Introduction

The Dutch banned cockfighting in Indonesia. The British banned cockfighting in England in 1840. The independent Indonesian government also banned it – except in Bali, but only for certain purposes. On 1 April 1971 President Suharto also declared gambling illegal, which is in line with Islamic teaching. Cockfighting is part of the Balinese way of life. The Balinese loophole gave the Balinese a lifeline.

Antique Balinese Cockfighting Spur Container. See here.

Cockfights, which in Balinese are known as tajen, meklecan or ngadu, are required at temple and purification (mecaru) ceremonies. No one knows when they started. The Tabuh Rah ritual to expel evil spirits always has a cockfight to spill the blood. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali. The blood of the loser spills on the ground, an offering to the evil spirits. Three cockfights are necessary for this purpose. Only men participate. Women do not even watch.

To the Balinese cockfighting is much more than a religious ritual. Raffles in his History of Java commented,

“their predominant passions are gaming and cockfighting. In these amusements, when at peace with the neighbouring states, all the vehemence and energy of their character and spirit is called forth and exhausted.”

Men in villages tend their roosters lovingly. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

The roosters, often of very splendid colours, are kept in wicker bamboo cages placed outside their owners’ houses. It is important that the roosters get used to the commotion of everyday life. They are trained not to be distracted by unusual sounds when they get to the all-important fight. They are fed a special diet of maize. Red pepper is pushed down their beaks to give them spirit. The birds are at their fighting peak at about three years old.

A cockfight is an offering: see the chapter entitled Balinese Offerings in Secrets of Bali.  Cockfighting is a sacred matter. The rules are written down in the ancient lontar palm books, which are village heirlooms. The umpire’s word is final. In the case of cocks dying at virtually the same time, he decides. Before the cockfight begins, a pemangku priest will present offerings to the evil spirits and also the gods. Then the serious business begins.

In pre-colonial times cockfights were normally held on market days. The ring is usually near the market in the wantilan in the centre of the village. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali. Anyone can attend. It is a noisy, busy affair. Be careful during the fight, the cocks have lethally sharp steel blades attached to their spurs. They can cut a finger off.

There are usually about nine or ten matches. It goes on for three or four hours until sunset.

The fight

Men travel to cockfights with their roosters. They sit in a circle in the wantilan or an open area. Women sell lawar (mixed vegetables and meat), grilled pork, chicken satay, snacks and colourful drinks.

Each fight is treated equally and, as soon as one fight ends, men look for a suitable match for the next. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

Antique Balinese Cockfighting Spur Container. See here.

The expert spur affixers affix the spurs. The sharp steel spurs, called taji, are single blades, about four or five inches long, tied around the leg with string. Spurs are sharpened only at eclipses and during a dark moon and should not be seen by women. The word for cockfight, tajen, comes from tajian, the taji being the blade.

Once done the cocks are placed on the ground in the middle of the ring. The timekeeper sits at a desk on the right hand corner. He pierces a coconut with a small hole and puts it in a bucket of water. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

The process is repeated. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

The coconut is now sunk three times. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

Gambling

Gambling seems to be a necessary part of the cockfight. There are two sorts of bet:

Between the principals.
Between members of the audience.

Between the principals

This bet is usually large and arranged quietly between collectives of mates, including the owner backing his own bird. The bets are even money. The umpire oversees the bet, which is the formal one, and holds the stakes. This is the larger of the two kinds of bet.

The winner takes his bet and also gets to keep the body of the beaten bird. Out of the takings about 10 per cent. is paid to the umpire and the sponsors of the fight. If there is no winner a draw is declared. Then the next fight begins.

Between members of the audience

The side betting takes place after the centre bet has been concluded. These side bets are usually small. They are between individuals, who yell and gesture to each other from their positions in the audience. The bets are always odd. The odds are 10-9, 9-8, 8-7, 7-6, 6-5, 5-4, 4-3, 3-2, and 2-1.

The gambler wanting to back the underdog, not the favourite, shouts the short-side number of the odds he wants to be given by someone else. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

The men search for a suitable partner in the audience. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

The favourite is determined by a hard-core group of experts.

The birds

The rules of the fight, the colours and the shape of the birds have been laid down for centuries.

In the past only local birds were allowed. Now, cocks from Lombok, Java and even as far afield as the Philippines. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

The real point

Geertz studied the Balinese cockfight and his essay Deep Play – Notes on the Balinese Cockfight, published in The Interpretation of Cultures, refers to the real meaning of the cockfight for the male participants. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

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