Rama V (Chulalongkorn) (1868-1910) is one of the most revered of Thailand’s kings. Every 23 October, the anniversary of the king’s death, is a public holiday.

In Chonburi, 100 kilometres east of Bangkok, about an hour and a half’s drive from Bangkok, near Pattaya, a Buffalo Racing Festival is held on that day.

The Buffalo Racing Festival takes place at the ceremony fields in front of the Chonburi City Municipality Office. There are hundreds, perhaps thousands of buffalos and people and brighly painted kids.

2018 was the 147th year, when the province expresses gratitude to the  buffalos, who have been working unpaid for farmers throughout the year. 

The day starts at about 9 am in the morning with a parade through the town.

King Chulalongkorn was only 15 when his father died, so a regent was appointed until he was 20 and crowned king on 16 November 1873. He reigned for forty-two years. During his minority, he went on three study tours in 1871 and 1872 to Malaya, Singapore, Java, Burma and India with some of his brothers and half-brothers. He studied several legal codes and was impressed by the French Code Napoleon.

Chulalongkorn was a modernising monarch, whose first act was to abolish the custom of prostration before the royal presence and replace it with a bow of the head.

He strengthened the monarchy, centralised the bureaucracy under his own control, and created a modern army, an army that would later overthrow the absolute monarchy in 1932.

He bought modern rifles and built an impressive barracks beside the Royal Palace, which later became the Ministry of Defence. Chulalongkorn also created a police force.

Buffalo Racing Festival