“Lovers of old Ubud will relish the four guest-houses of Murni’s, hidden in the nice garden of a cosy Balinese compound on the edge of rice fields – there is no signboard, so you may need to ask for directions. Everything is made to make guests feel at home in peaceful seclusion, yet it is within walking distance from Ubud’s main street. Gourmets will appreciate the great breakfasts, with Murni’s famous home-made yoghurt.”
Nancy Royden
The Sentinel Newspaper
27 January 2010
It was my good fortune earlier this month to go to the small city of Ubud. Its natural beauty, friendly people, exotic views, culinary delights, rice terraces and spiritual aspects fascinated me.
As I stood outside my room at Murni’s Houses and said to myself, “everyone should see a place like this before they die.”
Highly spiritual Bali is described aptly by Ni Wayan Murni, of Murni’s Houses and other travel-related facilities in the Ubud area, as highly spiritual.
“The vital thing to appreciate is that there is hardly any division between the religious and the secular world. God is everywhere and in all things,” she wrote on her Web site, murnis.com.
Preparation for the trip started months ago when I booked a flight for about $1,500 with Japan Airlines, and later, a jaunt was taken to a medical travel office in Annapolis for immunizations.
For five days, my goals were to see and experience as much as possible in this land of the gods.
After landing at the airport in Denpasar, I was met by a driver from Murni’s Houses and taken to the place I would call home for my short duration in Bali. He was extremely friendly and made me feel welcome in his country.
A magical place.
Murni and her husband, Pat, own and operate the guest houses, where I stayed, as well as a warung (store) with a four-level restaurant in the Ubud-Campuhan area. They also maintain Villa Kunang-Kunang, a 10-minute drive outside Ubud.
To me, Murni’s Houses was a magical place to stay, especially at night when insects chirped and animals howled outside as I slept. The first night, the loud noises frightened me but by the last night, I couldn’t wait to hear all the wonderful sounds just beyond the door.
The bottom portion of the house was similar to American homes, but the top was different. It was screened to allow air from outside to circulate throughout. The huge, decorative and colorful umbrella and painted wooden angel above the bed provided a nice sight to wake up to each morning.
Each morning at Murni’s, breakfast was a much-anticipated thing. The plain yogurt with different types of fresh fruit and honey was divine. Coupled with tea, it was the perfect way to greet a new day.
Stunning views of the palm trees beyond the guest houses, and sights of statues and shrines on the grounds of Murni’s is a photographer’s delight.
Ubud
About a three-minute walk down two streets is the fascinating town of Ubud, a place known for artists, temples, very good food, batik items, and a wide variety of stores.
One place with several interesting areas is the temple Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati on Ubud’s main street. Every part of this temple has different things to see and possibly photograph, with very stunning bright colors, coupled with the terracotta color of main portions of the temple dedicated to the goddess of art and learning, Saraswati.
Feast for the eyes
One of my favorite memories from my visit to this temple is a woman who was on her knees, bowing to pray. It was a beautiful sight in a lovely place, with the Café Lotus and large, pink lotus flowers nearby.
Another highlight of a trip to Bali was the talented dancers in their breathtakingly beautiful costumes.
The Legong “Jobog” and Ramayana dances by the Bina Remaja Troupe at the Ubud Palace Court Yard in downtown Ubud were a feast for the eyes.
The Legong dance is based on the story of two brothers, kings Subali and Sugriwa, who are turned into monkeys. They wind up fighting and eventually recognize each other as brothers, according to the dance’s program.
The Ramayana dance features Rama, Sita and her brother Laksamana, who enter the jungle of Dandaka for a journey and are discovered by demonic minister Maricha of Alengka Kingdom.
Petulu Village
Another interesting site in the Ubud area is the Petulu Village, where the white herons live. There are three different types of herons residing in this village.
The herons arrived in Petulu in 1965. A large ceremony was held at the pura desa, or village temple, shortly following their descent.
A pamphlet explains: “It came as a surprise to the villagers the herons arrived after their ceremony and consider it as a blessing from God. In order to encourage the herons to live in Petulu and increase their population, the villagers make special ceremonies called memendak kokokan.
Motorbike tour
Thanks to my motorbike guide who took me to the village, I have some treasured photos of these gorgeous birds, some of them with the orange-colored necks. One of them gracefully spreads its wings in a photo.
I Nyoman took me to Santi Agrowisata in Gianyar. It is an awesome coffee and tea plantation operated by I Wayan Sudarana, who is most welcoming to tourists from all over the world.
I Wayan treated me like an honored guest, as I sampled some of the best drinks I’ve ever experienced – Bali coffee, Bali cocoa, lemongrass tea and ginger tea.
Natural beauty
Since a few days have now passed since I returned from the trip, I think about the natural beauty of the Ubud area and the things that make it so wondrous – the dancers, the folklore, multitude of craftsmen, the music, the orchids and the temples.
I remember my new friends and hope their beautiful surroundings in Ubud/Campuhan will never change due to development to strip the land of its natural beauty.
As Gede, I Wayan, I Nyoman, the folks at Murni’s and others showed me hospitality, peace and gave me wonderful memories, I wish them the same in return.
I wish for the exotic sounds of animals and birds to continue and all the array of traditional things they treasure to carry on for generations to come.
“Central Ubud. Murni’s Houses, Jalan Raya (up the ramp opposite Pura Dalem on the main street, left at the top, 2nd gate on the right), 4 delightful units [now 6], a 5 minute walk from the center, peaceful, traditional, clean, and very reasonably priced. Beautifully furnished by Murni in Balinese style. Well-kept gardens and the excellent Tamarind Spa in the grounds. Pick up, drop, activities, tours, and classes can all be arranged. US$60-115, includes Murni’s Big Breakfast.”
Bali, The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Most Spectacular Tropical Island, Linda Hoffman, Tuttle Publishing, 2012
Aussie brides choose Bali to wed over any other destination. Ian Lloyd Neubauer reveals the island’s most popular venues to say I do.
Hip, Hitched, Hooray
Ian Lloyd Neubauer The Sydney Morning Herald 10 March 2013
Set in a velvet-green valley in south-central Bali, Ubud is the spiritual capital of the island. Like something out of a Rudyard Kipling novel, the town is overflowing with Hindu temples – thousands in fact.
Don’t miss the lotus pond-ensconced Pura Saraswati temple, which is next door to a Starbucks, or the Gunung Kawi archaeological park half an hour out of town. And while it’s a no-brainer destination for Hindu weddings, this moss-covered fairytale of a place is also a popular destination for Christian weddings.
The best place to have a meal is Murni’s Warung. A four-story open-air eatery and bar overlooking a jungle-clad bend of the Campuan River, it was the first restaurant to open in Ubud, way back in 1974.
A few blocks away is Murni’s Houses, a traditional Balinese compound with four temple-like houses and an award-winning day spa set in a pixie’s garden.
“Why get married in Ubud? For starters it’s more traditional and authentically Balinese,” says owner Murni who, like many Indonesians, goes by one name only.
“And it’s cooler than the coast, which can be very hot. But the main difference is the scenery – many people like the backdrop of rice terraces for the ceremony.
“I’ve lost count of how many weddings we’ve done over the years,” Murni says. “I enjoyed them all, but the most memorable was the first, as I wasn’t sure we could do it. I was more nervous than the bride.
“We set the place up beautifully for the wedding by the pool: lots of tropical flower arrangements, tall Balinese umbrellas, ritual offerings and an antique table for the wedding book. Then it poured down. We quickly had to change everything, and then have the ceremony in my living room.
“But it all went well. And it gave us the confidence we could do weddings well, because we could deal with the unexpected.”
One of the World’s Top 10 Small Hotels Murni’s Houses
Just a stone’s throw away from Ubud Main Street, you will find a complex surrounded by a Balinese wall. Inside this secret garden nestles Murni’s Houses, which was once selected as one of the world’s top 10 small hotels by foreign media.
Murni’s Houses offer a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from normal guest room, house to apartment unit. Highlight is the lush and pleasant garden, where is also home to many precious sculptures by Indonesian living treasure Wayan Cemul.
The hotel provides various activities, including scuba diving, bird watching, bicycle tour and many more. Guests are promised to have a fun and unforgettable stay here.
Murni’s Houses and Spa appartenait au célèbre pionnier local Murni qui a fondé Murni’s Warung, le premier restaurant international d’Ubud en 1974 ainsi que le magasin Murni’s shop, le premier magasin d’arts tribaux et d’antiquités à Ubud. Cet établissement possède sept maisons confortables à la décoration traditionnelle balinaise. Chaque maison comporte deux chambres, un salon, une véranda et deux baignoires extérieures. Le salon possède également un lit. Les objets d’art ornent les murs et font de ce lieu un véritable musée. A seulement trois minutes de la rue principale d’Ubud, vous pouvez profiter du calme de ce lieu devenu une institution. Aux maisons, au restaurant et à la boutique s’ajoute un Spa (Tamarind) où le personnel qualifié vous accueille dans une ambiance propice à la détente.
Murni’s Houses and Spa est un lieu typiquement balinais construit par le célèbre pionnier Murni qui est également à l’origine de Murni’s Warung, le premier restaurant international d’Ubud en 1974 et de Murni’s Warung Shop, la première boutique d’arts tribaux d’Ubud. Le lieu possède sept hébergements confortables où vous pourrez profiter paisiblement du calme et de la solitude à seulement trois minutes à pieds de la rue principale d’Ubud. Tamarind Spa possède d’excellent thérapeutes, qualifiés et capables de vous relaxer. Un journaliste du New York Times en voyage dans la région décrivit Murni’s Houses comme l’un des dix plus beaux petits hôtels du monde.
