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Murni’s Warung Introduction

Fabulous Food at Local Prices  ❤️

Murni's Warung in the 1970s.

Plenty of restaurants have style and many have the substance. But putting the two together isn’t easy.

In 1974 Murni opened Ubud’s first real restaurant Murni’s Warung and married delicious food and a keen aesthetic sense.

Since then, spanning over half a century,  thousands of people have flocked to Murni’s Warung and enjoyed her food and hospitality.

Murn's Warung Level 1

Today, Murni’s Warung has four open-air levels that step down the steep hillside overlooking the river and it is still one of Ubud’s most popular and most beautiful restaurants.Murni's Warung Sign

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Murni’s Warung was Instagramable before there was Instagram!

Long before filters and hashtags, Murni’s Warung was already doing what social media now glorifies—creating spaces so beautiful, so authentic, that people couldn’t help but talk about them.

Nestled on the edge of a lush ravine with sweeping views of the jungle and a traditional Balinese design that blends seamlessly with nature, Murni’s Warung was the kind of place travelers would photograph with film cameras and proudly show off in their photo albums back home.

It wasn’t curated for the gram—it was curated for the soul. Every wooden carving, every textile, every artifact told a story.

The light streamed in just right. The food arrived looking like art before food styling was a trend. And the vibe? Pure magic.

Word spread, not through influencers, but through whispered recommendations and well-worn travel guides.

Murni’s Warung didn’t need Instagram.

It was—and still is—Instagramable in the truest sense: a place that inspires awe, invites connection, and lingers in the memory.

Open every day
⏰ 9 am – 10 pm daily
Dine in, Takeaways, Deliveries
 
+ 62 361 975233
☎️ WA + 62 812 3916 9648
murni (at) murnis.com
 
Available from Grab Food and Go Food
 
 

 Soar Above Legendary Murni’s Warung

 
Get A Bird’s-Eye View of an Ubud Icon
 
Discover Murni’s Warung as you’ve never seen it before — perched on the edge of a ravine surrounded by jungle with views that have captivated travellers for over 50 years

 

Drew’s Travel Adventures – Biyahe Ni Drew is a popular TV travel show in the Philippines that takes its viewers on an adventure every week.

It is broadcast by GMA News TV and GTV and hosted by actor Drew Arellano and has won many awards.

 

Lifetime Achievement Award, 2024

Lifetime Achievement Award 2024 Ubud Food Festival

I am deeply honoured by the Lifetime Achievement Award presented by Janet de Neefe at the Ubud Food Festival, 2024.

And I am also very pleased and flattered by the news coverage.

The Nusantara Bulletin reported,

‘Bali’s living legend, Ni Wayan Murni, was honored with the 2024 Festival Lifetime Achievement Award. Her iconic warung, established in 1974, had become a renowned refuge for travelers and a testament to her unwavering commitment to Balinese heritage.

Murni’s vision not only left a lasting impact on Bali’s culinary and hospitality landscape but also deeply touched countless visitors with her warmth and passion for sharing the beauty of her homeland,” Janet DeNeefe remarked with heartfelt admiration.’

Antara (Indonesian News Agency) were kind to say,

‘A living legend from Bali, Ni Wayan Murni, was named the recipient of the 2024 Lifetime Achievement Award. Murni’s Warung, which was founded in 1974, has become a top destination for travelers, both from within and outside the country.’

Radio Republik Indonesia said,

‘Legenda hidup dari Bali, Ni Wayan Murni, dinobatkan sebagai penerima Lifetime Achievement Award 2024. Warung miliknya, yang didirikan pada tahun 1974, dengan cepat menjadi destinasi bagi para pelancong—baik dari dalam maupun luar negeri. Seiring berjalannya waktu, warisannya juga berkembang dengan pendirian perusahaan-perusahaan yang masing-masing mencerminkan komitmennya terhadap warisan budaya Bali.

Visi Murni tidak hanya memberikan dampak jangka panjang pada lanskap kuliner Bali, tetapi juga menyentuh banyak orang dengan kehangatan dan semangatnya untuk berbagi keindahan tanah airnya,” kata Pendiri & Direktur Ubud Food Festival Janet DeNeefe.’

Tribun Bali said,

‘Janet mengaku tertarik dengan kisah legenda hidup asal Bali, Ni Wayan Murni, peraih Lifetime Achievement Award 2024 yang mana warung yang berdiri sejak tahun 1974, menjadi destinasi para turis domestik dan mancanegara yang warisan cita rasa turun – temurun higga bisa dinikmati masa kini.

Visinya (Murni,-Red) tidak hanya memberikan dampak jangka panjang pada lanskap kuliner Bali, tetapi juga menyentuh banyak orang dengan kehangatan dan semangatnya untuk berbagi keindahan tanah airnya,” beber dia.’

Forty Delicious Years

This review of our book will give you an idea of the importance and appeal of Murni’s Warung:

Forty-Delicious-Years-

FORTY DELICIOUS YEARS IS THE BEST BOOK ON BALI – TAKE A VOYAGE TO THE CULINARY AND SOCIAL HEART OF THE ISLAND OF THE GODS

Forty Delicious Years is one of the finest books ever produced about the mystical, legendary, god-blessed island of Bali – the sacred, unsullied morning of the world. Bali is a brilliant, bright emerald jewel set in the elongated necklace of 17,000 islands that comprise the brooding, primeval Indonesian archipelago. Anyone who has ever visited my beloved Bali – or is planning a sojourn of personal discovery or food discovery – should bring this book along with them. Forty Delicious Years is an incredibly revealing and intimate masterpiece about Ni Wayan Murni, her gorgeous gorge-side Warung restaurant in Ubud, and the constellation of notable expatriates and international personalities that have made Murni’s Warung their social and culinary home away from home.

The tell-almost-all book is filled with the charm and beauty of Murni’s universe, reflected in the anecdotes, accolades, reflections, and stories penned by forty of her often famous, well-known (Mick Jagger) customers and fans. These intensely personal, soul-revealing chapters empower all of us to be expats on Bali for awhile, and experience life as very lucky strangers in an unknown paradise. I lived in Bali for two years, and know first-hand the seductive, permanent pull on the soul by the spiritual, always-god-conscious Balinese and this very fertile, bountiful island sanctuary.

The writing is incredibly alive and spectacular, and is delightfully easy to read and digest. The book takes us into the sanctified world of Balinese cooking, traditional village social life, tinkling gamelan orchestras, and culture–seasoned with Murni’s kindness and career, and deep, longstanding friendships in the community.

Situated near the old Dutch suspension bridge in Campuan-Ubud, Murni’s Warung was built from the ground up, and is a legend in its own time. For almost four scrumptious decades, it has been the ultimate place for Ubud expatriates (and tourists alike) to fulfill their most deep-seated Balinese and western dessert fantasies.

The stunning, four-level restaurant is carefully decorated with Murni’s exquisite antiques, Balinese stone statuary, Buddha images, and artworks – and enjoys a spellbinding, natural riverside location and view. A visually and spiritually enlightening, five-foot-tall bronze statue of Ganesha the Elephant God symbolically creates prosperity and removes all obstacles in the Lounge Bar of Murni’s Warung. Ordered by Murni as a specially designed commissioned piece in 1997, it took highly esteemed, respected, experienced Balinese artisans-craftsmen five years to complete!

Murni remains an integral part of her village of birth and her island of Bali – and the forty testimonial chapters written by forty different long-time expatriates, visiting Bali scholars, and international adventurers/wayfarers are personal, unique, revealing and priceless. This book is a deep and memorable journey through residence in Bali, religious devotion, ceremonial splendor, and life as an expat (or repeat, Bali-obsessed visitor) eight sacred degrees south of the equator. As a first-hand travel journal collection in its own right, these personal tales of adventure – and longing for the spirituality and benediction of Bali – are amazing. And they all swirl around the wonderful people of Bali, Balinese life, and Murni’s longstanding contributions to and dedication to her community, family, local temples, and the gods.

One of the best stories is about a very loyal, Kintamani Bali dog named Dausa – who spent his life lounging on the front steps of Murni’s Warung as Murni’s personal guard dog. He lead a charmed life, and enjoyed such delicious foods as chicken sate sticks and Murni’s highly coveted chocolate chip cookies! A very pampered Balinese dog indeed!

I am an expert on Bali, as well as on traditional Balinese food and food culture, and have complete admiration for this very special new book about one of Bali’s most important and iconic purveyors of Balinese food, art, antiques, and hotel accommodation on the unforgettable island of the gods.

Dr. Vivienne Kruger

Author of Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali. Tuttle Publishing, 2014

 

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Murni’s Warung on Instagram

We have hundreds of photos already on Instagram and add more every day.

Murni's Warung on Instagram

 

Follow along with us @murniswarung_ubud_bali for a daily look inside Ubud’s legendary restaurant— featuring authentic Balinese food, stunning jungle views, and happy guests enjoying themselves.

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali certainly has a ring to it. We had to go down to Nusa Dua for a wine-tasting and it was just too far, after all that wine, to drive back to Ubud, so we picked a hotel that had a grand sounding name.  Grand Nikko Hotel fitted the bill perfectly and is part of the worldwide Nikko Group of hotels. It’s the only one in the group called Grand. It’s also a grand place for families and kids.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

We drove up to the entrance and were met by smiling staff. A nice Balinese man with glasses took our cases. First impressions are so important. We both felt good immediately and went through a smooth and efficient check in and were escorted to our room. There is a wide choice of rooms, suites and villas.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

We had an Ocean View room. As you can see, it was spacious, clean and comfortable. I was pleased to see a traditional Kamasan painting hanging on the wall. There was a television with all the international channels, an electronic safe, which could fit a laptop, and complimentary water in the mini-bar.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

We didn’t need a buggy, but if your villa is far away, they will actually take you by buggy, driven by a wonderful, smiling girl called Yeni. It’s almost worth booking a villa just for the fun of riding in the buggy.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

It’s a big hotel with two wings, built on a 40-meter cliff. The central core of the hotel has an incredibly dramatic view of the Indian Ocean. My jaw just dropped gazing out at the view.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

We immediately went down to explore. There’s a really imposing staircase from the entrance down to beach level. They also have elevators.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

We saw a very impressive buffet being set up in the garden. They were getting ready for Balinese Night and we felt beautiful, soft breezes on our cheeks wafting off the Indian Ocean.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

They had a sucking pig, babi guling, still untouched, but I’m sure not for long, as that’s one of the island’s most famous dishes. There was a vast array of food and there were drinks too.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

I’ve got a small hotel in Ubud, Murni’s Houses, grand in its own way, and I know a good hotel when I see one. A good hotel has good energy and the Grand Nikko has lots of energy.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

The staff are incredibly helpful – if you look lost, they come up to you and offer to bring you to where you are going. When you pass them in the corridor or meet them in the lift, they say hello and give you a big smile. How nice is that?

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

The hotel is large. I’m sure I haven’t seen it all, in fact, I know I haven’t seen it all. It has interesting statues and structures all over the place.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

Balinese stonecarvers and sculptors are talented and I’m delighted that their works are on display. I particularly liked the three fishermen, back to back, with their shared catch on their heads. It was very appropriate for the ocean setting.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

There are many comfortable places to sit and chill out. Tastefully decorated. Of course the whole place has wifi, which is vital these days.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

There are eight restaurants, yes, eight, including a Japanese one called Benkay and one called Olooloos. Don’t ask me what that means! They serve Mediterranean food, but outside a Balinese couple welcome you in.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

Breakfast is served in The Brasserie. It was very good indeed, regally and lovingly supervised by the charming Balinese sous-chef, Luh Sibang. She has worked there for eighteen years and is still loving it.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

There are freshly baked breads, croissants, bagels, muffins, and doughnuts. Orange, tomato, watermelon, papaya and carrot juices. Scrambled, sunny side up, omelettes, poached and boiled eggs. Really whatever you want.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

Western, Chinese and Japanese food. Indonesian fried rice, Indonesian fried noodles, chicken or pork congee and Soto Ayam (the famous spicy chicken broth). Unlimited smoked salmon too. Service was impeccable: lots of helpful staff helping you within seconds.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

After breakfast there are a whole range of activities – the wonderful beach, of course, but also a fun jungle camp for children, a camel safari ride, fitness centre, tennis courts and sauna. There are probably even more things that I haven’t yet discovered.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

There are four, maybe more than four, amazing inter-connected swimming pools, that just have to be seen to be believed, and a 30 metre water slide into one of them. One of them actually has sand coming up to it, which is a genius and safe way of keeping an eye on young childen at the beach.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

Just wandering around I came across a wedding in the grounds. Not surprising as it’s a perfect place to get married with the well-kept beautiful lawns, pools and beach. I am sure that the wedding photographs were stunning. Grand Nikko has it all.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

The Shore restaurant is ideally situated, yes, on the shore. We had lunch there and Komang, our kindly waitress, suggested that we join One Harmony for free and have 10% off all meals and future stays in the hotel group. We joined straightaway.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

I love spas, and in fact, I have one in Ubud, Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses, so I am always keen to try them out. It was a real pleasure going to Mandara Spa. I had an excellent therapist, Oka Astini, and enjoyed the experience in a private villa immensely. I can certainty recommend it and have become a member of Mandara Spa.

 

Grand Nikko Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali

 

The only bad thing was leaving, but, for sure I will return soon.

 

There are more photos in the Gallery.

Murni

Bali Photography Tours

Bali Photography Tours

 

We’ve been talking to David about the possibility of offering Bali Photography Tours to guests of Murni’s Houses for over a decade and now it’s finally happened. It was worth the wait!

 

Bali Photography Tours

He’s providing Half Day and Full Day tours – there are four different themes to choose from.

 

Bali Photography Tours
 

 
I was lucky enough to be able to join three guests on the first Bali Photography Tours and the theme was Rural Traditional Balinese Life and attending Balinese Ceremonies. They keep the number of guests small – minimum two, but it can even be one, with a small additional fee.

It quickly became apparent that no two tours are alike and they adapt the day to what is happening on the ground, and in Bali what is happening on the ground is totally unpredictable and full of delicious surprises.

 

Bali Photography Tours

 

They picked us up at Murni’s Houses at 5.30 am. Full marks for the early start as early light is the best light. Photography is really about painting with light and harsh midday sun makes for harsh photos. It is also delightfully cool.

We drove a short distance, about half an hour, to a nearby place in the countryside where there was the most dramatic view of Mount Agung, the largest volcano in Bali. It was still dark but the early morning rays were just beginning to peek out. Those of us who had tripods set them up.

David and his assistant Nyoman immediately started to guide us through the settings in our cameras. David is an expert on Nikons and Nyoman on Canons, but they can explain the settings on any camera. They encouraged us to get away from using AUTO and taught us how to create the shot that we saw in our heads.

 

Bali Photography Tours
 

 

Then we wandered down the road, ricefields and trees on either side, which provided more photo opportunities, with people starting to go about their business.

 

 

Bali Photography Tours

Very shortly we were down some steps at this amazing river. David had seen it before but hadn’t been down the steps. There was the most amazing light that any of us had seen.

 

Bali Photography Tours

 

The first rays of the sun

Happy Independence Day, Indonesia

Happy Independence Day, Indonesia

independence-day_ubud
independence-day_ubud

After a long struggle, on 27 December 1949, the Dutch finally recognised Indonesia as an independent state and transferred sovereignty to the Republic of the United States of Indonesia. On 17 August 1950, which was the fifth anniversary of the declaration of Independence, the country was proclaimed the Republic of Indonesia. President Sukarno became the first President of Indonesia and Mohammad Hatta, a highly effective Minangkabau economist from Sumatra, became prime minister.

Indonesia always claimed that the date of independence was 17 August 1945 but the Dutch insisted that the date was 27 December 1949.

In August 2005 the Dutch accepted the 1945 date.

The story of the struggle is told in our book Secrets of Bali, Fresh Light on the Morning of the World, now available as an ebook for immediate downloading.

Happy Independence Day, Indonesia! There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

Friendly Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

Friendly Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

bali-ubud-policelady-1
Even the Cops are friendly.

46,000 readers of Conde-Nast Traveler, the world’s premier travel magazine, have just voted Ubud the 9th friendliest city in the World. In 2010 the majority of 25,000 of its readers voted Ubud the “Best City in Asia.”

I’m not sure Ubud is a city, I’m not even sure that it is a town, nevertheless the accolades are very welcome. Only a couple of cities – in Bhutan and Mandalay – beat my home town/city/village in Asia.

Friendly Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

Ambling in Amed, East Bali

Last week we went to Amed.

Ambling in Amed

Murni and I were with Southeast Asian textiles’ expert Dr Linda McIntosh and we were on a mission.

 

Ambling in Amed

The mission was to scout out places to bring a small select group of textile enthusiasts to.

 

Ambling in Amed

We needed to find interesting weavers and dyers, who were still using and creating natural dyes, and trying to maintain the old traditions, which are in danger of dying out and disappearing.

Ambling in Amed

We got up before sunrise and set off in search of textile producers.

Ambling in Amed

We saw some amazing sights.

Ambling in Amed

‘To learn the magic of light get up before sunrise and watch’ – Ted Grant – and we did.

Ambling in Amed

David Young said, ‘It is the photographing of ordinary things, in extraordinary light, which results in extraordinary photographs.’  We stayed 3 days and the light was different everyday and every minute of everyday. It was all extraordinary.

 

Ambling in Amed

Mission accomplished, we have launched and invite those interested in textiles and culture to join Murni’s Textile and Cultural Tour at Murni’s Houses.

Ambling in Amed, East Bali. There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

A Walk on the Wild Side, Ubud, Bali

It’s easy to get off the beaten track in Ubud.  A Walk on the Wild Side, Ubud, Bali follows.

 

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, UBUD, BALI

 

Recently Murni and I took  two of our guests at Murni’s Houses for a walk on the wild side. It only took five minutes to be in the rice paddies and amongst the coconut and palm trees. It’s on our doorstep.

 

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, UBUD, BALI

 

We got up at 7 am. It was already light and the temperature was wonderfully cool.  Wildlife and humans were stirring.

 

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, UBUD, BALI

 

We walked down the slope to the main road, crossed over and we were soon surrounded by a thousand shades of green.

 

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, UBUD, BALI

 

There were people going to work on their bicycles…

 

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, UBUD, BALI

 

and bicycles just waiting for the owners to take them for a spin.

 

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, UBUD, BALI

 

There were geometric shapes.

 

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, UBUD, BALI

… and if you looked carefully new life was bursting forth.

 

Do you know an actress here who has a great English accent who might like to narrate audio versions of the books?

 

Wildflowers add a touch of colour to the overwhelming green backdrop.

 

Do you know an actress here who has a great English accent who might like to narrate audio versions of the books?

 

Works of art in the shape of rice paddies reflected the sky above and hard labour below, and centuries of it.

 

Do you know an actress here who has a great English accent who might like to narrate audio versions of the books?

 

After several hours we were back to the modern world of cars and motorbikes, but at least the first motortbike was green.

 

Do you know an actress here who has a great English accent who might like to narrate audio versions of the books?

 

There’s more about Rice in Secrets of Bali.

 

A Walk on the Wild Side, Ubud, Bali. There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

Mask Ceremony, Ubud, Bali

Mask Ceremony, Ubud, Bali. Last month the whole community in Ubud attended an unusual ceremony.

 

Mask Ceremony, Ubud, Bali
Balinese mask

Mask Ceremony, Ubud, Bali.

Balinese masks take many forms and are usually carved from a special,  fine-grained, cream-coloured, light wood called pule (alstonia scholaris), which grows in graveyards. Two of the masks in question came from a pule tree in the graveyard near Murni’s Houses and the other from another graveyard in Peliatan at the other end of Ubud.

 

Gate to Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali.
Gate to Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali.

 

The tree must be ‘pregnant’, that is to say ready and suitable for carving, evidenced by the bark swelling slightly outwards. The mask maker goes to the tree on an auspicious day, presents his offerings and requests the tree’s permission. He then chops a slab of wood with his axe and takes it back and waits for inspiration.

They are kept in special shrines and receive offerings every full and new moon, on Kajeng-Kliwon, which is every fifteen days, and also when they are used. In addition, they get special offerings on a day known as Tumpek Krulut, which occurs every 210 days.

 

Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali.
Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali.

 

The night before the big night the community prayed in Pura Dalem, the temple associated with the dead, and where the masks were kept. In front of them were thousands of offerings.

 

Sidakarya dancer at Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali
Sidakarya dancer at Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali

 

Outside the main courtyard was a sole dancer. It was Sidhakarya – the same masked dance as one of the three masks that were the subject of the ceremony.

 

Balinese masks are of ancient origin and act like a lightning rod in the sense that they attract the spirit of the person to be portrayed. They are the vehicles of the gods and are sacred.

 

White haired Rangda Mask.
White haired Rangda Mask.

 

There were three masks involved in the ceremony at Pura Dalem. There was Sidhakarya  and two Rangda masks, one white haired and one red-brown haired.

 

Red-brown haired Rangda Mask.
Red-brown haired Rangda Mask.

 

Rangda is the Queen of the Witches, tall and has tusks. Some temples have two Rangda masks, one red and the other white. The red one represents the more dangerous Rangda. The white one stresses her royal birth—some say Rangda is based on the 11th century Princess Mahendradatta.

 

Procession to Pura Gunung Lebah, Campuan, Bali.
Procession to Pura Gunung Lebah, Campuan, Bali.

 

The night before the main night the masks were carried down to the sacred Wos river in Campuhan for a purification ceremony at the temple known as Pura Gunung Lebah.

 

Sidhakarya Mask in Pura Gunung Lebah, Campuan, Bali.
Sidhakarya Mask in Pura Gunung Lebah, Campuan, Bali.

 

The main night involved a procession along the main street of Ubud to the temple in Peliatan as the wood for the other mask came from the graveyard in Peliatan and then they went back to the graveyard in Ubud. It was after midnight and dark. The graveyard was packed and the three masks were surrounded by priests. All lights were turned off and the crowd was asked to leave while the priests stayed with the masks waiting for a sign that the gods approved. Such a sign would be lights falling from the sky. There was approval.

 

There’s more about Balinese Masks, Ceremonies, Sidhakarya and Rangda in Secrets of Bali.

 

There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

 

Balinese Masks are available at Murni’s Warung Shop and on line.

 

Mask Ceremony, Ubud, Bali.

 

 

Kuningan in Ubud, Bali

Today is Kuningan in Ubud, Bali, which is the last day of the 10 day holiday beginning on Galungan when the gods descend and are present. Today the gods leave Bali.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

The roads are decorated, shrines are covered in glorious textiles and statues are dressed.

 

Kuningan in Ubud
Kuningan in Ubud

 

The Balinese pray at their temples and shrines. It’s an  important and happy day.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

Murni’s Warung was closed as the Balinese staff are all too busy to work. So I left Murni’s Houses to walk into town for lunch. I looked back at the large Balinese gate and admired the penjor, the large bamboo pole, which is symbolic on many levels, and the offerings stuffed into the niches on either side of the door.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

Walking down the main street I photographed a few shrines and the shop where I’ve often bought udeng, the Balinese headdress for men, from the old lady, who also sells hats. She’s always smiling. She had  a rather nice double shrine.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

A little further down shop girls were chatting happily as a lady went about her business carrying a plastic container on her head.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

Throughout this period Barongs parade along the streets, always accompanied by umbrellas and music.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

I mentioned in an earlier post that there are different types of Barong. This one is the pig Barong.

I decided to follow it and soon it stopped in front of a house and danced bringing good luck to the family who lived there.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

I spotted a Balinese girl photographing me. We became friends and she invited me into her home to see her family temple and meet the family. Photography is like that.

The family temple was a beautiful one with magnificently decorated shrines.

But better than that there were several generations of welcoming people.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

The youngest member was intrigued to see a large, ungainly foreigner wander in.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

His sister was  more comfortable with the intruder and slightly bemused.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

His aunt had eyes that looked right through you and melted your heart.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

His mother was proud and smiley.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

His grandmother had a wonderful, wise and kindly face.

 

Kuningan in Ubud

 

Her friend was sitting beside her.

There’s more about Galungan, Kuningan and Barongs in Secrets of Bali.

 

Kuningan in Ubud, Bali.  There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud, Bali

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

 

1st June was not just a day, it was an auspicious day, and it was not just an auspicious day, it was a triply auspicious day. Perfect for a New Spa Ceremony in Ubud, Bali.

The Balinese believe in auspicious days. They are coincidence days, rather like Friday 13th.

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

 

So 1st June was a very good day to have the blessing for the opening of Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses, Ubud, Bali.
The weather was glorious, which made it a quadruply auspicious day.

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

 

Early in the morning Murni and her family and friends prepared the numerous offerings of fruit and flowers, rice and spices, and I even noticed a cooked chicken.

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

 

On such days the priests are very busy carrying out ceremonies. We were lucky that he showed up around noon, which made it more challenging for photographs.

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

 

 

He brought his bell, which resonated throughout, and his mantras, and his mudras, which are sacred hand gestures.

 

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

 

 

The women sprinkled holy water over every corner of the spa, both inside and out. Balinese Hinduism is not called the holy water religion for nothing.

 

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

A piece of cloth with magical symbols for protection was attached to the eaves, never to be removed.

 

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

A bamboo pole was burnt over a small fire until it exploded frightening away any malevolent spirits that might have been lurking about.

 

 

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud

After a couple of hours of mantras, ringing bells, and prayers, the ceremony was over and the spa had received the blessing of the gods and was ready to welcome guests.

There are more photographs of New Spa Ceremony in Ubud, Bali a  on www.jonathaninbali.com

 

There are chapters on Balinese Hinduism, Balinese Calendars, Balinese Ceremonies and Offerings in Secrets of Bali.

The Tarot Reader of Ubud

The Tarot Reader of Ubud

 

It’s not every day that you meet a tarot reader, and certainly not every day that you meet one  in Ubud, and especially not one who advises top government ministers. Meet The Tarot Reader of Ubud.

 

The Tarot Reader of Ubud

 

It is not unusual in Asian countries for government decisions to be cleared first by people who have extraordinary powers.

 

The Tarot Reader of Ubud

 

It would be an interesting academic study to research their influence on world events.

 

The Tarot Reader of Ubud

 

We are extremely lucky to have met Novi, who is very down to earth, a teacher, mother and author (I think in that order).

 

The Tarot Reader of Ubud

 

She has agreed to take time out of her hyperactive schedule to give tarot readings to guests staying at Murni’s Houses. She allowed me to pick up the camera as she revealed some extraordinary truths about myself.

There are more photographs of The Tarot Reader of Ubud  on www.jonathaninbali.com

The Barongs of Bali

The Barongs of Bali

 

 

The Barong is unique to Bali and every time you see one it’s exciting. As you can see, they look life-like. They have spirit and come in various forms, the most common one being the Barong Ket. They symbolize Bali. Murni’s Warung Shop was honored to be asked to commission and oversee the making of a Barong Ket for one of the best-known museums in New York. It gave me an opportunity to take these photos.

 

The Barongs of Bali

 

And writing the book Secrets of Bali gave me the opportunity to research them and now to quote a few sentences from it without asking anyone’s permission except my own.

Walter Spies and Beryl de Zoete observed that Barongs are ‘…at once the most familiar and the most obscure…’ figures in Balinese tradition. Barongs come in many forms, but the most common is like a baroque Chinese lion, the Barong Ket, with big eyes and clacking jaws. It is one of the most sacred masks in Bali and probably every village has at least one.

The Barong protects the village from harmful influences. It parades the streets during every Galungan festival, dancing in front of shops and houses, warding off evil.  The Balinese wait in front of their buildings and bow in reverence when it passes.

 

The Barongs of Bali

 

Barongs also parade just before Nyepi, at the time of the Balinese New Year. The Barong’s origins are obscure. Two men are inside; one operates the wooden head and lower movable jaw, and the other holds up the back and arched tail… they need to be very strong as the whole costume weighs about 187 pounds (85 kilos).

The beard of human hair from a pre-menstruating girl is the most powerful part. If it is dipped in water, it creates holy water and can cure. The hairy hide, made of palm fibres or the hair of a white horse, is covered with small bells, mirrors and decorations. It takes about three months to make a good quality Barong. When a Barong Ket is old and in shreds, it is ceremonially cremated.

The Barongs of Bali

 

 

There are more photographs of The Barongs of Bali on www.jonathaninbali.com

Candi Dasa – East Bali

Candi Dasa – East Bali

 

Even in Bali, it’s sometimes important to get away from it all and Candi Dasa – East Bali is a pretty accessible place.

 

Candi Dasa – East Bali

 

Candi Dasa is a quiet, sleepy seaside town in eastern Bali that rests on the edge of a lagoon.

 

Candi Dasa – East Bali

 

When we come back from Darmaji we like to go to an old-fashioned restaurant on the beach, which has been there forever, overlooking the beach, the shipping boats and huge rocks, where you can see Nusa Penida in the distance.

 

Candi Dasa – East Bali

 

There are more photographs of Candi Dasa – East Balion www.jonathaninbali.com

Darmaji School – East Bali

Darmaji School – East Bali

 

Every year we visit this wonderful school Darmaji School – East Bali with the founders of The Ganesha Foundation, a charity which supports the school under the auspices of the East Bali Poverty Project.

 

Darmaji School – East Bali

 

Its purpose is to help children receive a basic secular education.

 

Darmaji School – East Bali

 

The school is in one of the poorest parts, where tourists never visit, in the hamlet of Darmaji between Mount Agung and Mount Abang.

 

Darmaji School – East Bali

 

If you would like more information, or to make a donation, have a look at www.ganeshafoundation.org.

There are more photographs of Darmaji School – East Bali on www.jonathaninbali.com