Where to Eat, Pray and Love in Ubud Page 1

Where to Eat, Pray and Love in Ubud Page 2

Follow IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER’S advice
to enjoy the setting of the famous film

The West Australian

24-25 August 2019

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Turen Gar Til Bali Lombok – Af Jens Erik Ramussen – 2001

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“Face à la gorge à Murni’s Warung: En 1974, Ni Wayan Murni ouvrait le premier restaurant d’Ubud, où elle servait un mélange de recettes occidentales et balinaises. Depuis, des generations de touristes ont savouré la qualité de sa cuisine. Face aux rochers coverts de mousse de la gorge entroite de Campuhan, les quatres étages en terrasses semblent hors de ce monde. Les petits déjeuners sont extraordinaires, et à toute heure vous apprécierez les spécialités locales, les plats végétariens, les yaourts maison, les jus de fruits et les gâteaux inoubliables.”

Guide Naturale de Bali – 2005

Murni’s Warung – Guide Naturale de Bali

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Merian Live! Bali Reisen mit Erlebnis-Garantie – 2002

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Le Guide du Routard – Indonésie – 2002 – 3

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Fodor’s Indonesia – 1999

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Cadogan Guides – Bali

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“Murni’s Warung, In-spot for a meat fix; ribs earn local raves. Under $10.”

Miami Herald, 11 September 2005

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“This three-level restaurant is an Ubud institution. The freshly baked breads are delicious, especially in a chilli club sandwich, and you can sit on the top terrace for curries, burgers, hot dogs, steaks and more. For dessert, you’ll want to stay for the cakes and the homemade yoghurt and ice cream.”

Insider’s Guide to Ubud

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Lonely Planet Guide,

Bali

“Since 1977 Murni’s Warung has been an Ubud favourite. The setting is beautiful and a four level dining room overlooks the lush river valley. Indonesian dishes, curries and Western options are available. There’s a cosy bar on the second level down. One quibble: the gift shop gets bigger every year!”

[Note from Murni: Actually, it’s since 1974]

Lonely Planet Guide, Bali 2005

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“In 1974, Ni Wayan Murni opened Ubud’s first restaurant, where she served a mix of Western and Balnese food. Since then, generations of travellers have enjoyed the quality of her cuisine. Despite increasing road traffic, the four open-air levels facing the splendid river gorge offer absolute tranquility in a totally out-of-this-world atmosphere. It’s a most pleasant place for a great healthy breakfast (Rp 45,000) or dinner (Rp 75,000). Vegetarian meals, home-made yoghurts, fantastic fruit juices, cakes, and pies are also on the MSG-free menu.”

The Natural Guide to Bali, 2005

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Murni’s Warung

“As you approach through the highly-carved Balinese doors, you know you are in a place dedicated to the finer things of life…”

One evening recently, I decided to meet up with my old friend, Renée, and dine in Ubud’s oldest restaurant; Murni’s Warung. It’s above the sacred Campuhan River, just beside the old Dutch suspension bridge, facing a spot-lit wall of tropical trees. There is a real Murni and old Asian hands know her well. I was hoping she would be there.

As you approach through the highly-carved Balinese doors, you know you are in a place dedicated to the finer things of life. We resisted the almost irresistible temptation to go into her shops, which are on either side of the doors and which house her treasures. Murni is a well-travelled collector, who brings back amazing things.

Walking past the famous cakes, and making a mental note for later, we made our way to the little-known, comfortable Lounge Bar for cocktails: a Mojitos for me (tall, minty, thirst-quenching) and a Melon Colada for Renee. This is a great place to unwind, listen to great music, perhaps meet an old friend passing through and take in some amazing art. I particularly admired the primitive stone statues from East Sumba.

We both like gardens, ponds and shrines, and the sound of running water, so, after the drinks, we made our way down to the bottom level, through the third floor, which is often used for banquets and which we’ve named The Elephant Room, because it has so many Ganeshas, the God much loved by the Balinese. I would really like to get the new bronze one, commissioned by Murni five years ago and which has just been finished. It’s almost 6 feet tall and a whopping 500 kilos. I’m saving up for the deposit.

We sat down and spotted a few famous people. I think they recognized me too!. The menu is extensive and has not only the Indonesian favourites, but also a very good selection of Western dishes. There are also a number of Thai-inspired dishes, which tend to be specials, and change daily.

I decided to go Indonesian, opting for the mini-lumpia (delicious, crisp spring rolls served with sweet and sour and peanut sauces); an excellent choice – light and tasty. Renee ordered a creamy pumpkin soup, which was nutty and full of flavour. Murni was in the restaurant, presiding lovingly over her creation. She came over, smiling, to our table and explained that the pumpkins were organically grown on her property, Murni’s Villas, in the foot-hills of Mount Batur.

For the main course, I ordered the Bebek Betutu, traditional Balinese smoked duck and Renee chose Western fare, the Chicken Dijon. This proved to be a tender, juicy chicken breast, sautéed in white wine and finished with a cream and Dijon mustard sauce, steamed green beans and honey-glazed carrots on the side. My duck was perfect – meat falling off the bone, not at all fatty like ducks in the West, steamed saffron rice, vegetable lawar and a tasty duck consommé.

I’ve forgotten to mention the small but perfectly sufficient wine list. I chose an Australian Chardonnay, which was very reasonably priced and perfect with the duck. Renee wanted to try a local tipple and went for the Brem Merah, home-made Balinese rice wine, served with a squeeze of lime. The brem was hailed as “delicious!”

A quick look at the menu confirmed that deserts were a must. Murni has always been well-known for her baked on the premises cakes and pies, but I couldn’t get past the cheese cake with fresh strawberry coulis. Tangy lime and strawberries made this the perfect finish for an already memorable meal. Renée chose the Balinese Black Rice Pudding, creamy rice cooked in coconut milk, pandanus leaf and topped with grated palm sugar. Renee loved it. And the rice really is black!

What else? Well, we returned to the Lounge Bar to complete the night with espressos, served with sweet spice and vanilla biscuits. Settled back on the sofas, who could resist a liqueur? Not us! Two Benedictines please.

Oh yes, the bill. The three-course food bill for both of us came to Rp. 201,500 before tax and service, which was very reasonable. I’ll not mention the drinks bill as we had some I haven’t told you about!

After all that feasting, we really appreciated the free transport back to our hotels and a great night’s sleep.

Hello Bali, April 2005

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ShopSmart
Bali & Lombok 2006

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All roads lead to Murni’s Warung, Mary, Martha, Murni’s Warung and Me

Bud Smith
The Times, Lombok, August – September 2007

Mary is my wife, Martha is my mistress, Murni’s Warung is a famous restaurant and I am myself. It is a long story but we all found ourselves on the island of Bali in late 2006. A spur of the moment thing, as often the best – and the worst – of things in life are. Summer is a busy time in London for a jazz singer and I was dead beat, so I proposed to my wife that we take off to Bali in October. I remembered the wonderful mushroom pizzas in the late Sixties and Mary, an interior designer, remembered the fantastic art.

Little did I know that my mistress Martha would be there. Martha is a 25 year old blonde living in Greenwich Village, a beautifully talented poet. I was singing in Soho last year and noticed a book signing in Borders right close to the club. I went in between sets, lined up, told the young poet that I was a man in a hurry, a jazz man in a hurry, had to rush and could she write something poetic. Dear Bud, Harvey Wallbanger, 10.30 in the club tonight, Martha!

Hardly had we got over our jet-lag than Mary and I made a bee line for our favourite restaurant in the whole world: Murni’s Warung in Ubud. We both love good food and drink, but even more we love good food and drink in beautiful places, where the prices are reasonable. Murni’s Warung is one of the most beautiful places on Earth! You walk in, facing you are coconut trees, palm trees and betel nut vines. Suddenly a blue-winged kingfisher glimpses by and a second later his mate. It is no surprise that the Bali Bird Club meets there keeping beady eyes out for bird and butterfly life.

The beauty is not only natural. Murni is a well-known collector of fine arts from all over Asia. At the entrance are Balinese statues, all chosen for their fine carving and fabulous expressions. On the walls are antique shadow puppets: the tree of life, which starts and closes the Balinese shadow puppet play, and the expressive clowns, who explain the story to the audience. They are for sale and I have a fine collection of them. The restaurant is on four levels and all the rooms, and especially the Lounge Bar, are decorated with Asian textiles, tribal pieces and objets d’art. Murni is often at hand expounding on art and food in the same breath.

Mary and I went to our favourite part of the restaurant, which is on the lowest level, just above the river, which you can hear rushing by underneath. So romantic. The President of East Timor and his Australian wife were on the next table. Mary ordered the Balinese Smoked Duck, which comes with Balinese vegetables. President Gusmao leaned over and said, ‘Good choice. It’s really smoked. They don’t fry it here.’ I ordered Bali Guling, a spicy pork dish eaten at special festivals. When I’m in Bali, I can’t get enough of it, and it was especially great that evening. Jacobs Creek Chardonnay helped the food go down. President Gusmao’s wife told us it’s the most popular wine in the World.

Murni’s Warung is famous for desserts. I just love the cheesecake in a strawberry coulis – better than New York cheesecake, which is saying something – and Mary adored her Cashew Pie and ice-cream. We then went to the Lounge Bar to have a chat with Murni, who was preparing to go to San Francisco to exhibit some of her collection, and drink a couple of cocktails. They play rather good jazz in there too.

Nyoman, the bartender, discreetly handed me a note. ‘Dear Bud, Harvey Wallbanger,10.30 in the Lounge Bar tomorrow morning, Martha!’. It was the Readers and Writers Festival in Ubud and Martha was launching her latest book of poetry. Nyoman smiled and said, In Bali all roads lead to Murni’s Warung!

All roads lead to Murni’s Warung

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Rough Guide, Bali

Murni’s Warung: Follow the stairs all the way down to the lowest level of this multi-tiered restaurant and you’ll approach the setting for it’s built into the wall of the steep-sided Wos River valley. This restaurant is an Ubud institution and serves curries, home-made soups and Indonesian specialties as well as serving things, such as strawberry cheesecake and banana caramel cake. Also free WiFi.”

Rough Guide, Bali, September 2008

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Ubud News
Ayu Intipid
Bali Advertiser, December 2007

I remember a time when you were lucky to find anything more than fried bananas on local restaurant menus. Then came Murni’s Warung. Established in the early eighties [actually 1974], Murni’s Warung was one of the first restaurants to serve a selection of international sweet dishes to appease the cake eating, chocolate-craving tourist. It was the chocolate brownies and home-made pies that served many a home-sick traveller.

Perched on the edge of the Tjampuhan suspension bridge, Murni’s Warung is run by none other than Ibu Murni. Ibu Murni is a well-known local identity, hailing from the narrow streets of Penestanan and is one of the culinary tour-de-force mothers who set the gastronomic standard of Ubud.

But it is more than that.

Murni and others in her league shaped the eating style of Ubud by adding loads of gracious Balinese hospitality and charm to their establishments. Ibu Murni still runs her world famous Murni’s Warung, in between belting it out with the local badmington team. Drop in and say hello over a piece of pie.

She loves having a chat.

Ubud News

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Bali Advertiser, 2008

You can’t visit Ubud without going to Murni’s Warung, its most romantic restaurant at the Campuan bridge. The food is simply excellent and very reasonably priced. The setting above the Campuan River is stunning and it’s open every day, 9am – 10 pm.

There are great local and Western dishes or you can just have a snack washed down by a tropical fruit juice or something stronger. Murni’s has the best yoghurt and cheesecake anywhere.

It is owned by Murni, a very charismatic lady, who founded it in 1974. She’s usually around and enjoys a chat. She’s a treasure trove of information and was the consultant for Secrets of Bali which explains all you need to know about Bali.

Murni also has one of the best shops in Bali, known for rare ethnic pieces from all over Asia. She’s the place to go for textiles, jewelry, gifs and high quality handicrafts. Murni’s Warung Shop is very convenient as it’s part of the restaurant. The best pieces are upstairs.

Murni has accommodation too. Murni’s Houses are in the centre of town. Murni’s Villas with its jaw-dropping infininity swimming pool and uninterrupted views of hills and rice terraces are about 15-20 minutes’ drive outside Ubud. They are a favourite place for weddings, very private and luxurious, and about third the price of a 5 star hotel.

2008

Ubud & Beyond

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“West of Central Ubud. Murni’s Warung, Campuan. An old favorite, on the Ubud side of the Campuan bridge overlooking the stunning rainforest and Wos River. This multi-storied restaurant, decorated with Asian antiques from Murni’s collection, is where the eclectic mix of Western, Indonesian, and Balinese favorites got its start in 1974. Murni’s menu and dishes have stood the test of time and the satay, gado-gado, and grilled fish are delectable. The Lounge Bar, loved by expats, plays soft jazz. The lower dining areas offer tranquility with only the sound of the river accompanying the peace. Outstanding desserts and freshly-squeezed fruit juices.”

Bali, The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Most Spectacular Tropical Island
Linda Hoffman
Tuttle Publishing, 2012

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