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Forty Delicious Years – 1974 – 2014

Forty Delicious Years – 1974-2014, Murni’s Warung, Ubud, Bali, From Toasted Sandwiches to Balinese Smoked Duck

Gourmand Awards

GOURMAND AWARDS 2019

Finalist: A06 Special Awards

Look Inside

Forty-Delicious-Years-Forty Delicious Years – 1974-2014, Murni’s Warung, Ubud, Bali, From Toasted Sandwiches to Balinese Smoked Duck

Jonathan Copeland
Rob Goodfellow
Peter O’Neill

 

Email: murni (at) murnis.com

Forty Delicious Years is the story of Bali’s most enduring culinary landmark – Murni’s Warung in Ubud. Narrated by some of the Warung’s most intriguing patrons, with a Preface by Murni herself, the book tells the story of how a humble roadside stall became an institution – in fact a must visit on a magical must visit island.

This easy to read and immensely enjoyable collection of vignettes was published to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Murni’s Warung in February 2014.

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“It’s an institution. It’s a favourite, and a hive of memories and friendships. It’s Murni’s Warung.”

Jero Asri Kerthyasa

“It’s not just food and a good time that you get at Murni’s Warung, but a complete sensual experience.”

Professor Michael Hitchcock

“Murni’s Warung … the best clubhouse in the Universe.”

Karen Goodman

“Murni is and always will be one of my favourite mothers in town.”

Janet de Neefe

“For forty delicious years Murni’s Warung has been somewhere to relish life, excellent service, good food, and the company of friends.”

José in den Kleef

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Bring your copy to dinner at Murni’s Warung and if Murni is there she will sign it.

If she is not there … then there is still a wonderful menu, which deserves to be worked through course by course by course by course.
 

Book Reviews

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Forty Delicious Years - 1974 - 2014

Forty Forte

Murni’s Warung,

Hello Bali, Editor’s Finds, February 2015

 

If you have been living in Bali for some time, chances are you know and love Murni’s Warung in Ubud. Dating back to the 1970s, Murni’s Warung is
 a treasured food joint with authentic Balinese food and Campuhan River views. Furthermore, Ibu Murni herself is a beloved figure whose hospitality has earned her many friends and loves over the years. However, if you don’t yet know who Ibu Murni is or where
 to find Murni’s Warung, it’s high time you do. One of the best ways to do that is to read Forty Delicious Years, a compilation of stories about the warung and the namesake founder told by the warung’s eclectic patrons. It’s an interesting insight into what it’s like to be among the island’s insiders.

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Ubud Icon Murni’s Warung Turns Forty

Katrin Figge
Jakarta Globe
4 April 2014
 
Ubud Icon Murni’s Warung Turns Forty

Murni’s Warung remains an Ubud icon 40 years since it was established, with fans crediting its founder as the heart of the place and even of Ubud.

She is often referred to as the “mother of Ubud,” and her restaurant has been a longtime favorite among both travelers and locals: Ni Wayan Murni, a Bali native who recently celebrated the 40th anniversary of Murni’s Warung with the launch of a book that includes personal memories and anecdotes of people who have accompanied her on her journey from the 1970s until today.

Author and photographer Jonathan Copeland, co-editor of “Forty Delicious Years,” as well as a good friend of Murni, said that it felt right to celebrate this milestone “in a more tangible way than simply a T-shirt and party.”

“We didn’t want a book blowing our own trumpet — there are enough of those vanity publications around — but instead a book focussing on the times and life of Murni’s Warung as seen through the eyes of its guests over 40 years,” he said.

It is an approach that gives readers the chance to learn more about Murni and also about Ubud and Bali in general, and particularly how significantly it has changed over the years.

The first thing that needed to be done was to decide on the number of contributors; 40 contributor for 40 years was the logical solution.

“We then compiled a list of colorful, engaging and interesting characters whom we thought we could contact,” Copeland said. “We went through the time-consuming process of trying to track them down. Some were easy to locate but some were impossible to find. We were delighted with the final list as they comprised a wide range of nationalities, occupations and ages which cover the life of Murni’s Warung from day one until the present. They are all busy people with big jobs and we are very grateful for the time they spent on this.”

Murni, who was born in Penestanan, just a few minutes away from Ubud, began selling breakfast snacks before going to school in the 1950s. Less than 20 years later, Murni already owned four shops on Sanur Beach and established Murni’s Warung in Campuhan-Ubud.

Besides traveling the world and collecting Asian antiques and textiles, Murni built Murni’s Houses and Murni’s Villas catering to the growing number of tourists, and recently opened the Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses.

In the book, Murni writes that she still finds it incredible to look back at how she started Murni’s Warung — with no more than a bowl of soup and a sandwich.

“I wasn’t a cook and had no knowledge of what Western food was. I had no business plan, no mission statement, and no spreadsheets. I didn’t have electricity or a fridge or an electric oven. I didn’t have staff or suppliers or a car,” she said. “But I did have passion and drive and energy. And I had friends and customers and hard work. Luckily, Murni’s Warung grew and prospered and has been able to serve food and drinks to thousands of people these 40 years.”

Murni also has a very special connection to the restaurant’s location on a gorge above the river Wos, which is sacred to the Balinese people.

“It has been part of my life, going back more than 40 years,” she said. “When I was a very young child […] I played and bathed down there at the river and among the rocks. When I was older, I helped carry rocks up from the river bed to the road for construction use. Later still, after my parents split up, I secretly met my mother below the bridge. I never dreamed that I would be able to buy part of the gorge, live there and go to sleep to the sound of the sacred river crashing over the rocks.”

Copeland, who has worked with Murni on three previous publications, said that not many people can survive in the highly competitive F&B industry, especially these days, when new restaurants pop up everywhere in Bali.

“Restaurants often start out as flavor of the month and fizzle out,” he said. “It is not an easy business and diners are demanding and unforgiving customers who don’t give you a second chance.

“I think it’s easy, in retrospect, to see how Murni’s early success came about,” he added. “In the early days there simply wasn’t a place in Ubud to get good food. Murni’s Warung was a beacon for early travelers to hang out. They spread the word and they still do. But obviously there had to be substance to it. I think the substance is what has made Murni’s Warung remain a favorite for so long. Murni is a perfectionist. She is very concerned about the comfort and happiness of her guests. And she is a traditionalist concerned about the preservation of Balinese culture. Murni’s Warung is a Balinese building with Balinese food served by Balinese waitresses in Balinese dress.”

Dr. Lawrence Blair, an anthropologist, author and filmmaker who has been based in Bali for almost 40 years, was among the warung’s earliest customers and still vividly remembers a quiet Ubud.

“Instead of tourists, there were only a few ‘travelers’ and barely a handful of eccentric resident expats,” he writes in his section in the book. “And the place to meet them was Murni’s Warung. But the first real draw to Murni’s was the discovery that hers was the sole place in Ubud to have mastered that most rare and esoteric art of producing a sunny-side up properly fried egg. Further cause for enthusiasm was when she also became the first person in Ubud to provide natural yoghurt and wild honey with one’s tropical fruit.”

Blair was also witness to some of the illustrious figures who have visited Murni’s Warung over the years, including Richard Branson, Mick Jagger, Richard Gere and Diane Von Furstenberg.

“My only regret is that they weren’t all there at the same time,” Blair wrote.

Australian-born Janet de Neefe, founder of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, has also been a regular to Murni’s since the 1980s.

“Many of my fondest memories of Ubud in the Eighties are wrapped up in the walls of this multi-leveled eatery,” she writes in the book. “We’d sip on freshly squeezed lime drinks brimming with crushed ice while slowly eating nasi campur or nasi goreng . Lunchtimes drifted into dinner and it didn’t matter. There was nothing urgent to be done except chat about life, love and cosmic heroes — there were no mobile phones, Internet, e-mails, reality TV, not even Facebook.”

De Neefe, like the other contributors, have always enjoyed the peaceful surroundings as much as the delicious food. But they also all agree that Murni, the heart and the soul of the restaurant — some might even argue, of Ubud — has always been the real draw and the secret of the restaurant’s lasting success.

“Back then, I remember that one of the greatest joys about visiting Murni’s Warung was simply Murni,” de Neefe said. “She used to sit at the front desk and invariably wander up to your table and have a chat. There is so much to love about Murni. Whether it be her heart that’s as big as the moon, her gentle nature, grace or soft humor.”

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Forty Delicious Years, 1974-2014

“I enjoyed every chapter of this book.  A wonderful collection of stories from long-term residents, many of whom are famous authors, artists and scholars. An entertaining and interesting read of reflections of Murni, the “Mother of Ubud”, who started a humble little restaurant some forty years ago.  It’s a journey of loving, living and laughter through these pages.  Highly recommended read.”

Stephanie Brookes

Author Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage – Cultural Journeys of Discovery

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An Ubud icon – Murni’s Warung is celebrating 40 years of operations with the publication of a new foodie book.

Murni’s Warung, located in what is arguably the cultural capital of Bali, was Ubud’s first international standard restaurant and, on February 20, 2014, it marked 40 years of continual operations.

Celebrating the landmark, The Orchid Press publication “Forty Delicious Years” is the story of Bali’s most enduring culinary landmark—Murni’s Warung in Ubud.

Narrated by some of the Warung’s most noteworthy patrons and with a preface by the legendary Murni, the book tells the story of how a humble roadside food stall became an Ubud institution and a ‘must visit’ on a magical ‘must visit’ island.

According to Ibu Murni, considered by many to be a “Mother of Balinese Tourism”: “The 20th of February in 2014 also happened to be my calendar birthday and, what’s more, this date also fell on the same day as my Balinese birthday. This rarely happens, so it’s was a triple … no, a quadruple celebration.”

Bali Update

6 April 2014

www.balidiscovery.com

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FORTY DELICIOUS YEARS IS THE BEST BOOK ON BALI–TAKE A VOYAGE TO THE CULINARY AND SOCIAL HEART OF THE ISLAND OF THE GODS

By Vivienne Kruger on July 7, 2014

Forty Delicious Years is one of the finest books ever produced about the mystical, legendary, god-blessed island of Bali–the sacred, unsullied morning of the world. Bali is a brilliant, bright emerald jewel set in the elongated necklace of 17,000 islands that comprise the brooding, primeval Indonesian archipelago. Anyone who has ever visited my beloved Bali–or is planning a sojourn of personal discovery or food discovery–should bring this book along with them. Forty Delicious Years is an incredibly revealing and intimate masterpiece about Ni Wayan Murni, her gorgeous gorge-side Warung restaurant in Ubud, and the constellation of notable expatriates and international personalities that have made Murni’s Warung their social and culinary home away from home. The tell-almost-all book is filled with the charm and beauty of Murni’s universe, reflected in the anecdotes, accolades, reflections, and stories penned by forty of her often famous, well-known (Mick Jagger) customers and fans. These intensely personal, soul-revealing chapters empower all of us to be expats on Bali for awhile, and experience life as very lucky strangers in an unknown paradise. I lived in Bali for two years, and know first-hand the seductive, permanent pull on the soul by the spiritual, always-god-conscious Balinese and this very fertile, bountiful island sanctuary.

The writing is incredibly alive and spectacular, and is delightfully easy to read and digest. The book takes us into the sanctified world of Balinese cooking, traditional village social life, tinkling gamelan orchestras, and culture–seasoned with Murni’s kindness and career, and deep, longstanding friendships in the community. Situated near the old Dutch suspension bridge in Campuan-Ubud, Murni’s Warung was built from the ground up, and is a legend in its own time. For almost four scrumptious decades, it has been the ultimate place for Ubud expatriates (and tourists alike) to fulfill their most deep-seated Balinese and western dessert fantasies. The stunning, four-level restaurant is carefully decorated with Murni’s exquisite antiques, Balinese stone statuary, Buddha images, and artworks–and enjoys a spellbinding, natural riverside location and view. A visually and spiritually enlightening, five-foot-tall bronze statue of Ganesha the Elephant God symbolically creates prosperity and removes all obstacles in the Lounge Bar of Murni’s Warung. Ordered by Murni as a specially designed commissioned piece in 1997, it took highly esteemed, respected, experienced Balinese artisans-craftsmen five years to complete!

Murni remains an integral part of her village of birth and her island of Bali–and the forty testimonial chapters written by forty different long-time expatriates, visiting Bali scholars, and international adventurers/wayfarers are personal, unique, revealing and priceless. This book is a deep and memorable journey through residence in Bali, religious devotion, ceremonial splendor, and life as an expat (or repeat, Bali-obsessed visitor) eight sacred degrees south of the equator. As a first-hand travel journal collection in its own right, these personal tales of adventure–and longing for the spirituality and benediction of Bali–are amazing. And they all swirl around the wonderful people of Bali, Balinese life, and Murni’s longstanding contributions to and dedication to her community, family, local temples, and the gods. One of the best stories is about a very loyal, Kintamani Bali dog named Dausa–who spent his life lounging on the front steps of Murni’s Warung as Murni’s personal guard dog. He lead a charmed life, and enjoyed such delicious foods as chicken sate sticks and Murni’s highly coveted chocolate chip cookies! A very pampered Balinese dog indeed!

I am an expert on Bali, as well as on traditional Balinese food and food culture, and have complete admiration for this very special new book about one of Bali’s most important and iconic purveyors of Balinese food, art, antiques, and hotel accommodation on the unforgettable island of the gods.

Reviewed by Dr. Vivienne Kruger, Ph.D. Author of Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali. Tuttle Publishing, 2014.

Forty Delicious Years – 1974-2014, Murni’s Warung, Ubud, Bali, From Toasted Sandwiches to Balinese Smoked Duck

Tamarind Spa Publication, Warung Reviews

Bali – Green Utopia – Ubud

ubud, bali, murni, murni's warung, tamarind spa, massage, eat, restaurantBali – Green Utopia – Ubud

Stephanie Brookes

iFly – KLM in flight magazine

July 2016

The ultimate palms and paradise destination? There are many, and Bali is definitely on the shortlist. But there’s more to the Indonesian island besides white-sand beaches and clear blue water…

For me, the town of Ubud is the best place to base myself. I find myself among the tranquil, terraced rice fields and beautiful mountain scenery …  my adventurous week … aimed at exploring and experiencing Bali’s local way of life.

Rejuvenation treatment 

The next day, my body tells me it is time to take a rest. I book a three-hour relaxation and rejuvenation treatment at Murni’s Tamarind Spa in Ubud. Locally, Murni is affectionately known as ‘the Mother of Ubud’. She pioneered tourism in Ubud in the 1970s by setting up her legendary restaurant, Murni’s Warung, where artists, adventurers and academics hung out, drinking mango lassies. 42 years later, Murni still lovingly presides over her dream creation on the jungle-clad Campuan Gorge above the Wos River. The stellar-rated Tamarind Spa is the latest addition to Murni’s business. Under a beautiful tamarind tree, I find out that my massage therapist, Kartini, was the former personal therapist of the President of the Seychelles.

After a welcome drink, cold towel and foot ritual, Kartini starts to weave her therapeutic magic on me. She begins with an hour-long traditional massage, deeply relaxing, mind- soothing and muscle-relieving. A full-body exfoliation follows, with a fragrant green-tea scrub and a yoghurt rub down. After that heavenly treatment, my skin feels softer than that of a baby. I end up soaking in a warm bath with multi-coloured flower petals floating on the water’s surface. Finally, after a pot of organic herbal tea and fresh tropical fruit, I leave feeling relaxed as can be.

Places to eat 

Murni’s Warung

This four-level open-air restaurant overlooks a jungle- clad ravine and raging river. Not only does the restaurant serve excellent Indonesian and western dishes, it also houses a shop with textiles, jewellery, tribal artefacts and collectables. Try their famous apple pie.

Things to do 

Murni’s Tamarind Spa

Located in the heart of Ubud, this beautiful spa in quiet tropical gardens offers aromatherapy massages, traditional Balinese boreh herbal scrubs and more.

Bali – Green Utopia – Ubud

FORMS, Murni's Houses

Booking Activities and Classes

Murni's Houses Activities white water rafting activity

 

To contact us:
Please fill in the form or, if you wish, email us at: murni (at) murnis.com
We always reply within 24 hours, usually more quickly.
If you don’t get a reply using the form, something has gone wrong, so please email us.
Murni

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    What would you like to do? *

    Buffalo Racing, Dancing and Photography in West BaliOur Favourite Instagrammable SpotsHelicopter TourBatik Painting ClassTarot ReadingCasa Luna Cooking ClassBali Herbal WalkBumbu Bali Cooking ClassBalinese Dancing ClassBalinese Flute LessonsBalinese Gamelan LessonsLearn to Play the RindikLearn Indonesian or BalineseWhite Water RaftingElephant Safari ParkUbud Cycling TourDownhill Mountain Cycling TourUbud Ricefields Walking Tour2 Hour Rice Paddy TrekMurni’s Bali ToursBalinese Painting ClassBalinese Offerings ClassMason Chocolate Experience TourMason Chocolate Maker ClassTrekking and TouringJungle TrekMount Batur Volcano Sunrise TrekBali SwingJungle BuggiesTamarind Spa at Murni’s HousesUbud Afternoon Dance TourPhotography Tour Full DayPhotography Tour Half DayMurni’s Bali ToursBali Hai Day Cruises: Lembongan and Nusa Penida IslandsMason Chocolate Maker Class

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    Note that we only arrange these for guests staying at Murni’s Houses.

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    House Review, Tamarind Spa Publication

    The Best Spas in Bali for Your Money

    The Best Spas in Bali for Your Money

    Tamarind Spa ,Just LuxeJust Luxe
    www.justluxe.com

    By: Jon | Posted on May 24, 2012

    The Best Spas in Bali for Your Money

    For many travelers, a trip to the spa for some pampering is one of the highlights of any trip. A few hours spent in a tranquil environment, getting massaged, cleansed and relaxed can do wonders for any stressed out globetrotter.

    In the tropical paradise of Bali, the spa experience goes to a new level. Nestled in lush gardens or along sandy shores, the spas in Bali are legendary and thousands of travelers book flights to this tiny nation every year for rest and rejuvenation. From full service spa resorts to simple day spas, these are some of the best bets for your money in this paradise. All prices are in Australian dollars.

    Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses

    Located under the shade of a Tamarind tree in the tourist hotspot of Ubud, Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses is one of Bali’s most consistently top rated spas. With trademark Balinese hospitality, the spa is surrounded by tranquil gardens and fountains, and offers a full range of spa services from massages and rubs to manicures and pedicures. Tamarind Spa is also unique in that it is an artistic as well as relaxing experience. Murni, the owner of the spa and adjacent guest houses and villas, has a background in fine art and has filled the spa with Balinese and Indonesian art, offering a glimpse into the local heritage. Prices for such luxury are surprisingly reasonable, with full day packages average about $100.

    The Best Spas in Bali for Your Money

    Tamarind Spa Publication

    The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Most Spectacular Tropical Island

    The Ultimate Guide to the World's Most Spectacular Tropical Island“Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses, Jalan Raya (up the ramp opposite Pura Dalem on the main street, left at the top, 2nd gate on the right). Murni’s extremely popular new spa shot to the top of Trip Advisor within weeks of its opening. Rave reviews. Many repeat guests, including masseurs, say it’s the best they’ve ever experienced. Well-kept gardens, fountains, sounds of running water, soothing music, healthy lunches, reasonably priced.”

    Bali, The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Most Spectacular Tropical Island, Linda Hoffman, Tuttle Publishing, 2012

    Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses

    Culture

    Balinese Offerings

    Balinese Offerings

    Introduction

    Offerings are called banten in Balinese. It is possible that the word comes from the Sanskrit word bali, which means tribute, obligation or gift. Or it may be derived from the word enten, which means to wake up or be conscious. It is a consciousness of the gods.

    If you stay at Murni’s Houses you can learn how to make them .

    Purpose

    Offerings are gifts. They are a means of giving something back. But, of course, gifts obligate the recipient and so the system creates mutual obligations and favours, even between humans and spirits. With offerings to the demons, however, the offeror does not expect a gift in return, just the favour that the demons will go away.

    There is another indirect purpose. The chapter entitled Balinese Religion in Secrets of Bali describes their function.

    Preparation

    One of the most striking things about Bali is the daily profusion of offerings. Offerings are important: they are to give pleasure to the gods (and the demons). They provide good karma to those involved in their preparation. Nearly every village has its own unique forms of offerings.

    Some Balinese spend all their lives making them. Women mostly, but not exclusively: it depends on type of offering. Men prepare certain offerings as described in Secrets of Bali. Some can only be made by Brahman women. The work in preparing an offering, itself is an element of worship, and is regarded as part of its content.

    Bokor

    An offering must have a container. Some offerings are placed in round containers carved of gold or silver. They are made in various sizes. Nobody knows when the Balinese started using bokor as ritual utensils. There are no recorded documents.

    It is said that the Pande clan of silversmiths, who lived in the village of Nongan in Karangesem in East Bali, about 60 kilometers from Denpasar, made them first. Now there are only seven artisans in Bali, who do so.

    During the Dutch colonial period, it was difficult to find the raw materials and the only way was to collect tin coins, called pis bolong, and melt them in a heated kiln at 200 degrees Celsius. Finding the coins was a risky business. The Dutch imposed a prison sentence for anyone found collecting, much less using them to make bokor.

    Components

    The tall offerings have a soft banana tree trunk in the centre to serve as a core for inserting bamboo skewers to which the fruits and other things are attached.

    Every offering has at least three ingredients as described in Secrets of Bali.

    Offerings accompany ceremonies and prayers. They vary considerably in complexity. Some are very simple, some very tiny; others can be several meters high. If there is an important ceremony, such as a temple ceremony, enormous towers of flowers, fruit, cakes, meats and eggs are made at home and carried to the temple by women on their heads, often for long distances. Offerings are made of entirely natural things. They all have a very short life, but they contain the things that the gods like, the things that the Balinese like.

    On very special occasions, like a wedding or a tooth-filing, figurines of coloured rice dough are made, fried and attached to a huge bamboo frame, several meters high, which represent the universe symbolically. There are ascending levels. They often have a gate, shaped like the kori agung gateway in a temple, the gateway to heaven. There are many flowers, fruits, leaves and other floral elements. Bhoma, with his large round face and bulging eyes, is above the gateway, symbol of the middle world and fertility, son of Mother Earth and Wisnu. The Cili, symbol of the Rice goddess and fertility, always has a place. The base is often Bedawang Nala, the turtle, on which the world rests, with the two snakes. These sarads take many people several days’ work. They last a week or so and are never eaten. They are accompanied by big meat offerings consisting of pig meat, intestines and fat, which are made by men.

    Another kind of offering, much smaller, is made by pinning palm leaves from the coconut palm, sugar palm or lontar palm trees, and sewing them together with little pins of bamboo, or alternatively plaiting them into little containers. These are fashioned in numerous quantities.

    Offerings for Durga and the demons always contain some pork or fish, onions, ginger and alcohol (palm wine or brem).

    Temple offerings

    You may stumble across a long procession of women, dressed in fine Balinese costumes, offerings on their beads, threading their way to the temple. It makes for a great photograph. It is, of course, appropriate for offerings to be carried on the head, as the head is the most sacred part of the body. Offerings are gifts to the gods and deified ancestors. When they are brought to the temple they are placed on special pavilions and sprinkled with holy water symbolically to remove any impurities. Then the priest offers the spiritual essence to the deities, after which the worshippers pray. Once the deities enjoy them and take their essence, their Sari, their function has been fulfilled. They are usually taken home and eaten and never re-used.

    Family compound offerings

    Family shrines are given daily offerings in the morning – after the meal has been prepared, but before it is eaten. On important days there are special offerings: days like Kajeng-Keliwon, Tilem, Purnama, the Tumpeks, Galunggan and other festivals. A female family member presents the offerings. She must be dressed in Balinese dress. The offerings are carried on a tray with a stick of burning incense. She wafts the essence of the offering towards the shrine.

    The chapter in Secrets of Bali entitled Balinese Ceremonies explains the five different types of ceremony.

    Very quickly dogs come and eat offerings on the ground, but that is alright, as the essence will already have been taken by the spirits by the time the dogs get there and in any case it is appropriate for dogs to take them. Dogs are not regarded highly by the Balinese. To call someone a dog is a monstrous insult.

    Important offerings

    All offerings are important, of course, but there are two that make an especially striking appearance on certain days:

    Lamaks

    These are runners, made usually of palm leaf, but they can also be made of cloth, whose main function is to decorate an altar or shrine. They also serve as a base for offerings. They are fairly narrow, but can vary in length from about 30 cm to more than 10 meters. The short ones have geometric patterns only, but the longer ones have representational and geometric patterns, often of a Cili, Dewi Sri, the Rice goddess.

    The tree of life, sometimes on a little mountain, is the main motif, symbolizing the unity of all forms of life on earth. Pinning on contrasting dark green or dyed red leaves makes the patterns. The lamak is described as clothing for the altar or shrine.

    Every Galungan festival, lamaks hang from the main shrines in every house temple and in front of people’s houses. The province of Gianyar, where Ubud is, is famous for very tall lamaks, five to eight meters long, erected outside houses where a wedding has taken place since the previous Galungan.

    Penjors

    Penjor in Ubud BaliPenjors are tall, decorated bamboo poles, whose curved upper ends, on which are attached elaborate offerings, perhaps in the form of a Cili, dangle graciously over the middle of the road. The gods on Mount Agung and visiting ancestors will see them clearly. They are erected outside temples and family houses during certain ceremonies, and always at Galungan, beside a temporary altar dressed with a lamak.

    In Gianyar, if there has been a wedding, two penjors are set up, a large one representing the man with a white cloth and a smaller one representing the woman with a yellow cloth. If Galungan falls on the same day as a full moon, additional decorations and strings of shells are attached, which emit a beautiful tinkling sound in the wind.

    There are many theories about the symbolism of penjors. See Secrets of Bali for more information.

    Cosmic Symbolism of Offerings

    Mountains are represented in the shapes of offerings in many different ways. Rice is frequently moulded like a cone. The big offerings are mountain shaped. Mountains also often appear on lamaks. The bamboo pole of a penjor looks like a mountain. It represents Mount Agung.

    Mount Agung, the highest mountain in Bali, is very sacred, as it is the abode of the gods, and represents Mount Mahameru, the sacred Hindu mountain, on earth. Mount Mahameru links the underworld, the middle world and the upper world. The constant stream of water down mountain slopes is a source of life.

    Another holy mountain is Mount Mandara, which the epic Mahabarata describes being used as a paddle by the gods and demons to churn the Sea of Milk to obtain amerta, which is the elixir that gives everlasting life.

    Colour and Directional Symbolism of Offerings

    Secrets of Bali explains the numerous symbols operating in Bali. The compass points, colours, numbers and other attributes, called the Nawa Sanga system, have direct relevance in many aspects of offerings.

    Cockfights 

    An offering is a gift. Many things can be viewed as offerings, like dances or cockfights. Even a cockfight is an offering. See the chapter in Secrets of Bali entitled Balinese Cockfights.

    Culture

    Balinese History – the 20th century

    Balinese History – the 20th century

    Tourism

    In 1908, the year that the last Balinese kingdoms fell, the Dutch opened a tourist bureau in Batavia to promote the Dutch East Indies as a tourist destination. It extended its scope to Bali in 1914.

    The first tourist to visit Bali was a Dutch Member of Parliament, Herr H. Van Kol.  Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    A KPM Advertisement to Bali.

    With the introduction of a regular weekly KPM steamship from Java to Bali in 1924, tourism took off – the first tourists were from the colonial administration. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Over in Europe, the Europeans had gone through the First World War and were keen to forget the rigours they had to endure. Those who could afford it started to travel. In those days travel was a leisurely pursuit; for instance, it took six weeks to go from America to Bali by ship.

    Books, articles and postcards whetted their appetites. Exotic photographs began to be published – the first was by a German doctor, who was posted to Bali, Gregor Krause, whose book, Bali 1912, was published in 1920. This book probably inspired Vicki Baum, the novelist, to go to Ubud, meet up with Walter Spies and write A Tale from Bali.

    Secrets of BaliKLM Poster of Amsterdam to Batavia (Jakarta), 1934.

    One of the world’s oldest airlines. KLM, Royal Dutch Airlines, established in 1919, flew from Amsterdam to Batavia. The first flight was on 1 October 1924 – a ground-breaking 55 day journey. The plane was a Fokker F.XII and covered 14.350 km.

    In September 1929, regular scheduled services between Amsterdam and Batavia commenced. Until the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939, this was the world’s longest-distance scheduled service by plane.

    The “Twice Weekly Service” (Wednesday and Saturday) in 1934 was a significant upgrade from the previous weekly service, covering a “1/3 of the earth’s circumference”, stopping  in 25 cities, including Athens, Cairo, Baghdad, Karachi, Calcutta, Rangoon, Bangkok, Medan, and Singapore. It took five and a half days, compared to six weeks by ship.

    Tourist numbers

    Bali Hotel PosterBali Hotel Poster.

    In the 1920s a few hundred tourists visited Bali every year and in the 1930s a few thousand. Miguel Covarrubias, who visited in the Thirties, was worried about the possible effect of tourism on Balinese culture. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The Second World War, the struggle for Independence and the difficulties in the early and middle 1960s put tourism on hold. In 1964 there were 35,915; in 1965 29,367 (a drop of 18.23 per cent.) and in 1966 19,911 (another drop of 32.79 per cent.) In 1968, the figure was 10,997. Things changed following the settling in of the New Order regime of President Suharto in 1966. It was pro-West and coincided with a better world economy.

    A Bali Tourist PosterA Bali Tourist Poster.

    In 1993 there were 155,597 foreign visitors to Bali, which soared to 1.14 million in 1996. By the late 1990s millions poured in every year. In 1999 281,221 Japanese, 216,711 Australian, 118,131 Taiwanese, 108,328 British, and 75,605 Americans arrived directly into Bali. The busiest months are July and August. The total for the year was 2.4 million.

    By 1999 Bali was home to 1,234 hotels with 34,317 rooms and 642 restaurants with a seating capacity for 51,660. At the end of 2001 Bali had 36,000 hotel rooms. There is now a glut of hotels. Real prices in the hotels fell 60 per cent. over the decade.

    Fly Qantas to BaliFly Qantas to Bali.

    In 2000 the country received 5.06 million visitors, slightly less than its target of 5.1 million. The attacks on the World Trade Centre in New York on 11 September 2001 had a dramatic effect on tourism. Tourist arrivals in Bali fell 25, 33 and 15 per cent. in October, November and December 2001 respectively, compared to the same months in 2000. Altogether, in Bali, there was a 3 per cent. decline on the 2000 figures, which meant that 1.3 million people visited the island. Arrivals from the United States and Europe showed the greatest decline, but even the Japanese tourists, who normally account for 27 per cent. of the market, stayed away.

    A Bali Tourist Poster, 1930.A Bali Tourist Poster, 1930.

    As regards spending, the Japanese spend most, followed by the British and then the Australians. In 2001 Bali commanded about 8 per cent. of the world tourist market, valued globally at US$ 100 billion a year.

    After the Bali bomb on 12 October 2002, the Iraq War, the outbreak of SARS and bird flu, tourist numbers dropped significantly. Arrivals fell to the lowest level in eight years to 4,457,021 in 2003 and foreign exchange earned was only US$4,037 billion, the lowest in the previous 10 years.

    Walter Spies

    Walter SpiesWalter Spies.

    Bali’s most influential visitor was the Russian-born Walter Spies, son of a German diplomat. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    First of all he stayed in the royal palace but then built his own thatched bamboo house and studio in Campuan on land that he rented from the royal family. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Spies’ visitors

    He was interested in every aspect of Balinese life and culture. The rich and famous, as well as musicologists, anthropologists and novelists, all beat a trail to his door: Charlie Chaplin, Noël Coward, the ethno-musicologist, Colin McPhee and his anthropologist wife, Jane Belo, and the novelist, Vicki Baum, to name but a few. Margaret Mead and her third husband, Gregory Bateson, spent their honeymoon there, as well as carrying out a lot of pioneering anthropological research and writing several books and numerous articles. Their research lasted from 1936 to 1938 with a brief stay in 1939, during which time they wrote a lot and collected more than 1,200 paintings.

    Charlie Chaplin in BaliCharlie Chaplin in Bali.

    Noël Coward left a tongue-in-cheek poem in the Bali Hotel guest book, part of which went:

    “As I said this morning to Charlie
    There is far too much music in Bali,
    And although as a place it’s enchanting,
    There is also a thought too much dancing.

    It appears that each Balinese native
    From the womb to the tomb is creative,
    And although the results are quite clever,
    There is too much artistic endeavour!”

    The most flamboyant of Spies’ visitors was the Woolworth’s heiress and film star, Barbara Hutton, who fell madly in love with him. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Spies explained a lot to Miguel Covarrubias, the Mexican painter and ethnologist, who wrote the influential Island of Bali, published in 1937 and which is still widely read today.

    Goona-GoonaGoona-Goona.

    Spies painted. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    He also took photographs – his photographs appear in a book he co-wrote with American dance critic, Beryl de Zoete, Dance and Drama in Bali.

    Soder Havets Paradis. Dance of the Virgins (1935). Swedish movie poster.Soder Havets Paradis. Dance of the Virgins (1935). Swedish movie poster.

    He advised on a number of films and choreographed the Kecak dance with Katharane Mershon, the American dancer-ethnologist, for a German film. Katharane Mershon lived in Sanur and wrote a book on Balinese life ceremonies.

    Colonial Exposition, 1931

    Colonial Exposition, 1931Colonial Exposition, 1931, Balinese PavillionColonial Exposition, Balinese Pavillion, 1931.

    Spies promoted Bali’s image abroad in the Colonial Exposition in Paris in 1931. It was a great success. The prince of Ubud was the leader of the first dance troop ever to go to Paris. Many members of the Ubud royal family went.

    Pita Maha

    With Dutch painter, Rudolf Bonnet, who had arrived in 1929, Spies encouraged local painters to paint everyday life, try perspective and use modern paints and materials. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Bali, IndonesiaBali, Indonesia.

    The final exhibition was on 3 December 1941, just 36 days before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour.

    Hans and Rolf Neuhaus

    Spies also sold to the souvenir shops that were just starting to appear. Two German businessmen, Hans and Rolf Neuhaus, managed a well-known shop in Sanur, which opened in 1935. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Spies is arrested

    The Second World War, however, was looming. The Dutch were becoming alarmed by Germany and were looking for scapegoats. Spies was arrested on New Year’s Eve, 1938, charged with having sex with a young boy, convicted and imprisoned. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    When Hitler invaded Holland in May 1940 all German nationals were rounded up. Spies, who by that time had taken up a passionate study of insects and marine life, was the last German left in Bali. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The Balinese Kings

    The Dutch concluded that their decision to strip away the powers of the Balinese kings had been a mistake. There were strong stirrings of nationalism and communism in the 1930s. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    5 Gulden bank note (1937)5 Gulden bank note (1937).

    In 1938, on the Balinese holy day of Galungan, eight Balinese aristocrats were consecrated as rulers, Zelfbesturders, at the Mother Temple of Besakih. Above each of them was a Dutch civil servant called a Controleur, whose task was to guide them on how to move Bali into the modern age.

    The royal families learnt Dutch and were encouraged to go school in Java or Holland. Their job was to facilitate the colonial administration. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Before long the Japanese arrived.

    The Japanese occupation, 1942 – 1945

    Japanese troops cycled down Malaya, conquered Singapore, crossed over to nearby Sumatra, moved east and landed at Sanur on the coast of Bali on 18 February 1942. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The Dutch surrendered on 9 March 1942. The Battle of Java Sea at the end of February 1942 ensured the Dutch capitulation. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The Japanese continued the Dutch method of indirect rule through the pre-existing power structures and promised the Indonesians independence and thereby gained some acceptability. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    They introduced two important reforms. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Balinese History“Get Out! The Indies Must be Liberated” ie from the Japanese: 1945 Dutch propaganda poster created by Nico Broekman.

    Resistance to the resumption of Dutch rule was strongest in Bali, Java and certain parts of the Celebes and that may not be coincidental with Japanese influence.

    National Revolution, 1945 – 49

    British and Australian troops accepted the Japanese surrender on 14 August 1945. Three days later the Indonesians proclaimed independence in Jakarta on 17 August 1945. Sukarno was to be President and Hatta Vice-President, but the Dutch did not recognize the Republic. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Proclamation of Indonesian IndependenceProclamation of Indonesian Independence.

    By October 1945 the Republic had been recognized by China, the Soviet Union and the United States. But the Dutch wanted their empire back and they were able to call upon the British to help them. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The objectives of the treaty were “to re-establish civilian rule, and return the colony to Dutch administration” and “to maintain the status quo which existed before the Japanese invasion”. The British forces were brutal. The British Government has since apologised. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The United Nations discussed the Indonesian issue for the first time in January 1946.

    Dutch troops land

    Over 2,000 Dutch Indies troops landed on Sanur beach on 2 March 1946. The Dutch forces were frequently undisciplined in the early months and burned villages and gunned down innocent people. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    About a third of the Balinese fought on the Dutch side. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The Republicans were themselves split into factions. So, Bali was divided and the divisions remained following independence.

    Ngurah RaiNgurah Rai.

    The most significant battle was when 96 nationalists led by Lieutenant Colonel I Gusti Ngurah Rai, were surrounded and totally wiped out in one day on 20 November 1946 by the Dutch near the village of Marga in the hills of Tabanan. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali..

    The United Nations expressed disapproval of the Dutch desire to re-conquer Indonesia and the United States pressured the Netherlands to grant independence. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Independence

    On 27 December 1949 the Netherlands recognized Indonesia as an independent state and agreed to transfer sovereignty. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    PancasilaPancasila.

    The Indonesian constitution is founded on the Pancasila principles. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    President Sukarno became the first President of Indonesia. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Sukarno, 1950 – 1967

    Sukarno had a radiant personality and was a brilliant orator. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    President SukarnoPresident Sukarno.

    He took an intense personal interest in Bali and toured the island at least twice in 1950 and spoke to large crowds. He built a palace in Tampaksiring and visited several times a year bringing many distinguished guests, including Nehru, Ho Chi Minh, Tito and Khrushchev. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Bali Rangda Dance Poster.Bali Rangda Dance Poster.

    This period in Bali is marked as one of chronic violence and volatility. Bali had no strong local state apparatus. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Bali officially became a province on 14 August 1958. Prior to that there was one province Sunda Kecil comprising Bali, West Nusa Tenggara and East Nusa Tenggara. In 1960 the capital was moved from Singaraja to Denpasar.

    In the early 1960s there were rat and mouse plagues, insect infestations and crop failures. It was not an easy time. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The economic problems coincided with aggressive national land reform legislation backed by the left leaning PKI party and the left leaning President Sukarno and his appointee, Bali’s Governor Suteja.

    Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Balinese History – the 20th century

    Culture

    Balinese History – Pre-history to the Europeans

    Balinese History – Pre-history to the Europeans

    The First Balinese

    The first wave of humans moved east out of Africa. About 1.8 million years ago they are believed to have reached China. At that time the levels of the sea rose and fell many times so they could have made it by land to Java. Later it would have to have been a journey by sea.

    China domesticated rice about 8,000 years ago. Linguists and archaeologists are widely agreed that the first Austronesian settlers sailed south from southern China via Taiwan and the Philippines into Indonesia between 4,000 and 5,000 years ago, cultivating rice as they went. They probably moved because of a population explosion. There is genetic evidence as well. It had been thought possible that the Polynesians could have come from America and not Asia – as Thor Heyerdahl had suggested in the Kon-Tiki expedition – but genetics has now shown this to be incorrect and that their journey began in coastal China or Taiwan.

    Between 3000 BC and 400 AD, a period of nearly 4,000 years, they had colonized most of the inhabitable islands of the Pacific from the Philippines to Hawaii and Easter Island. They also settled on Malaya’s coasts, south Vietnam and even Madagascar off the east coast of Africa. In these places, the Austronesian family of languages survives.

    In the Philippines, one group went east and another group went west. The one moving west towards Indonesia spoke Malayo-Polynesian languages, to which Balinese belongs. They had several religious practices that resemble Bali’s religion closely. Probably between 2,500 and 3,000 years ago they reached West Indonesia. Nothing is known about the people who lived in Bali (and there would have been some) before then.

    Perhaps these early seafarers kept moving because of population pressures. Or maybe they were reacting to volcanoes, earthquakes, typhoons or other natural disasters. The monsoon winds would have helped them as long as they kept near the equator.

    There is archaeological evidence of habitation about 2,000 years ago at two sites in Bali, one in Gilimanuk on the northwest coast and the other in Sembiran in the north-centre. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Rsi Markandeya

    The alternative story is that Rsi Markandeya, a great Siwaite Hindu saint, was the first person to set foot on Bali, when it was still joined to Java, around the end of the 8th century. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    The Metal Age

    In northeast Vietnam, about 500 BC to 300 BC, around the Dong-Son area in the North Annam region there was a flourishing metalworking culture. Richly decorated gong-like drums, which were probably imported by Indian traders, were first starting to appear at this time. They were favourites amongst the Indonesians.

    By at least the first century AD Bali had acquired the skills to cast or smelt copper, bronze and iron. It may be, although there is a debate about it that the massive Pejeng kettledrum, called the Pejeng Moon, was made in Bali. It is still in the imperial temple, Pura Panataran Sasih, Pejeng, not far from Ubud. It is housed three meters above the ground, so it is wise to bring binoculars.

    Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    India and China

    Trade with India began in the first century AD. Indian ceramics of that period have been found in Bali. The Indians were just interested in trade, not conquest or migration.

    The Chinese were also trading with Indonesia by at least 400 AD. They came as Buddhist monks, traders and emissaries of the Middle Kingdom. Ships sailed back and forth between India, Indonesia and China. The Chinese scholar, Yi-tsing, reported in 670 AD that he had visited a Buddhist country called Bali.

    The Indians also introduced religions to Indonesia. By the 5th century AD a Hindu kingdom had been founded. By the 600s one of the kings of Sumatra was a Buddhist and the town of Palembang, a centre of Chinese trade, was much influenced by Buddhists coming from India and China. The kingdom of Srivijaya, around modern Palembang, in fact became a major centre of Mahayana Buddhism, whose political influence was felt all the way up the Malayan peninsula as far as Thailand. Monks and priests travelled to Bali from the kingdom of Srivijaya.

    BorobudurThe first photograph of Borobudur by Isidore van Kinsbergen after its first restoration about 1873. A Dutch flag is flying on top of the main dome.

    There were probably Buddhists in Java in the 5th century and certainly by the 8th century AD. In Java the great Sailendra dynasty built the largest Buddhist temple in the world, a great stepped, pyramid-shaped mandala, Borobudur, on the outskirts of Jogjakarta in south Java, some time between 750 and 850 AD.

    The Javanese kingdom of Mataram assumed regional power in the mid-9th century.

    Just as the dominance of Buddhism throughout the eastern half of Asia seemed inevitable, Islam attacked successfully. It moved into the Malay Peninsula and then captured most of the Indonesian islands, but not Bali. In east Java an early Islamic tombstone carved in about 1082 has been found. Islam swept through the southern part of the Philippines.

    The Early Balinese Kings

    The earliest evidence of kingship is from seven bronze edicts in Old Balinese from 882 – 914 AD. They are dated according to the Indian Saka calendar, which shows Indian influence. It is likely that the local rulers were impressed by stories of the Indian rajas and, wanting to strengthen their own control, asked for advice from the Brahman priests. The rituals of these powerful priests would supernaturally legitimise an increase in the ruler’s power. The princes tried to associate themselves with Indian culture as much as possible and created family trees with roots in Indian culture. They claimed to be temporary incarnations of the Hindu gods.

    The link between divinity and kingship is not only a Balinese concept. King Solomon was anointed by Zadok the Priest. Anointing is reserved for priests, prophets and kings and forms the central part of the coronation ceremony of the English monarch.

    The earliest ruler is Kesari Warmadewa, three of whose inscriptions have been found. He ruled around 913. This is probably the same man as Sri Wira Dalem Kesari, who is said to have built a palace at Besakih, the present day Merajan Selonding being his place of worship. He is said to have enlarged Pura Panataran Agung, which was then a small and simple temple, as well as building some other Besakih temples.

    Nine subsequent bronze edicts, from 915 – 942 AD, show the kings using Indianized names.

    Historical finds suggest that the capital was in the region of Intaran/Pejeng and Bedulu. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    It was a feudal system. The king and the court offered protection and mediated in village disputes. In return the villagers provided services, maintained temples, carried out rituals and ceremonies. They paid taxes and on request provided the king with armed guards. Communications between the king and the commoners were through the village council.

    There are references to weavers, iron and goldsmiths, irrigation tunnel builders, carpenters, masons, shipbuilders, musicians, singers and dancers. These specialisations suggest a healthy surplus-producing economy, which would have been based on wet and dry rice cultivation. Vegetables, cotton and kapok were grown and horses, cattle, goats and pigs were bred.

    Relations with East Java

    The Java-inspired marriage of the great-granddaughter of the king of East Java to the Balinese prince Udayana brought about a Javanization of the Balinese court. Her name, Gunapriya Dharmapatni comes before that of her husband in documents. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Their two sons, Erlangga (sometimes spelt Airlangga) and Anak Wungsu inherited the right to rule. Airlangga was sent to Java and worked for his grandfather in East Java. He succeeded in uniting East Java, ruling it from 1037 to 1049, while his younger brother ruled Bali, perhaps in his name. Bali was therefore one of Erlangga’s domains and started a link with Java.

    Erlangga developed a deep interest in a mystical, inner religious life and became a hermit. Tradition has it that he had the body of a king and the head of a Hindu mystic.

    Nine massive, stupa-shaped royal tombs, called Gunung Kawi, near Tampaksiring, completed around 1080 AD, are evidence of royal funeral cults and strong Javanization. They are a short trip from Ubud and are reached by walking down 300 steps.

    Java rules Bali

    Bali was conquered for the first time in 1284. It became subject to foreign rule by the East Javanese king, Kertanegara, the founder of the Majapahit dynasty. Religion was brought back to and centred in the court. The influence of the mountain temples waned.

    There were strong Tantric elements again. Black magic and sorcery returned. These concepts are still evident in today’s trance cults, occult practices and beliefs in witches and goblins, which are especially dominant in the south and south-western parts of Bali, and particularly in Sanur, Kesiman, Tabanan and Gianyar, where the court had the most influence.

    Bali is independent again

    Kertanegara was murdered in 1292 and Bali was independent again for another 50 years.

    Java carves Bali up

    For the Balinese, history really begins with the Majapahits and with a myth. The myth is that in 1343 the great Majapahit kingdom of East Java, then at the height of its powers, sent armies to Bali to defeat the king of Bali, who was a supernatural monster with a pig’s head, who lived near Pejeng. The Balinese therefore see themselves as the descendants of the great Majapahits – with the exception of a few pockets of aboriginal Bali Aga people.

    Indonesian nationalists claim that the Majapahit Empire stretched over what is now modern Indonesia as well as the Malay peninsula. The actual area was probably only Java and some nearby coastal regions, with a nominal tribute being paid by other coastal states.

    Following the conquest the prime minister and commander-in-chief, Gajah Mada, asked a Javanese Brahman priest for help in bringing the Balinese into line. The priest sent his grandson, Ida Dalem Ketut Kresna Kapakisan, who established his court and palace at Samprangan, just east of Gianyar, around 1349. He founded a dynasty that would last until the 20th century. He was born a Brahman, but had to change his status to a Satria, in order to rule. It is noteworthy that caste can be changed. He had the full support of Javanese administrators, who were located strategically throughout the island.

    Kapakisan subdued most of Bali but there were a few areas that were difficult. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Two leading local clans, the Paseks and the Bandesas, who traced their origins to Javanese high priests, collaborated with Kapakisan. They were given special tasks in respect of the temple system and village order. King Airlangga and Empu Kuturan had already entrusted these clans with leadership. (For details on Empu Kuturan see the chapter entitled Famous Balinese Temples in Secrets of Bali.). The Paseks are still influential today.

    When Dalem Ketut Kresna Kapakisan died, his eldest son became the king, but he was weak and was replaced by his younger brother, I Dewa Ketut Tegal Besung, who moved the court to Gelgel, near Klungkung, on the southeast coast in 1383 and founded the Gelgel dynasty. Gelgel became an artistic centre.

    He died in 1460 and was succeeded by his son, Waturenggong, and the court flourished.

    Bali’s Golden Majapahit Age

    Over in Java, in the late 15th century, disputes sparked off civil wars and the Majapahit Empire was declining. Islam had entered through Sumatra in the 13th century and at the beginning of the 16th century was making headway in the coasts of Java. They pressed inland and dealt the Empire a fatal blow between 1515 and 1528. The aristocracy, priests, jurists, artists, artisans and those unwilling to be islamised moved to the easternmost parts of Java and Bali. The descendants of the former vassal Balinese kings stayed in power and eased the process.

    Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    God-king worship also changed. Although he was still believed to be the incarnation of Wisnu, people no longer actually worshipped him. Nevertheless he was directly associated with the divine. As far as religion went, there was emphasis on complex classification systems and numerological and colour symbolism. See the article entitled Balinese Symbolism.

    He kept close contact with ordinary people, travelled and mounted theatrical performances. Painting, literature, music and drama were promoted as useful propaganda for royal policy. During his reign, cremation, which was a privilege of the nobility, began to be practised by all strata. The Pasek and Bandesa clan members continued to be entrusted with temple properties and leadership tasks.

    Nirartha

    Government, caste and religion were reformed under King Waturenggong’s priestly teacher and poet, Nirartha, who came from East Bali in 1537. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali. See the chapter entitled Names, Titles and Castes.

    Decay

    With King Waturenggong’s death around 1558, the Golden Age went into rapid decline. There were tremendous rivalries, much scheming and inevitable decay. This state of affairs continued for about 100 years until eventually a new king, Dewa Agung Jambe came to power.

    Gelgel seemed to have lost its power and was polluted spiritually, so the capital was moved to neighbouring Klungkung. The Gelgel period is therefore roughly 1400 – 1700 and the time of its dissolution was about the same time that the Dutch were becoming solidly established in the rest of the country.

    Dewa Agung Jambe became the first king of Klungkung in 1686 and was known as Dewa Agung, a title inherited since then by all kings of Klungkung. For the next 200 years the Dewa Agung was the nominal, supreme king of Bali.

    Allegiances were withdrawn from Gelgel and a number of tiny autonomous states grew up, ruled by powerful aristocrats, who claimed to be descendants of the nobles who accompanied Kapakisan from Java in 1343. They ruled as kings or princes. In the end Bali became nine small kingdoms: Karangasem, Badung, Mengwi, Gianyar, Tabanan, Buleleng, Bangli, Negara and Klungkung. (These names still exist as distinct administrations called kabupaten. Their chief executives are called bupatis). Yet they all regarded Klungkung as the highest royal authority. There was great rivalry between them, which was good for the arts and created great artistic endeavours – and still does.

    So, Klungkung is the direct heir of Gelgel and Samprangan and through them the Majapahits.

    Ubud

    There is a story about the origins of the Ubud Royal family. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Bali Aga

    It is usually said that the Bali Aga people are those who were living in Bali before the Majapahits arrived from Java, although there is no evidence for this. Read more about it in Secrets of Bali.

    Balinese History – Pre-history to the Europeans

    Culture

    Balinese Origins – Volcanoes – Civilisation

    Balinese Origins – Volcanoes – Civilisation

    Creation of the Universe

    It is thought that the universe was created by the Big Bang about 13 billion years ago. Two studies using different methods have arrived at broadly the same age. In 2002 Harvey Richter of the University of British Columbia presented evidence of fading star clusters called white dwarfs 7,000 light years away. They are burnt out coals of stars, which were once eight times the size of the sun. After they exhausted their fuel, they collapsed into balls of cooling embers. They will eventually turn cold and wink out of sight. By looking at the faintest and oldest white dwarfs, thought to be the first group of stars that formed in the Milky Way galaxy, the home galaxy for the sun, early in the history of the universe, astronomers can use their known cooling rate to estimate the age of the universe. Richter said that star formation did not begin until about a billion years after the Big Bang.

    In 1998 another method was used by the Carnegie Observatories in California arriving at an age of 13 to 14 billion years. They measured the rate at which galaxies are moving apart, an expansion which started with the Big Bang.

    It is believed that the age of the earth is about 4.5 billion years old. Matter was created from the energy released by the Big Bang.

    Oneness

    The alternative Hindu view is that the world began with Divine Oneness or perhaps Divine Nothingness. However, unlike Western religions, there is no certainty about the matter. The Brahman poets in the Rig-Veda wrote courageously of their doubts in the Hymn of Creation. Read the poem and details in Secrets of Bali.

    Early Man

    Back to the modern Western world of science: there is a debate as to whether early humans evolved in Africa and then moved to the rest of the world, or whether they evolved separately in Africa, Europe and Asia. Genetic research shows that early humans evolved in Africa.

    Man-like creatures, that is to say a creature and species separate from animals, but not yet human, archaic human or hominid, originated in Africa about 7 million years ago, when a population of African apes broke up into several groups. One of these groups, an unknown common ancestor, evolved into modern gorillas, a second group into the two modern chimps and a third group into humans.

    In 2001 fossil remains were found in Africa, which were older than previous finds by several million years. Read about these in Secrets of Bali.

    Fossils indicate that the human-like creatures became substantially upright about 4 million years ago. Body size, relative to brain size, increased later about 2.5 million years ago. From this time these proto-humans are known as Australopithecus africanus, Homo habilis and Homo erectus, and they evolved into each other in that order – probably. It is difficult to be certain whether they are in a direct line or they are branches along the way.

    The first confirmed direct ancestor of modern man is Homo erectus, who emerged in Africa about 1.7 million years ago. His brain was barely half the size of ours. In early humans the human brain occupied about 500 cubic centimeters. In Homo erectus it occupied about 900 cubic centimeters. The brain increased again between 500,000 and 200,000 years ago.

    Homo erectus was the first species to leave Africa and spread throughout the world. The other creatures stayed in Africa. Read about Homo erectus in Secrets of Bali.

    A recent excavation in Flores, which is east of Bali, has disclosed remains of human habitation dating back more than 800,000 years. His ancestor probably reached China first and then moved down to Southeast Asia. That was during a time when the seas rose and fell many times and Africa, Asia, Europe and America were one big landmass. At that time it was theoretically possible to walk from the south coast of England to Bali. Java and Sumatra were joined to the Asian mainland. The Flores discovery shows that man had learned, by that time, to build watercraft and paddle them out to sea. The nearest island was at least 19 kilometers away, even when sea levels were at their lowest.

    In October 2004 it was reported that the fossilized remains of prehistoric hominids, only one meter high, have been found in Western Flores in a cave. They have been given the name Homo Floresiensis. They had dark, scaly skin, making them a breakthrough in evolutionary studies.

    Australia and New Guinea

    Sea and the lack of sailing ability blocked off Australia and New Guinea from human penetration for a long time – until about 60,000 years ago. The Aboriginees probably came from Southeast Asia and a fair guess is that they travelled from Bali and Lombok. Bali had been inhabited for a million years. Someone must have crossed to Lombok and found that there was food, and that there were no tigers and that it was safe. They then probably moved on to Sumba when the food in Lombok was exhausted.

    Europe

    The earliest evidence of humans in Europe dates to about half a million years ago, about the time that that Flores sea trip was taking place. African and European skulls of this period are similar to ours. A new species had been born, our own, called by our own name, Homo sapiens. Read about Homo sapiens in Secrets of Bali.

    Between 100,000 and 200,000 years ago anatomically similar people to us were in Africa, but not in Europe yet. In Europe there were the Neanderthals, Homo neanderthaensis, cave-men, whose remains have been discovered in Europe and West Asia. Read about Homo neanderthaensis in Secrets of Bali.

    About 50,000 years ago there was another Great Leap Forward, probably caused by a large build up of population and environmental factors. The first modern humans appeared in Europe, the Cro-Magnons, named after the cave site in France where their bones were first found in 1868. They invented representational art, which is found in over 200 caves in France and northern Spain. They had advanced stone technology. The Cro-Magnons totally replaced the Neanderthals and all modern Europeans trace their ancestry to them.

    Evidence

    Archaeology, fossils and recently DNA are all providing evidence of man’s remote past. In 1953 two young scientists working in Cambridge, James Watson and Francis Crick, solved the molecular structure of DNA, deoxyribonucleic acid, which paved the way. Until then DNA was thought of as unimportant, but it holds the key to the chemical mechanism of heredity.  Read about DNA and mitochondrial DNA in Secrets of Bali.

    Bryan Sykes has described his genetic research in The Seven Daughters of Eve. Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Saraswati

    An alternative Hindu view of the creation of Man is that Saraswati, the goddess of poetry, brought humans into existence by the use of writing.

    It is interesting the main Western religions of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, which post-date Hinduism, also saw creation through the medium of the Word. Genesis says, “In the beginning was the Word, and the Word was with God, and the Word was God.”

    Ice Age

    Bali emerged from the seas in a series of volcanic explosions two to three million years ago.

    Over the last 2 million years there have been 17 ice ages. Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Sumatra, Borneo, Java and Bali had been connected by dry land during the Ice Ages, which enabled men and animals to migrate. After the Ice Age shallow seas formed between the islands and separated them all. Many of those on coastal plains would have drowned or seen their livelihood destroyed. Flood myths permeate many mythologies. It may be that the end of the Ice Age gave rise to these stories.

    About 11,000 years ago agriculture was invented in the Middle East and changed human life for ever. Read the details in Secrets of Bali..

    Continental Drift

    A young German meteorologist, Alfred Wegener, devised the theory of continental drift or plate tectonics in 1912. Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Bali sits on a turtle

    The alternative explanation for the cause of earthquakes is the Balinese belief that Bali sits on the back of a turtle, the world-turtle, Bedawang Nala, who occasionally stirs and sets off earthquakes. Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Balinese Volcanoes

    Mount AgungMount Agung.

    The collision of two plates produces continuous seismic activity (earthquakes) and heat. When earthquakes are large, volcanism results, often with the formation of magma or molten rock and gases. The magma or molten rock is under great pressure. Chains of volcanoes form if it is pushed up towards the surface through weak parts.

    There is an arc of volcanoes, called the Ring of Fire, encompassing Indonesia, including Java and Bali. The vents of the volcanoes, through which the magma reaches the surface, are plugged by solidified magma. This increases the pressure until there is a series of violent explosions.

    Mount Batur, about 1930.Mount Batur, about 1930.

    Periods between eruptions are unpredictable. Mount Batur, 1,717 meters (5,633 feet), is live and can often be seen smoking and rumbling. It erupted twice in the 20th century and as recently as the 1990s. Mount Agung, the highest mountain in Bali, at 3,142 meters (10,309 feet), exploded dramatically in 1963 and killed over 2,000 people.

    Volcanic ash enriches the soil. It also helps that water is plentiful. The Balinese traditionally turn a blind eye to the risk of volcanoes, perhaps blaming themselves for causing the gods to be angry. After an explosion they normally go back and try to continue farming. Life goes on.

    Some large volcanoes plug themselves so well that huge magma chambers form. When they do eventually explode, huge vacant holes, like lakes, are the result. These are called calderas after the Spanish word for “kettle”. Mount Batur is an example of a double caldera and is one of the biggest in the world. It has been partly filled by a beautiful lake called Lake Batur, the biggest in Bali, and another volcanic cone.

    Lake Batur is the source of an underground network of water channels, which feed into sacred springs on the slopes of Mount Batur. There is a tunnel running through the property, below Murni’s Villa, on the slope to the stream, which forms the western boundary to the property. We believe this comes from Lake Batur and feeds Ubud.

    1917 Earthquake

    There was a very, very bad earthquake in 1917. Ubud was flattened and the whole of Ubud palace was destroyed. No houses were left standing. Luckily it took place early in the morning when most people were already up and working in the rice fields. This saved a lot of lives.

    Indonesian Volcanoes

    There are five active volcanoes in Bali, including Batukau, 2,276 meters (7,467 feet) and Abang, 2,152 meters (7,060 feet). According to an expert from the local Department of Meteorology and Geophysics, Bali recorded 52 earthquakes in June 2002, recording an impressive 516 tectonic events in the first six months of 2002.

    Indonesia has more active volcanoes than any other country in the world. During the last 10,000 years, at least 132 have been active and 76 eruptions have been recorded (that is to say 17 per cent. of the world’s recorded eruptions).

    Tambora, on the island of Sumbawa, to the east of Bali, blew its top in 1815, killing more than 90,000 people. It is said to have created the loudest noise ever heard. It vented so much material into the atmosphere that Europe lost its summer growing season.

    Krakatau East of JavaKrakatoa, East of Java, 1969

    Krakatau, which is between Java and Sumatra (not east of Java as the movie said), erupted four times on 27 August 1883 and killed 36,000 people. Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Indian Ocean Tsunami

    Worse than any of the above was the Indian Ocean tsunami. On 26 December 2004 at 0058 hours GMT, 7.58 am local time, a strong earthquake, which had a magnitude of 8.9 on the Richter Scale, occurred off the west coast of Northern Sumatra.

    A subsequent tsunami hit South, Southeast Asia, and East Africa causing a large number of deaths and serious, widespread damage to buildings, roads, and power lines.

    Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Civilisation

    Despite the terrible effects, Bali can thank the volcanoes for her civilisation. Tropical soils tend to be poor because heavy rains wash away the nutrients. Bali, however, has been spared this disadvantage. Continuous eruptions throw fertile ash over the island.

    Mountains also cause rainfall. Moisture-laden air rises, cools and then rains. Rain falls on the south of the island. The northern third is in the rain shadow and so is rather arid. So, thanks to the mountains, Bali has fertile soil and good irrigation.

    Sacred mountains

    Sacred mountains date back to India. Mount Meru was the center of the world, where heaven and hell met. Gods, demons, and men travelled back and forth on Mount Meru.

    The islands of Java, Bali and Lombok were not stable according to legend. To stop their wobbling Mount Meru was transferred to Java where it became known as Mount Semeru. It is the highest mountain in Java. Part of the mountain was carried to Bali where it became Mount Agung and part to Lombok where it became Mount Rinjani. The god of Mount Semeru, Pasupati, is the father of the god of Mount Agung and that of Mount Rinjani.

    Mountain symbolism appears worldwide. They are reflected in the Egyptian pyramids, the Babylonian ziggurat, and the Tower of Babel. There are sacred mountains in China and Japan.

    Mountains are represented in many forms in Bali. Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Balinese orientation

    It is no surprise therefore that mountains have acquired a very deep religious significance for the Balinese. Read the details in Secrets of Bali.

    Balinese Origins – Volcanoes – Civilisation

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    Tamarind Spa

    Tamarind Spa Treatments

    At Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses, choose from a full range of spa treatments: from the heavenly to the simply divine. If you have any ailments or pains, just let them know, as they have many years’ experience of healing.

    Tamarind Spa at Murni's Houses, Ubud, Bali

    Start with the Foot Bath Ritual. It’s a relaxing and health promoting ritual. For many centuries people have been benefiting from Foot Bath Rituals in Bali to improve circulation, relaxation and detoxification.

    The organic oils we use are all made in Bali specially for the spa from 100% natural virgin coconut oil and herbs, and are available for sale.

    Tamarind Spa Sterilised Equipment

    We use the best, sterilised equipment.

    When you arrive you will be given a refreshing drink and cold towel.

    After the spa treatment, we will serve you caffeine free, organic tea. At the moment we are serving hot and cold Ginger tea with wonderful, healing properties.

    Tamarind Spa at Tamarind Spa at Murni's Houses, Ubud, BaliPlease email for the Spa Menu, Spa Packages Menu and Massage Training Menu and see our current promotions: murni (at) murnis.com.

    BODY TREATMENTS

    Balinese Massage

    Tamarind Spa Balinese Massage

    Balinese massage is a full-body relaxing, holistic spa treatment that combines acupressure, reflexology, and stretching to stimulate circulation and ease muscular and joint pain. This massage is relaxing and helps balance the energy centres and promote balance and harmony of the mind, body and soul.

    60 minutes          Rp 295,000
    90 minutes         Rp 395,000
    120 minutes      Rp 550,000

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    Relaxing Massage

    Tamarind Spa Relaxing Massage

    Relaxing massage is a full-body relaxing spa treatment that is the same as a Balinese Massage but using softer strokes.

    60 minutes          Rp 295,000
    90 minutes          Rp 395,000
    120 minutes       Rp 550,000

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    Aromatherapy Massage

    Aromatherapy massage is particularly suited to reducing stress or improving emotionally-related conditions. Aromatherapy massage uses highly concentrated plant oils, called essential oils, which are added to the massage oil or lotion. When you inhale essential oil molecules, messages are transmitted to the limbic system and affect heart rate, stress level, blood pressure, breathing, memory, digestion, and the immune system. Each essential oil has different healing properties.

    Chose one from our products:

    • calming – camomile, lavender, geranium
    • energizing – rosemary
    • uplifting and anti-stress – lemon

    60 minutes          Rp 350,000
    90 minutes         Rp 450,000
    120 minutes      Rp 595,000

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    Tamarind Spa Hot Stone Massage

    Tamarind Spa Hot Stone Massage

    Hot Stone Massage has to be one of the most enjoyable and relaxing therapeutic massages available. For hundreds of years, hot stone massage has been used for a wonderfully relaxing massage designed to work on muscle tension at the deepest level.

    First a massage, then the hot stone massage treatment using smooth, volcanic stones that have been heated in water; some stones are placed on specific energy centres along the body to align and re-balance the body’s natural energy flow while the therapist continues to perform the body massage.

    The deep relaxation and increased blood flow accelerates healing processes and creates a state of deep mental relaxation and reduces stress and anxiety. It is good at relieving muscle tension, rheumatic or arthritic conditions and back pain, while revitalising muscle tissue.

    90 minutes          Rp 495,000

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    Reflexology – Foot Massage

    Tamarind Spa Foot Massage

    This powerful and effective healing art applying gentle, firm pressure on reflex points of the feet, provides balance physically, mentally, and emotionally. Reflexology has a very detoxifying effect on the body and is extremely effective in improving sleep patterns. It boosts the blood circulation, resulting in increased energy, an improved immune system, better circulation and an overall feeling of well-being. It produces a deep state of relaxation and helps prevent of stress, depression, headaches, migraines, and back and neck problems.

    30 minutes          Rp 150,000        (just the feet)
    60 minutes          Rp 250,000       (feet up to the knee)

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    Express Massage: Back, Head and Shoulder

    Express Massage Back, Head and Shoulder

    This massage focuses on the back, neck and shoulder. It will help reduce stress and pain.

    45 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Back Massage

    Tamarind Spa Back Massage

    If you need a quick rejuvenation and are pressed for time, a back massage should do the trick.

    30 minutes          Rp 150,000

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    Four-Handed Massage

    Tamarind Spa Four Handed Massage

    Escape to a place of pure relaxation with a four-handed massage. This massage creates harmony and a wonderful sensation in relaxing and nurturing your body by combining the techniques of acupressure, long kneading strokes and skin rolling.

    60 minutes          Rp 495,000
    90 minutes         Rp 695,000

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    Deep Tissue Massage

    Tamarind Spa Deep Tissue Massage

    Deep tissue massage is a particularly effective massage for people with muscular pain. When there is muscle tension or injury, there is usually rigid tissue and pain in muscles, tendons and ligaments. This massage technique works on the deeper layers of muscle tissue. Deep tissue massage uses slower and firmer strokes and pressure than other treatments.

    60 minutes          Rp 350,000
    90 minutes          Rp 495,000

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    Lomi-Lomi Hawaiian Massage

    Lomi Lomi Hawaiian massage focuses on creating a state of bliss and deep connection. The strokes are long and flowing, often covering the full length of the body. The wave-like motion helps you drift off and you can almost imagine yourself on a seashore lapped by crystal clear waters. It is a gentle treatment but if you would like some deeper work, just let us know. The free-flowing strokes improve circulation and immune response, increase range of motion and flexibility, improve posture, faster healing, slower heart rate and lower blood pressure.

    60 minutes          Rp 350,000

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    Shiatsu

    Shiatsu originated in Japan from traditional Chinese medicine, with influences from recent Western therapies. Although shiatsu means ‘finger pressure’ in Japanese, in practice a practitioner uses touch, comfortable pressure and manipulative techniques to adjust the body’s physical structure and balance its energy flow. It is a deeply relaxing experience and regular treatments can alleviate stress and illness and maintain health and well-being.

    60 minutes          Rp 350,000

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    Manual Lymphatic Drainage

    Manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) is a type of gentle massage designed to encourage lymph drainage, carrying toxins and waste away from the tissues, aiding the body’s natural detoxification process.

    Not combined with any other massages.

    60 minutes          Rp 750,000
    75 minutes          Rp 895,000

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    FACIALS

    Traditional Facial and Gentle Massage

    Tamarind Spa Traditional Facial

    Treat yourself to this very soothing and relaxing treatment. All natural ingredients are used: honey, yogurt, sugar, white clay, cucumber and rosewater. We mix them ourselves. A gentle face, upper chest, shoulder, arm and hand massage is also given. Your skin is left feeling soft and smooth and it promotes new cell growth.

    60 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Modern Facial and Gentle Massage

    Tamarind Spa Modern Facial

    This facial is the same as the Traditional Facial but using modern facial products. We use Biokos Vital Nutrition with Bio-Aloe Vera Extract to keep your skin looking young and fresh and slow down the aging process. We give your skin nutrition to maintain its elasticity and stimulate cell regeneration – and make you look radiant.

    60 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    NAIL TREATMENTS

    Tamarind Spa Manicure

    Tamarind Spa Manicure

    This is a luxurious manicure using natural products to nourish and hydrate your hands and cuticles. A hand exfoliation and relaxing hand and arm massage is included. Your nails will be shaped and cuticles trimmed and finished with polish of your choice.

    You have a choice of OPI nail lacquers. We use OPI (a division of Wella US), the world’s leader in professional nail care, because they have a thicker formula, so they tend to be more durable than standard nail polish. They are chip-resistant and should last weeks.

    60 minutes          Rp 150,000

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    Tamarind Spa French Manicure

    This is an elegant, sophisticated, natural design loved by celebrities invented by Jeff Pink, Orly Founder, CEO and President. The nails are polished with two colours. The first colour is a neutral translucent colour that is close to peach in tone. This first colour is applied over the entire nail. The second colour is pure white applied to the tips. It looks natural and leaves the nails looking neat and well-cared for.

    60 minutes          Rp 175,000

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    Tamarind Spa Pedicure

    Tamarind Spa Pedicure

    Relieve sore and tired feet with a foot soak and reviving foot and half leg massage before the nail and cuticle work. Complete this treatment with a buff for healthy natural shine or polish of your choice.

    You have a choice of OPI nail lacquers. We use OPI (a division of Wella US), the world’s leader in professional nail care, because they have a thicker formula, so they tend to be more durable than standard nail polish. They are chip-resistant and should last weeks.

    60 minutes          Rp 150,000

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    Tamarind Spa French Pedicure

    A French pedicure is much like a French Manicure, the main difference being that the polish is applied to the toenails instead of the fingernails.

    60 minutes          Rp 175,000

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    BATH TREATMENTS AND SCRUBS

    Exfoliation and Green Tea Scrub

    Exfoliation and Green Tea Scrub

    A full body exfoliation, fragrant green tea scrub and a yoghurt rubdown. Followed by a shower. A body lotion is applied.

    45 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Balinese Boreh Scrub

    Tamarind Spa Balinese Boreh Scrub

    Balinese Boreh is a traditional herbal scrub used at the end of a hard day to relieve muscle aches, increase blood circulation and create relaxation. Boreh accomplishes this by using heat therapy combined with exotic spices that stimulate the circulation and warm the skin with an aromatic blend. It is also used as a treatment for headaches and fever.

    The history is that the hand-crushed spice would be applied on the legs of the rice farmers after a hard day’s work standing in the water tending the rice. The ingredients are a combination of powdered sandalwood, whole cloves, ginger, cinnamon, coriander seeds, rice powder, turmeric root and nutmeg, all ground in a mortar and pestle and combined with water to make a thick consistency.

    A masque of the Boreh paste is applied all over your body avoiding sensitive areas, and then your body is wrapped with a cloth to keep the paste in contact with your skin. Deep penetrating heat melts away your tension and invigorates, all the time heating and healing. The masque is left to work its magic.

    After 5 or 10 minutes we rub the skin vigorously to cause the paste to fall away, and a shower to remove the remaining paste. A body lotion is applied.

    45 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Relaxing Salt Scrub

    After a long day, this wonderfully warming blend of mineral-rich sea salts and soothing essential oils of rosemary, bay and cinnamon will help unwind body and mind. It is good way to help your body return to normal after jet lag. It will help induce sleep. It exfoliates your skin, leaving it buffed and radiant. Suitable for all skin types, especially those with dry rough skin. Followed by a shower. A body lotion is applied.

    45 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Honey Seed Scrub

    A gentle moisturizing rub using honey combined with sesame seeds. It exfoliates and removes dead surface skin. Followed by a shower. A body lotion is applied.

    45 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Coconut Scrub

    This gentle, traditional, exfoliating body scrub contains organic, virgin coconut oil. The oil gives positive energy, stimulates skin microcirculation, and leaves your skin feeling soft and smooth with a tropical coconut scent. Suitable for all skin types, especially those with sunburnt and sensitive skin. Followed by a shower. A body lotion is applied.

    45 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Tamarind Spa Mandi Lulur

    Tamarind Spa Mandi Lulur

    This treatment known as a mandi lulur was traditionally reserved for royalty and is renowned for making your skin feel soft. It begins with a full body massage, followed by a full body exfoliation scrub and a yoghurt rubdown. You finish with a cup of our signature drink, a tamarind tea with cookies, whilst relaxing in a flower bath.

    120 minutes          Rp 550,000

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    TREATMENTS FOR CHILDREN (5 to 12 years old)

    Swedish Massage

    Swedish massage is perfect for children. Swedish Massage uses a variety of gentle stroking, kneading, pressure and flowing movements over the body designed for deep relaxation.

    30 minutes          Rp 150,000
    60 minutes          Rp 250,000

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    Heaven and Earth

    Combination of 30 minutes Swedish Massage and 30 minutes Refresher Facial (Facial without Shoulder and Hand Massage).

    60 minutes             Rp 250,000

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    OTHER DELIGHTS

    Tamarind Spa Flower Bath

    Relaxing in a Flower Bath with a pot of Organic Herbal Tea and Tropical Fresh Fruit.

    30 minutes             Rp 100,000

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    Ear Candling

    Tamarind Spa Ear Candling

    Relax while warm ear candles are placed inside the ears one at a time. Ear candling can reduce headaches and leave you feeling more emotionally balanced and thinking more clearly. It is not recommended for children.

    30 minutes          Rp 130,000

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    PREGNANCY MASSAGE

    Pregnancy Massage

    Check with your doctor before having a massage if you are pregnant.

    Pregnancy Massages help the mother cope with the physiological changes during pregnancy and after delivery reduce  muscular and joint pain, and reduce edema, stress and anxiety.

    60 minutes         Rp 295,000
    90 minutes         Rp 395,000

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    HAIR

    Cream Bath

    Tamarind Spa Cream Bath

    The traditional hair cream bath is said to be the secret behind the way Indonesians keep their hair dark, soft and shiny well into old age. It dates back hundreds of years and is still very popular today – with both men and women.

    A hair wash is followed by a relaxing head, neck and shoulder massage, using a rich conditioning cream to aid circulation, release tension and relax you. Then the therapist infuses the cream into your hair, using a special hair steamer, washes, applies tonic, dries your hair and gets you ready and radiant for the outside world.

    60 minutes 

    Short hair (down to neck)                                        Rp 150,000

    Medium length hair (down to shoulders)       Rp 225,000

    Long hair (beyond shoulders)                                Rp 295,000

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    SPECIAL PACKAGES

    Murni’s Favourite Package of All Day Bliss

    Murnis Favourite Package of All Day Bliss

    • Balinese Massage (60 minutes)
    • Reflexology – Foot Massage (30 minutes)
    • Green Tea Scrub (30 minutes)
    • Yoghurt rubdown (15 minutes)
    • Relaxing in a Flower Bath with a pot of Organic Herbal Tea and Tropical Fresh Fruit (15 minutes)
    • Lunch or Dinner (30 minutes)
    • Traditional or Modern Facial (60 minutes)
    • Manicure (60 minutes)
    • Pedicure (60 minutes)
    • Slice of Murni’s Warung Homemade Cake

    6 hours          Rp 1,330,000

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    Tamarind Spa Birthday Package

    Tamarind Spa Birthday Package

    6 hours of Birthday bliss – and it doesn’t have to be your birthday – we don’t check!

    • Welcome drink, cold towel and Foot Ritual
    • Aromatherapy Massage (90 minutes)
    • Reflexology – Foot Massage (30 minutes)
    • Chocolate Scrub (45 minutes)
    • Relaxing in a Flower Bath with a pot of Organic Herbal Tea and Tropical Fresh Fruit (15 minutes)
    • Optional Lunch or Dinner (additional charge) (30 minutes)
    • Traditional or Modern Facial (60 minutes)
    • Manicure (60 minutes)
    • Pedicure (60 minutes)
    • Fresh Mixed Fruit Juice
    • Slice of Murni’s Warung Homemade Birthday Cake

    6 hours          Rp 1,450,000

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    Tamarind Spa Full Day Care Package

    Tamarind Spa Full Day Care Package

    • Balinese Massage (60 minutes)
    • Full body exfoliation scrub (30 minutes)
    • Yoghurt rubdown (15 minutes)
    • Relaxing in a Flower Bath with a pot of Organic Herbal Tea and Tropical Fresh Fruit (15 minutes)
    • Optional Lunch or Dinner (additional charge) (30 minutes)
    • Traditional or Modern Facial (60 minutes)
    • Manicure (60 minutes), or
    • Pedicure (60 minutes)

    4.5 hours           Rp 850,000
    5.5 hours           Rp 950,000 to include both Manicure and Pedicure

    We can add French Manicure or French Pedicure: add Rp 25,000 each

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    Tamarind Spa Special Bath Treatment

    Tamarind Spa Special Bath Treatment

    • Balinese Massage (60 minutes)
    • Full body exfoliation scrub (30 minutes)
    • Yoghurt rubdown (15 minutes)
    • Relaxing in a Flower Bath with a pot of Organic Herbal Tea and Tropical Fresh Fruit (15 minutes)
    • Traditional or Modern Facial (60 minutes)
    180 minutes             Rp 750,000
     
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    Tamarind Spa Treatments
    Long Stay Rental

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murni’s Villa Kelor

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murni’s Villa Kelor

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa KelorA little outside Ubud and Campuan, you’ll arrive at the rice-paddied village of Katik Lantang in south Penestanan. Penestanan is a lively village full of art, yoga and restaurants. Murni was born there and nearly everyone is related to her.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa KelorMurni recently bought this gorgeous, self-contained, two bedroomed house and has refurbished, redecorated and furnished it.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa KelorMurni’s Villa Kelor is now available for long-term rent. It is bright, airy and comfortable. It is totally fly-screened. There is an electronic safe and fiber optik wifi from Biznet and we will provide staff to keep the garden and pool clean.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa KelorPark your transport behind the secure gates and walk through the mosaiced passageway towards the welcoming Balinese statues. You enter through a traditional Balinese gate and go down some steps to the garden, pool and house.

    Walk along the paving stones between the lush, tropical foliage, heliconias and banana trees, towards the statue of Ganesha, the Hindu god, who overcomes obstacles and brings you good fortune. Ganesha is a great favourite here and the pool is straight ahead of you

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor With a pool like that it is hard to resist the temptation to dive in. There is a door at the far end of the house for easy access to the pool and the sun loungers. The pool runs alongside the house and is a great place to relax. There’s an outdoor shower, wash hand basin and lavatory at the pool.Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor The entrance to the house is through a set of double doors into the large living room. There are lots of seats and sofas in the large well-proportioned living room and good wifi throughout the property.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor On one side there is a dining table and chairs in an alcove, which has a door to the pool.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor On the other side there is a door to the double bedroom, which has windows looking on to the garden at the back.Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor The bedroom is light and airy and has a double bed, bedside tables and lamps. Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor The bedroom also has a cupboard. Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor The en suite bathroom comprises a wash hand basin, shower, hot and cold running water and a lavatory.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor At the back of the house is a veranda which is a perfect, quiet spot to read a book, relax and have a drink.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor Go back inside, glance up and enjoy the intricate local, bamboo (bedeg) ceiling.

    Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor There is a small pond with goldfish and a fountain and a separate building for the kitchen and another bedroom.Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murnis Villa Kelor The spacious kitchen has a tiled floor, lots of cupboards, worktop, stainless steel sink, an Electrolux  gas oven and a Sharp fridge.The second bedroom has a double bed and en suite bathroom. The en suite bathroom comprises a shower and lavatory.

    Map of Villa Kelor

    Map of Villa Kelor (click for a larger version).

    • Very good-sized rooms – large living room, 2 large bedrooms, large kitchen.
    • Living room has a sofa, armchairs, small tables, a dining table and 4 chairs.
    • Double beds in the 2 bedrooms.
    • 2nd bedroom in a separate building up a flight of stairs.
    • Both bedrooms have bedside tables, lamps and cupboards.
    • Both bedrooms have tiled en suite bathrooms – shower, basin and WC.
    • Both bedrooms have hot and cold water.
    • All rooms have fans or open windows.
    • All rooms have fly-screens.
    • Front and back verandas with chairs and tables.
    • Bamboo blinds to give protection from rain and heat.
    • Electronic safe.
    • All rooms have their own locks and keys.
    • Fiber Optik Wi-fi throughout.
    • Large separate kitchen.
    • Stainless steel sink, an Electrolux  gas oven and a Sharp fridge.
    • Spacious cupboards and counter space in the kitchen.
    • Swimming pool.
    • Sun lounger.
    • Balinese shrines.
    • Garden with fish pond, trees, shrubs and flowers.
    • Gardener included in the rate.
    • Separate outdoor shower, wash hand basin and lavatory.
    • Secure Parking area for a car and/or bikes.
    • Metal Gate to the road.
    • Balinese Gate to the property.
    • Sleeps up to 4 people (2 in each bedroom).

    If you are interested in staying at the Long Stay Rental at Katik Lantang Murni’s Villa Kelor, please email Murni:

    murni (at) murnis.com

    Murni's Houses

    Murni’s Houses Activities

    Murni’s Houses Activities

    white water rafting activity from Murni's Houses Ubud Bali

    Murni’s Houses Activities are for guests staying at Murni’s Houses. We are constantly adding to them.

    We will be happy to help with booking tours, classes and activities.

    We recommend booking them as soon as possible, as many of them get booked up well in advance, or have limited places.

    Tarot readingsTarot readings This special opportunity for Tarot readings is for guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa. You will visit Novi in her own house for a Tarot reading. You will be surprised by her warmth and accuracy. She is the favourite tarot reader of top government ministers in Jakarta. You pick the cards. Her … Continue reading Tarot readings →
    Mount Batur Volcano Sunrise TrekMount Batur Volcano Sunrise Trek Join us for this amazing trek on the active volcano, Mount Batur.  Starting in the dark of the early morning, ascend to the highest peak and crater for a glorious sunrise and stunning morning views. From the beautiful lake of Mount Batur, climbing up to its summit, witnessing the large … Continue reading Mount Batur Volcano Sunrise Trek →
    White Water RaftingWhite Water Rafting White Water Rafting is an exhilarating rafting adventure on the beautiful Ayung River. The river stretch is 8 km through 27 class II and III rapids in a wild unspoiled rainforest, towering gorges and magnificent rice paddy terraces. Professionally trained and experienced guides pilot safety-equipped Avon rafts through the best river runs, … Continue reading White Water Rafting →
    Elephant Safari Park Rafting Trekking and CyclingElephant Safari Park Rafting Trekking and Cycling can be booked in any combination. Enjoy an incredible experience riding and even bathing with the elephants as they take their morning bath, and that includes the babies. It’s also possible to combine this with other activities, such as cycling and/or white water rafting. Bathe and Breakfast with … Continue reading Elephant Safari Park Rafting Trekking and Cycling →
    Bali Bird WalksBali Bird Walks Bali Bird Walks will take you on a variety of trails around the countryside of Ubud. Following a brief introductory talk, we set off on our walk, for about 3 1/2 hours, 5 or 6 kilometres, and returning for lunch about 12.30 pm. Over 100 species of birds are found around Ubud, … Continue reading Bali Bird Walks →
    Bali Herbal WalksBali Herbal Walks You will be conducted on a walk amid the rice paddies of Ubud. You will discover herbs that grow along the edges of the rice paddies. You will see turmeric and coconut palms, taro plants and banana trees, lemon grass and citronella, soursop, jackfruit, pineapple and breadfruit growing side by side. We … Continue reading Bali Herbal Walks →
    Bali Hai Day Cruises: Lembongan and Nusa Penida IslandsBali Hai Day Cruises: Lembongan and Nusa Penida Islands Cruises, snorkeling or scuba diving or a boat trip to a deserted island. We can book these for guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa. Lembongan Island Reef Cruise Pick up time: 7.15 am – 7.30 am. Boarding 8.35 am – return at 3.15 pm – arrives … Continue reading Bali Hai Day Cruises: Lembongan and Nusa Penida Islands →
    Helicopter Sky ToursHelicopter Sky Tours Murni’s Houses guests can now enjoy an incredible helicopter experience flying over Bali with Helicopter Sky Tours. Perfect for an unforgettable wedding proposal! The Kintamani Volcano and Bedugul Lakes Sky Tours are stunning and a ‘must do’ while in Bali. Prices are per flight (not per person). It will just be for … Continue reading Helicopter Sky Tours →
    My Tarot Card Reading in Ubud, BaliMy Tarot Card Reading in Ubud, Bali 20 April 2015 By Paula McInerney, Contented Traveller. I had not seen Eat. Pray. Love. when I had this interesting experience, though I did know the basic premise of the story. It was when we decided to stay at Murni’s, an institution in Ubud, that I was asked … Continue reading My Tarot Card Reading in Ubud, Bali →
    Mason Chocolate Experience TourLove Chocolate? For guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa. The Mason Gourmet Chocolate Factory is located inside the stunning Koko Bambu Restaurant, overlooking scenic rice fields. Within this ‘state of the art’ factory, using only the latest Italian chocolate making machinery, you can watch the chocolate making process, starting from the cocoa bean through … Continue reading Mason Chocolate Experience Tour →
    Bali SwingBali Swing Have you ever swung over the abyss…?     Adrenaline Swing, Libra Swing, Single Swing, Bed Swing, Romantic Swing, Cute Chicken Nest, Cute Bird Nest, Sky Bed. The best location in Bali. Amazing view of the canyon and river waterfall. Enjoy those thrilling feelings, adrenaline rush, unforgettable experiences and unique pictures. Swinging time is unlimited. 8.00 am – 5 pm … Continue reading Bali Swing →
    Jungle BuggiesJungle Buggies Start your engines and get ready to embark on a journey into the jungle to experience Bali’s first and only ‘purpose-built ATV track’. This thrilling new course, spanning 4.5 km over each lap, was crafted with the hardiest adventure seekers in mind to provide an exciting and intense driving experience like no other … Continue reading Jungle Buggies →
    Jamu Class Jamu class. This is a Jamu class. You will learn how to prepare the traditional herbal drink, Balinese traditional pain relief, Balinese Body and Hair Oil and Balinese Sun Block.   The class takes about 2 hours. Starts at 12 noon. Ends at 2 pm Meet at Nadis Herbal Shop in Jalan Suetwa . The … Continue reading Jamu Class →
    Buffalo Racing, Dancing and Photography in West BaliBuffalo Racing, Dancing and Photography in West Bali  A rare chance to see Buffalo Racing in West Bali and other fascinating sights, and stay in a private house with a famous photographer, well off the beaten track. The package is 3-days 2-nights. It’s about 3 hours drive from Ubud to Tegalcangkring (depending on the traffic). … Continue reading Buffalo Racing, Dancing and Photography in West Bali →
    Bali Hai Huts: Lembongan IslandBali Hai Huts: Lembongan Island  Hai Tide Beach Resort is an award-winning beach club, resort, and spa located on the golden sands of Lembongan Island’s Mushroom Bay. The accommodation includes garden villas, traditional Balinese lumbungs, restaurants, and a spa. They also offer a variety of aquatic activities, water sports and diving. Hai Tide Beach Resort … Continue reading Bali Hai Huts: Lembongan Island →
    Downhill Mountain Cycling TourDownhill Mountain Cycling Tour Explore Bali by cycling downhill and see genuine Balinese traditional life and the unique culture of Bali while taking in the beauty of its exotic panoramas. We begin our tour by taking you to the spectacular beauty of Kintamani and on the way there, we are going to have a short … Continue reading Downhill Mountain Cycling Tour →
    Bamboo Village TourBamboo Village Tour For guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa. On the sacred Ayung River and surrounded by the lush Balinese forest, Green Village is a tranquil and peaceful compound that hosts spectacular bamboo houses and villas. Each luxury villa and house in Green Village is constructed almost entirely from bamboo, custom-designed and built … Continue reading Bamboo Village Tour →
    Bali Hai Nusa Penida AdventuresBali Hai Nusa Penida Adventures This is for guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa. Take off from Bali to Penida Island on Ocean Rafting, a 24-seat speed boat. Upon arrival experience the wonders of snorkelling at Manta Bay, explore the alluring Angel Billabong and discover the world-famous cliffs of Kelingking Beach. Followed by a … Continue reading Bali Hai Nusa Penida Adventures →
    Ubud Story WalksUbud’s Journey from Past to Present There’s no better way to explore Ubud than through its rich cultural heritage. This walk is an introduction to the history of Ubud and is perfect for first-timers in Bali. Revealing how the Balinese navigated the last 100 years, and how they’ve tapped into their culture to become a … Continue reading Ubud Story Walks →
    Photography ToursWe’ve got the best local photographer in Bali to take guests of Murni’s Houses to stunning locations off the beaten track and teach you how to take great photos. It’s suitable for beginners to professional photographers with any type of camera, including phones and tablets. And great for Instagram. Very small groups – from 1 … Continue reading Photography Tours →
    Ubud WalksUbud Walks Accompanied walks/treks for Guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa: Bali Bird Walks (can be combined with a Tamarind Spa package) Mount Batur Volcano Sunrise Trek (can be combined with a Tamarind Spa package) Trekking (can be combined with a Tamarind Spa package) Bali Herbal Walks Ubud Story Walks Book as much in … Continue reading Ubud Walks →
    Sacred Sanctuaries of Bali    Sacred Sanctuaries of Bali explores five of the island’s most revered temples, shrines, and holy places, weaving together history, myth, architecture, archaeology and living tradition. Goa Gajah, Tirta Empul, Gunung Kawi, Gunung Kawi Sebatu and The Moon Temple of Pejeng. They are all very different, very interesting and close to each other – … Continue reading Sacred Sanctuaries of Bali →
    Family Friendly Art WorkshopsFamily Friendly Art Workshops   Making Incense Workshop Learn the ancient history of incense in Bali. Our expert guides teach you to craft your own aromatic incense sticks and cones from scratch, using natural ingredients. Age: 7 years+  Glow in the Dark Paint and Sip: Blacklights Play with vibrant neon paints on canvas and watch … Continue reading Family Friendly Art Workshops →

    Murni’s Houses Activities

     

    Murni's Houses

    Sawo Apartment 2

    Murni’s Houses Sawo Apartment 2

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2Living Room

    Sawo Apartment 2 at Murni’s Houses, Ubud, Bali is on the first floor of a  new two-storey building.

    • 2 bedrooms.
    • 1 bedroom with a double bed.
    • 1 bedroom with a bed with 2 mattresses which can be pushed apart on request.
    • Both bedrooms have en suite bathrooms – shower, basin and WC.
    • Option of air conditioning in the bedrooms or open windows.
    • A living room with a Chinese Wedding Bed, a sink and a  WC.
    • Both bedrooms have verandas with views.
    • Electronic Safe.
    • Private entrance, porch and rear door to the garden.
    • Fans throughout.
    • Fly screens.
    • Free Welcome Drink on Arrival.
    • Free Fiber Optik Wi-fi (Biznet) throughout.
    • Free parking.
    • Free coffee and tea facilities in the room.
    • Books.
    • Mini-bar.
    • Breakfast and other meals.
    • Daily housekeeping.
    • Laundry.
    • Transport.
    • Tours, Activities and Classes.
    • Spa.
    • Swimming Pool.
    • Garden.
    • Dining area.
    • 24  hour security.
    • Sleeps up to 5 people.

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2Kitchenette

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2Entrance to Bedrooms 1 and 2

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2Bedroom 1

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2Bathroom: Bedroom 1

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2Bedroom 2

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2Bathroom: Bedroom 2

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 2View

    Breakfast

    Murni’s Big Breakfast is two eggs served to order, ham or bacon, toast with home made jam, yoghurt with fruit and honey, and coffee or tea. Vegetarian and Balinese options available.

    Meals

    Murni’s Warung, the first real restaurant in Ubud, which I founded in 1974, is only 5 minutes’ walk and we can deliver meals to your accommodation, if you wish.

    Check in and Check Out
     
    Check in: 2 pm.

    Check-out: 12 noon.

    Pick Up or Drop
     

    You can get a pick up or drop back anywhere, please let me know. 

    Tours, Classes and Activities 

    There’s a lot to do in and around Ubud.

    You can book tours, courses or activities (such as photography tours, helicopter tours, chocolate factory tours, cooking classes, Indonesian or Balinese language lessons, Balinese flute lessons, gamelan lessons, white water rafting, elephant safari park trip with a ride on an elephant, Bali Swing, Jungle Buggies, bicycle drive through the villages, climbing a volcano at sunrise, rice paddy trek, bird walks, herbal walk through rice paddies, tarot reading, Balinese dance classes, batik painting classes, making Balinese offerings, snorkeling or scuba diving or a boat trip to a deserted island). I’ll be happy to do this for you.

    Reviews for Murni’s Houses in Magazines, Papers and Books

    Book Now

    or

    Email: murni (at) murnis.com

     

     

    Murni’s Houses Sawo Apartment 2

    Murni's Houses

    Murni’s Houses Sawo Apartment 1

    Murni’s Houses Sawo Apartment 1

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 1

    Murni’s Houses Sawo Apartment 1 is on the ground floor of a  new two-storey building.

    • 2 bedrooms.
    • 1 bedroom with a double bed.
    • 1 bedroom with a bed with 2 mattresses which can be pushed apart on request.
    • Both bedrooms have en suite bathrooms – shower, basin and WC.
    • Option of air conditioning in the bedrooms or open windows.
    • A living room with a Chinese Wedding Bed, a sink and a  WC.
    • Both bedrooms have verandas with a view of the back garden.
    • 2 Electronic Safes.
    • Private entrance, porch and rear door to the garden.
    • Fans throughout.
    • Fly screens.
    • Free Welcome Drink on Arrival.
    • Free Fiber Optik Wi-fi (Biznet) throughout.
    • Free parking.
    • Free coffee and tea facilities in the room.
    • Books.
    • Mini-bar.
    • Breakfast and other meals.
    • Daily housekeeping.
    • Laundry.
    • Transport.
    • Tours, Activities and Classes.
    • Spa.
    • Swimming pool.
    • Garden.
    • Dining area.
    • 24  hour security.
    • Sleeps up to 5 people.

    Murnis Houses Sawo Apartment 1Living Room

    Murnis Houses Sawo Apartment 1Living Room

    murnis-houses-sawo1-living3-1240Living Room

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 1Bedroom 1

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 1Bedroom 1 Bathroom

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 1Bedroom 2

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 1Bedroom 2 Bathroom

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 1Veranda

    Murni's Houses Sawo Apartment 1View

    Breakfast

    Murni’s Big Breakfast is two eggs served to order, ham or bacon, toast with home made jam, yoghurt with fruit and honey, and coffee or tea. Vegetarian and Balinese options available.

    Meals

    Murni’s Warung, the first real restaurant in Ubud, which I founded in 1974, is only 5 minutes’ walk and we can deliver meals to your accommodation, if you wish.

    Check in and Check Out
     
    Check in: 2 pm.

    Check-out: 12 noon.

    Pick Up or Drop
     

    You can get a pick up or drop back anywhere, please let me know. 

    Tours, Classes and Activities 

    There’s a lot to do in and around Ubud.

    You can book tours, courses or activities (such as photography tours, helicopter tours, chocolate factory tours, cooking classes, Indonesian or Balinese language lessons, Balinese flute lessons, gamelan lessons, white water rafting, elephant safari park trip with a ride on an elephant, Bali Swing, Jungle Buggies, bicycle drive through the villages, climbing a volcano at sunrise, rice paddy trek, bird walks, herbal walk through rice paddies, tarot reading, Balinese dance classes, batik painting classes, making Balinese offerings, snorkeling or scuba diving or a boat trip to a deserted island). I’ll be happy to do this for you.

    Reviews for Murni’s Houses in Magazines, Papers and Books

     

    Book Now

    or

    Email: murni (at) murnis.com

     

     


    Reviews for Murni’s Houses in Magazines, Papers and Books

    Murni’s Houses Sawo Apartment 1

    Murni's Houses

    The Suite

    Murni’s Houses The Suite

    Murnis Houses Suite BedroomBedroom

    The Suite at Murni’s Houses, Ubud, Bali is on the first floor of a  two-storey building.

    • 1 bedroom with a double bed or twin beds.
    • Option of air conditioning in the bedroom or open windows.
    • A living room with a Chinese Wedding Bed.
    • En suite bathroom – shower, basin and WC.
    • Veranda with a view of the garden.
    • Electronic Safe.
    • Private entrance.
    • Fans throughout.
    • Fly screens.
    • Free Welcome Drink on Arrival.
    • Free Fiber Optik Wi-fi (Biznet) throughout.
    • Free parking.
    • Free coffee and tea facilities in the room.
    • Books.
    • Mini-bar.
    • Breakfast and other meals.
    • Daily housekeeping.
    • Laundry.
    • Transport.
    • Tours, Activities and Classes.
    • Spa.
    • Swimming Pool.
    • Garden.
    • Dining area.
    • 24  hour security.
    • Sleeps up to 3 people.

    There is a communicating door if The Room and The Suite are booked together.

    Murni's Houses The SuiteBathroom

    Murni's Houses The SuiteLiving Room

    Murni's Houses The SuiteVeranda

    Murni’s Houses The SuiteTropical View

    Breakfast

    Murni’s Big Breakfast is two eggs served to order, ham or bacon, toast with home made jam, yoghurt with fruit and honey, and coffee or tea. Vegetarian and Balinese options available.

    Meals

    Murni’s Warung, the first real restaurant in Ubud, which I founded in 1974, is only 5 minutes’ walk and we can deliver meals to your accommodation, if you wish.

    Check in and Check Out
     
    Check in: 2 pm.

    Check-out: 12 noon.

    Pick Up or Drop
     
    You can get a pick up or drop back anywhere, please let me know. 

     

    Tours, Classes and Activities 

    There’s a lot to do in and around Ubud.

    You can book tours, courses or activities (such as photography tours, helicopter tours, chocolate factory tours, cooking classes, Indonesian or Balinese language lessons, Balinese flute lessons, gamelan lessons, white water rafting, elephant safari park trip with a ride on an elephant, Bali Swing, Jungle Buggies, bicycle drive through the villages, climbing a volcano at sunrise, rice paddy trek, bird walks, herbal walk through rice paddies, tarot reading, Balinese dance classes, batik painting classes, making Balinese offerings, snorkeling or scuba diving or a boat trip to a deserted island). I’ll be happy to do this for you.

    Reviews for Murni’s Houses in Magazines, Papers and Books

    Book Now

    or

    Email: murni (at) murnis.com

     

     

     

    Murni’s Houses The Suite

    Murni's Houses

    The Studio

    The Studio

    The Studio at Murni's HousesPrivate Living Room.

    The Studio at Murni’s Houses, Ubud, Bali is on the first floor of a new two-storey building.

    • 1 bedroom with a bed with 2 mattresses which can be pushed apart on request.
    • En suite bathroom – shower, basin and WC.
    • Balcony with panoramic views to the west over the mountains.
    • Walk in dressing room with a desk.
    • Electronic Safe.
    • Spacious entrance hall with 2 armchairs and table.
    • Private entrance.
    • Air conditioning.
    • Fans throughout.
    • Fly screens.
    • Free Welcome Drink on Arrival.
    • Free Fiber Optik Wi-fi (Biznet) throughout.
    • Free parking.
    • Free coffee and tea facilities in the room.
    • Books.
    • Mini-bar.
    • Breakfast and other meals.
    • Daily housekeeping.
    • Laundry.
    • Transport.
    • Tours, Activities and Classes.
    • Spa.
    • Swimming pool.
    • Garden.
    • Dining area.
    • 24  hour security.
    • Sleeps up to 2 people.

    The Studio at Murni's HousesPrivate Living Room

    The Studio at Murni's HousesBedroom

    The Studio at Murni's HousesBedroom

    The Studio at Murni's HousesDressing Room

    The Studio at Murni's HousesBathroom

    The Studio at Murni's HousesView

    Breakfast

    Murni’s Big Breakfast is two eggs served to order, ham or bacon, toast with home made jam, yoghurt with fruit and honey, and coffee or tea. Vegetarian and Balinese options available.

    Meals

    Murni’s Warung, the first real restaurant in Ubud, which I founded in 1974, is only 5 minutes’ walk and we can deliver meals to your accommodation, if you wish.

    Check in and Check Out
     
    Check in: 2 pm.

    Check-out: 12 noon.

    Pick Up or Drop
     

    You can get a pick up or drop back anywhere, please let me know. 

    Tours, Classes and Activities 

    There’s a lot to do in and around Ubud.

    You can book tours, courses or activities (such as photography tours, helicopter tours, chocolate factory tours, cooking classes, Indonesian or Balinese language lessons, Balinese flute lessons, gamelan lessons, white water rafting, elephant safari park trip with a ride on an elephant, Bali Swing, Jungle Buggies, bicycle drive through the villages, climbing a volcano at sunrise, rice paddy trek, bird walks, herbal walk through rice paddies, tarot reading, Balinese dance classes, batik painting classes, making Balinese offerings, snorkeling or scuba diving or a boat trip to a deserted island). I’ll be happy to do this for you.

    Reviews for Murni’s Houses in Magazines, Papers and Books

     

    Book Now

    or

    Email: murni (at) murnis.com

     

     

    The Studio

     

    Murni's Houses

    Murni’s Houses Introduction

    Murni’s Houses & Spa

    Murni's Houses & SpaThe Pool.
     

    Winner of UK Luxury Travel Award 2023/24

    Travel & Hospitality Awards UK: Murni’s Houses & Spa is Winner of Boutique Hotel of the Year in Bali, 2021

    Murni’s Houses & Spa is Winner of Wellness Hotel of the Year, Indonesia, 2023/24

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    Murni’s Houses are in a very quiet part of Ubud.

    These 11 guest accommodations and spa are each designed with individual character, built in a traditional Balinese compound, where you will enjoy peaceful seclusion that’s just a three-minute walk to Ubud’s main street.

    • Free Welcome Drink on Arrival
    • Free Fiber Optik Wi-fi (Biznet) throughout.
    • Free parking.
    • Free coffee and tea facilities in the rooms.
    • Electronic safe in every room.
    • Verandas.
    • Books in every room.
    • Fans in every room.
    • Optional air conditioning in all rooms
    • Fly screens.
    • Mini-bar in every room.
    • Shower, basin and WC in every room.
    • Breakfast and other meals.
    • Daily housekeeping.
    • Laundry.
    • Transport.
    • Wheelchair.
    • Tours, Activities and Classes.
    • Spa.
    • Garden.
    • Swimming Pool.
    • Dining area.
    • Elevator in the main building.
    • 24  hour security.

    A New York Times travel writer called Murni’s Houses  one of the world’s ten best small hotels. Since then, they’ve just gotten better.

    Murni has recently added 6 luxury rooms and, very rare for Ubud,  a panoramic glass-walled elevator in The Big House overlooking the countryside: https://www.murnis.com/long-stay-rental/luxury-rooms-murnis-houses.

    Murni’s Houses is more than just a beautiful boutique hotel; it is an elegant and romantic home,  full of Balinese art in every corner.

    From the moment you book Murni will share her local knowledge and provide personal assistance to help you plan the perfect stay.

    Murni lives here and welcomes all her guests personally.

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    Murni’s Houses: No 2 on Trip Advisor in 2023, 2024 and 2025

     

    ✨ Now featuring breathtaking drone footage from a whole new perspective! ✨

    Glide over the tropical gardens and soothing pool of Murni’s Houses & Spa in the heart of Ubud.

     

    Peak Season Concerns in Ubud — and Why Murni’s Houses is the Perfect Solution

     

    1. Heavy Traffic & Congestion

    Peak Season Concerns in UbudDuring peak seasons Ubud’s narrow roads become clogged with cars, scooters, and tour buses. Travel times can double, especially around Monkey Forest Road, Jalan Raya Ubud, and Campuhan Ridge.

    Perfect Solution:  Murni’s Houses is tucked away in a quiet, green enclave — yet just a short walk from the centre. You’re close to everything, but shielded from the chaos.

     
    Murni’s Warung        200 m
    Murni’s Warung Shop     200 m
    Rice Fields    200 m
    Campuhan Ridge Walk     250 m
    Museum Puri Lukisan    350 m
    Blanco Renaissance Museum    400 m
    Ubud Palace     650 m
    Ubud Market    650 m
    Neka Art Museum   1.8 km
    Monkey Forest Ubud     2 km
     
     

    2. Accommodation Shortages & High Prices

    Peak Season Concerns in UbudMany top villas and hotels get booked up months in advance and prices surge, especially during holidays and international school breaks.

    Perfect Solution:  Murni’s Houses offers excellent value year-round. With a variety of room types, you’ll find something special — and authentic — at a fair price.

     

    3. Crowded Attractions

    Peak Season Concerns in UbudPopular spots like the Monkey Forest, Tegalalang Rice Terraces, and Tirta Empul can be overwhelmed by tourists, affecting the atmosphere and photo opportunities.

    Tip: Visit major attractions early in the morning (before 9 am) or late afternoon. For a more peaceful experience, explore lesser-known temples and rice fields.

    Murnis Bali ToursPerfect Solution: To provide the best personal service for guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa, we have created 7 specially curated tours, accompanied by an ebook Murni’s Bali Tours, Where to go, What to do and How to do it, also a paperback and audio book and YouTube videos, so that you can experience the best of Bali. Our drivers will set off as early (or as late) as you wish. We recommend early to avoid the traffic and heat and can arrange early breakfasts.

     

     

    4. Overbooked Restaurants & Long Waits

    Peak Season Concerns in UbudIconic restaurants and even casual cafés often have long waiting lists or queues.

    Perfect Solution: Murni’s Houses is only 4 or 5 minutes walk  from Murni’s Warung (which will also deliver to Murni’s Houses).

    We guarantee, exclusively for guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa, a reserved table at Ubud’s oldest and most romantic restaurant, which speciaises in authentic, local cuisine. Just let us know your preferred date and time.

     

    5. Spa Bookings are Filled Fast

    Peak Season Concerns in UbudGood spas are often booked up during peak periods.

    Perfect Solution: Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses is on-site and award-winning. Guests can walk there in a second.

     

    6. Noise & Disruption

    Peak Season Concerns in UbudSome parts of Ubud become noisy.

    Perfect Solution: Murni’s Houses, nestled among gardens and running water, is a haven of calm — even in the busiest season. Tranquil countryside in the middle of town.

     

     

    7. Peak Season Extended Stay Packages

    Peak Season Concerns in Ubud

    If you plan on staying more than 31 nights, please ask for details.

    Travel Package

    Escape to Paradise – One Price, All-Inclusive! 

    Indulge in the magic of Ubud with our exclusive All-Inclusive Travel Package at Murni’s Houses & Spa.

    For one set price, enjoy:

      • ✨ Beautiful Balinese-style accommodation
      • ✨ Daily Breakfast
      • ✨ Luxurious spa treatments
      • ✨ Airport transfers
      • ✨ Optional tours. activities and classes
      • ✨ Free Wi-Fi

    Everything is taken care of – all you have to do is relax, explore, and enjoy.

    Located in the heart of Ubud – tranquil, authentic, unforgettable.

    Book your all-inclusive escape now!

    Click here: https://www.murnis.com/murnis-houses/murnis-travel-package-ubud-bliss-getaway/

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    Gringo in Paradise wrote a review May 9, 2026
     
    San Diego, California
     
    ★★★★★ A Hidden Sanctuary in the Heart of Ubud
     

    In all my years of traveling, this has to be one of the top accommodations I’ve ever had the pleasure of experiencing.

    My time at Murni’s Houses turned out to be one of the highlights of my visit to Bali.

    From the moment you arrive, the property creates a sense of peace and serenity. The lush jungle surroundings, traditional Balinese architecture, carved teak details, peaceful pathways, and flowing water features all blend together beautifully. Extraordinary statuary, antiques, and art pieces collected by Murni over decades are thoughtfully placed throughout the property, giving every corner its own sense of discovery and character. The entire atmosphere immediately slows you down and makes it easy to disconnect.

    Located just a short walk from central Ubud, Murni’s somehow manages to feel completely removed from the chaos of town. After stepping through the entrance, the noise disappears and you’re surrounded by the sounds of birds, flowing water, and the jungle.

    The staff were warm, gracious, and genuinely welcoming throughout my stay. My room was uniquely Balinese in character, comfortable, and full of charm rather than feeling like a generic resort. The private terrace overlooking the grounds was an added bonus and became one of my favorite places to simply sit, relax, and take in the peaceful atmosphere.

    Having the spa on the property was also a wonderful convenience. Both massages I had during my stay only added to the overall sense of relaxation and tranquility that defines the entire experience at Murni’s.

    Another wonderful touch was being able to order food directly from Murni’s Warung, located just down the road, and have it delivered either to the beautiful open-air veranda and lobby area or directly to my room. The meals I had there captured the flavors of authentic Balinese cuisine beautifully. It also adds another layer of history to the experience knowing that Murni’s Warung, opened in 1974, was the very first restaurant established in Ubud.

    One of the absolute highlights was having the opportunity to meet Ni Wayan Murni herself — a true Balinese legend whose contributions to preserving and sharing Balinese culture are remarkable. Sitting down over tea and her famous fried bananas while listening to stories about Bali was an experience I’ll never forget.

    This is not the place to stay if you want giant pools, loud beach clubs, or sterile luxury. This is the place to stay if you want to actually feel Bali.

    Murni’s Houses feels less like a hotel and more like a peaceful cultural retreat hidden inside the jungle.

    Highly recommended for travelers seeking authenticity, tranquility, and genuine Balinese hospitality.

    The Mother of Ubud: Finding Bali’s Soul at Murni’s Houses

    The Mother of Ubud: Finding Bali's Soul at Murni's Houses

     

     

     

     

    For me, that moment came on my third day in Ubud, sitting across from a remarkable woman named Ni Wayan Murni, a plate of fried bananas between us, listening to her tell me the story of her life. By the time I left Bali, I understood that finding Murni’s Houses had been one of the great strokes of luck of my traveling life.

    Read the full story: The Mother of Ubud: Finding Bali’s Soul at Murni’s Houses

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    Top 3% of accommodation worldwide in 2018

    Murni's Houses & Spa, Ubud, BaliMurni says:

    “I am pleased to say that Murni’s Houses has been awarded the HotelsCombined Recognition of Excellence for 2018 in Indonesia.

    This award is in recognition for consistently achieving the highest standards of Customer Satisfaction worldwide. HotelsCombined analysed customer opinions on websites, forums and social media, resulting in an incredible score for Murni’s Houses of 10 out of a possible 10.

    Murni’s Houses now represents the top 3% of accommodation worldwide for Customer Satisfaction.”

    2018

    RECOGNITION OF EXCELLENCE

    Murni’s Houses
     
    10.0 Rated by Guests

     

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    Murni’s Houses & Spa on Instagram

     

    Murni's Houses & Spa Instragram

    We have  over 1,000 photos already on Instagram and add more every day.

    Follow along with us @murnishousesandspa for a daily look inside our peaceful Ubud sanctuary— featuring authentic Balinese rooms, award-winning spa, a serene pool, warm local staff,  fresh food, and our relaxing tropical gardens.
     

    To book

    Murni's Houses Book Now

     

     

    or Email: murni (at) murnis.com

     

    Murni’s Houses & Spa

    Murni's Warung

    Videos of Murni’s Warung

    Videos of Murni’s Warung

    This page contains several Videos of Murni’s Warung.

    Drew’s Travel Adventures – Biyahe Ni Drew is a popular TV travel show in the Philippines that takes its viewers on an adventure every week.

    It is broadcast by GMA News TV and GTV and hosted by actor Drew Arellano and has won many awards.

     

    Murni’s Warung in a Minute!

    This video is a very brief overview of what’s available in Murni’s Warung. It is part of a series, including Murni’s Warung Shop, Murni’s Houses and Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses.

     

     

    Brian and Melissa’s Balinese Blessing, Murni’s Warung, Ubud, Bali

    We can arrange a Balinese Wedding or Blessing at Murni’s Warung (as well as a Wedding Reception).

    Murni’s Warung can accommodate at least 100 people over the four levels. We can also arrange entertainment.

    Brian and Melissa from Australia close to renew their wedding vows in formal Balinese dress before a Balinese priest at a wonderful, private ceremony at Murni’s Warung to the sounds of the priest’s bell, the sacred river below and 2 Balinese tingklik players.

     

     

    Videos of Murni’s Warung

    Murni's Warung, PDF FILES

    Murni’s Warung Menus

    Murni’s Warung Menus

    Murnis Warung Menu

    new  Our great new menus:

    1. Murni’s Warung A La Carte Menu.
    2. Murni’s Warung Birthday Cakes.

    Also see Buffet Menus and Set Menus:

    1. Murni’s Warung Buffet Menus.
    2. Murni’s Warung Vegetarian Buffet Menus.
    3. Murni’s Warung Set Menus.
    4. Murni’s Warung Set Menus without drinks.
    5. Murni’s Warung Set Menu for Kids.
    6. Murni’s Warung Vegetarian Set Menus.

    To book:

    • Booking Form, or
    • Email Murni at murni (at) murnis.com, or
    • Call Murni’s Warung +62 361 975233
    • Call Murni’s Warung on Whats App +62 812 391 69648

     

     
    Murni’s Warung Menus