Pekalongan was called ‘Batik City’ and was the largest producer of batik on the north coast of Java. Batik began there around 1850 and was influenced by the Chinese and Dutch. The batik makers had their own exquisite style: unique in form, design and colour, and instantly recognizable. The tone was soft.

Brightly coloured blossoms, elaborate floral designs, flower pots, carnations, tulips, roses, leaves, butterflies and birds covered the cloth. Their distinctive colours were rich yellows, bright reds, turquoises, royal blues and greens. A top quality batik may display a palette of up to seven different colours.

Hundreds of dots may decorate just one leaf. The batik maker draws freehand and the nozzle of the pen, called a canting, filled with warm wax, which makes the pattern, can’t touch the cloth. It is very tiring work.