from the Middle East, adopted by India in the 2nd or 3rd millennium BC, going to China in the 1st century BC, from China to Vietnam and then Cambodia. The earliest Cambodian inscription mentioning the 12-year animal cycle was in 992 AD found in Angkhor Thom in the late 13th century.  The animal year of one’s birth  indicate a person’s personality and give a guide to good marriage partner, for example, a tiger and snake are not a good fit.

The astrological animals were the most popular silver boxes. Every one, apart from the dragon and rat are found in Cambodia. They are the rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig.

Before 1945 silver coins, mostly French Indo-Chinese ‘piastre de commerce’, which were minted from 1885 to 1928 and again from 1931, and Chinese sycee (silver ingot, which looked like a shoe) money were used as the raw material. Coins from China, Mexico, Japan and the United States were also used.

Silverwork takes great concentration and as long as 5 years to master. Boxes were made by hand. Moulds were not used. Sometimes one person formed the animal shape and another finished and polished it. Some pieces are easier to make than others. Deer are very difficult. Semi-precious stones or glass were occasionally added, for example, to augment the eyes or chest. Pieces were not normally signed.

When tobacco was introduced to Cambodia, people, especially city dwellers, abandoned betel-chewing and turned to cigarettes. In the early decades of the 20th century, the silver betel set as symbol of prestige was replaced by tobacco and cigar boxes. Only elderly people, mostly women, and usually in the countryside, continued to chew it.

His Majesty King Norodom Sihanouk of Cambodia gave silver animals as diplomatic gifts in the 1950s and 1960s to foreign guests and to decorate State residences, including the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh.

This small Cambodian lime box is in the shape of a rabbit. The lid fits tightly over the bottom half.  Rabbits are symbols of longevity and associated with the moon. It is rare among silver boxes. Most are very small and were used as wax or salve containers for the lips.

The moon-hare myth came from India. The god Indra was incarnated as a rabbit. He sacrificed himself to save an ascetic. His reward was to live on the moon, where he pound herbs, such as cinnamon twigs, to make the elixir of life.

From 1914 – mid 20th century.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post Antique Cambodian Lime Container 3 – Rabbit appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Silver buckle, padded ikat belt with coloured glass
Style: Minangkabau, West Sumatra, Indonesia
Size: Buckle: length 25 cm, width 12 cm; Belt: length 70 cm, width 12.5 cm
Order Number: TACD0

The waist buckle (pending) was a part of Malay ceremonial dress and displayed the wearer’s social status, worn mostly by men, but occasionally by women, above the navel, with a cloth sash and belt to hold up the sarong, at ceremonial events, especially weddings. The back had a clasp attached to the belt and it was shaped like a lozenge, usually with pointed ends.

The buckle was made of brass, silver or gold. Royalty wore gold buckles decorated with precious stones. Rich, but non-royal people, wore silver. The rest wore brass.

The idea probably came from the Ottoman Empire, which traded with  the Sultan of Aceh and other sultans in the area.

Typically the pattern is a central circle, with surrounding  foliate motifs, all within an outer border at the edge of the buckle. The central eye may be a talisman to ward off the evil eye, the very central part resembling the pupil.

The Mingangkabau people live in the inland mountainous regions and hills and plains around Padang on the west coast of Sumatra. They claim descent from Alexander the Great. They are one of the world’s few matrilinear societies. Women inherit titles of nobility, houses and rice fields. It is also deeply Islamic.

Ceremonies are important and frequent, and magnificent ceremonial dress is worn. Islam began to spread into Sumatra in the late 13th century and the influence is seen in the arabesques and foliage.

There are many examples in Malay Silver and Gold, Courtly Splendour from Indonesia, Malayasia, Singapore, Brunei and Thailand, Michael Backman, River Books, 2024, pages 214-223.

The chapter entitled Malay Waist Buckles, Allegories of Paradise, says at page 216, ‘Almost all are chased and engraved with motifs which can be interpreted as a stylised version of Paradise. This is a new way of looking at the iconography of the Malay buckle, but it is entirely plausible. Vegetation and gardens are all redolent of light, and for many Muslims, light is an extension of God, while vegetation and gardens  – so dependent on light – are by implication an extension.’

Islam began to spread into Sumatra in the late 13th century and the influence is seen in the arabesques and foliage.

Niello was a specialty. The metalwork is very fine. The decorative patterns are cut into the front surface of the silver. The background is then cut back further, roughened and filled with a preparation of lead, copper, silver and sulphur in powder form, which melts when heated.

Polishing helps in creating a smooth surface of black and silver. Sumatran niello often has a very grey color and great sheen because there is a high silver content. Niello work was carried out in Sumatra until the early 20th century, but very little is produced now.

Impressive size and exquisite niello work make this an outstanding example of a Minangkabau man’s belt or ikek pinggang. The padded ikat belt is still attached, which is rare. One or more layered central plaques in the buckle mark the social status of the owner.

There is a similar belt and buckle in Walk in Splendour, Ceremonial Dress and the Minangkabau, UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History, 1999, (Fig 5.46, page 95).

19th century – early 20th century.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post Antique Sumatran Belt and Buckle appeared first on Murni's in Bali.

Material: Brass, niello
Style: Palembang, Sumatra, Indonesia
Size: Length 19.5 cm, Width 11 cm
Order Number: TACD3

The waist buckle (pending) was a part of Malay ceremonial dress and displayed the wearer’s social status, worn mostly by men, but occasionally by women, above the navel, with a cloth sash and belt to hold up the sarong, at ceremonial events, especially weddings. The back had a clasp attached to the belt and it was shaped like a lozenge, usually with pointed ends.

The buckle was made of brass, silver or gold. Royalty wore gold buckles decorated with precious stones. Rich, but non-royal people, wore silver. The rest wore brass.

The idea probably came from the Ottoman Empire, which traded with  the Sultan of Aceh and other sultans in the area.

Typically the pattern is a central circle, with surrounding  foliate motifs, all within an outer border at the edge of the buckle. The central eye may be a talisman to ward off the evil eye, the very central part resembling the pupil.

The Mingangkabau people live in the inland mountainous regions and hills and plains around Padang on the west coast of Sumatra. They claim descent from Alexander the Great. They are one of the world’s few matrilinear societies. Women inherit titles of nobility, houses and rice fields. It is also deeply Islamic.

Ceremonies are important and frequent, and magnificent ceremonial dress is worn. Islam began to spread into Sumatra in the late 13th century and the influence is seen in the arabesques and foliage.

There are many examples in Malay Silver and Gold, Courtly Splendour from Indonesia, Malayasia, Singapore, Brunei and Thailand, Michael Backman, River Books, 2024, pages 214-223.

The chapter entitled Malay Waist Buckles, Allegories of Paradise, says at page 216, ‘Almost all are chased and engraved with motifs which can be interpreted as a stylised version of Paradise. This is a new way of looking at the iconography of the Malay buckle, but it is entirely plausible. Vegetation and gardens are all redolent of light, and for many Muslims, light is an extension of God, while vegetation and gardens  – so dependent on light – are by implication an extension.’

Niello was a specialty. The metalwork is very fine. Niello is the process whereby decorative patterns are cut into the front surface of the silver. The black amalgam of lead, copper, silver and sulphur in powder form is fused by heating on to the silver object. The designs are added and appear in silver on the black surface. The final step is to attach the object to a lathe to turn it so that it can be cleaned.  Polishing with sandpaper  helps create a smooth surface of black and silver.

The word ‘niello’ comes from the Latin nigellus meaning ‘dark’. Nielloware is admired for its complexity  and quality.

Sumatran niello often has a very grey color and great sheen because there is a high silver content.

Niello buckles were worn by the Malays in Sumatra, the Peninsula and the Minangkabau, and were made by them too.

Niello work was carried out in Sumatra until the early 20th century, but very little is produced now.

Early 20th century.

Please ask for the price (or make an offer).

The post Antique Sumatran Belt Buckle 3 appeared first on Murni's in Bali.