Bali was nominated as the second-best destination world wide, after Dubai.
London is in third place, followed by Hanoi, Rome, Paris, Cancun, Marrakech, Crete, and Hoi An.
TripAdvisor described Bali as a living postcard, an Indonesian paradise that feels like a fantasy. Soak up the sun on a stretch of fine white sand, or commune with the tropical creatures as you dive along coral ridges or the colorful wreck of a WWII war ship. On shore, the lush jungle shelters stone temples and mischievous monkeys. The “artistic capital” of Ubud is the perfect place to see a cultural dance performance, take a batik or silver-smithing workshop, or invigorate your mind and body in a yoga class.
Bali was also awarded the “world’s favorite honeymoon destination”.
A Locals’ Guide to Bali, Beyond the Tourist Crowds
To some, the Indonesian island has become synonymous with throngs of tourists, but you can still break away from the pack. Here’s how, according to four insiders.
BALI HIGH The daily kecak performance at a temple in the Uluwatu region of Bali is unique in that the musicians use their voices instead of traditional gamelan percussion instruments.Alamy
By Chris Schalkx
FEW ISLANDS serve up as varied a grab bag of holiday pursuits as Bali. On a landmass about the size of Delaware, you can seek out tranquility in the DayGlo-green rice paddies around the yogi haven of Ubud and adventure up the slopes of massive volcanoes. Along Bali’s southern beaches, nightclubs attract big-name DJs and ever-more-ambitious restaurants are popping up like mushrooms after a downpour. But the secret is out—and has been for a while. As tourist arrivals return to prepandemic numbers and more transplants put down roots, Bali’s ever-growing traffic and garbage woes have turned it into an overtourism poster child. Luckily there are as many dimensions to the Indonesian island as the number of gods worshiped in its Hindu temples. Know where to look, and you can still experience the island not only as it once was but also as it might be in a more sustainable future. Below, four locals point you in the right direction.
Murni’s Warung has been a staple for local cuisine since it opened in 1974.
The Writer: Radit Mahindro
Author of ‘Paras,’ an upcoming book about Balinese hospitality
Radit Mahindro
REAL DEAL: Murni’s Warung: The nasi campur (rice with meat and vegetables) here is the best on the island. The owner opened this restaurant in 1974, and still occasionally pops in to meet guests and share fascinating stories.
There’s no better way to explore Ubud than through its rich cultural heritage. This walk is an introduction to the history of Ubud and is perfect for first-timers in Bali. Revealing how the Balinese navigated the last 100 years, and how they’ve tapped into their culture to become a hub for traditional and contemporary spiritual practices.
The following stops:
Pura Gunung Lebah
Campuhan Bridge
9:30-10:00 am visit the Palace of Paintings, enjoy a snack and coffee break
Saraswati Temple
Price includes all guide fees and entrance tickets.
This tour is recommended for adults and children over 10 years old.
Every day (except Monday and Tuesday).
3 hours
Group Size: max 8-10 people +1 guide.
8:20 am: Meeting in front of Ani’s Villas (across from the Antonio Blanco Museum entrance). Finishes at Rumah Lempad (near Simply Social Restaurant).
Included: Bilingual guide, Entry Tickets, Map.
Note that there are uneven temple stairs, steep gradients and patchy sidewalks. Guests should be physically capable of climbing steps and prepared to walk around an urban environment for up to 3 hours.
There will be times where the weather may affect the tour start time. We operate rain or shine but if the conditions are severe, such as an intense downpour, we’ll call you before the start. Consider this part of your Bali adventure!
What to bring:
We recommend comfortable footwear.
Sunblock and sunglasses.
Water and a reusable bottle for water refills.
Umbrella, just in case.
Note that they have to book Museum Puri Lukisan and Pura Saraswati in advance. So cancellations the day before the tour are not permissible.
AN INSPIRING BALINESE WOMAN, DEMONSTRATES THAT COURAGE AND WISDOM CAN GUIDE US THROUGH THE TOUGHEST OF TIMES
by Myriam Speich, Editor-in-Chief, Instant Karma, The Mindful Traveler, November – December 2023
As the first woman to drive a car in Ubud, in a male-dominated world, she was a true pioneer, forging new paths for the women in her community.
When you reach Bali, simply mention Murni’s, and your driver will know your destination. The only question they might pose is whether you’re seeking accommodation, dining, shopping, a spa experience, or perhaps a chance to meet Bali’s most esteemed and hospitable living icon.
Ibu Murni, established Murni’s Warung, an exquisitely beautiful restaurant situated in Ubud, and later the award-winning boutique hotel, Murni’s Houses & Spa – the location for our conversation.
A trailblazer in Ubud, she became the first to open a store specializing in tribal art and antiques. Her thirst for knowledge and adventure and a passion for these artifacts propelled her to embark on extensive journeys outside Bali.
As a result, she achieved the remarkable distinction of being the first Balinese person to showcase Indonesian arts at renowned tribal art and textiles exhibitions in San Francisco.
“Congratulations, Ibu Murni, you filled your life with adventures!”
Ubud’s first real restaurant, created in 1974 by Ibu Murni, who still owns and runs it, is famous not only for its excellent food dishes but also for its art displays.
Cet établissement possède 12 maisons confortables à la décoration traditionnelle balinaise. Certaines maisons comportent deux chambres, un salon, une véranda et deux baignoires. Murni’s Houses and Spa appartenait au célèbre pionnier local Murni qui a fondé le premier r estaurant international d’Ubud en 1974, ainsi que le premier magasin d’arts tribaux et d’antiquités à Ubud. Les objets d’art ornent les murs et font du Murni’s Houses un véritable musée. Aux maisons, au restaurant et à la boutique s’ajoute un spa, propice à la détente.
The hotel has twelve comfortable houses with traditional Balinese decoration. Some have two bedrooms, a living room, a veranda and two bathrooms. Murni’s Houses and Spa belongs to the famous local pioneer Murni who founded Murni’s Warung, Ubud’s first international restaurant in 1974, as well as the Murni’s shop, the first tribal arts and antiques store in Ubud. Art objects adorn walls and make Murni’s Houses a real museum. As well as the houses, the restaurant and the shop, there is Tamarind Spa where qualified staff welcomes you in an atmosphere conducive to relaxation.
Ceramic Classes for guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa
Founded in 1996, the first professional Ceramic Studio in Ubud is a beautiful open-air studio, equipped with 6 electric wheels, a large gas-fired kiln and plenty of workspace.
HALF DAY CLASS
Introduction to working on the wheel. You will learn wedging, centering and how to make bowls and cups.
Hours: 9.00-12.00. Optional practice time in the afternoons included.
Minimum 2 people, maximum 6 people.
When scheduling a class/workshop, please take into consideration the time it takes to dry your pieces and fire them twice. The average time it takes to finish your pieces is at least 4 weeks!
Book at least a day in advance for any class.
It’s about 3 km from the main road of Ubud.
Book as much in advance as possible – they have limited space and get booked up.
Email: murni (at) murnis.com or tell Reception.
We will call them for you, check availability and reserve the places.
A day to create your own heirloom piece of silver jewelry. Skilfully guided from design through each step of the production process you will learn how to work silver into wearable art.
Five (5) grams of silver are included in the price and are sufficient to create a pair of earrings, a ring or a pendant.
This is a one of a kind creative experience. Bring your jewelry ideas to Ayu and she will help you to craft your idea into a wearable piece of silver jewelry..
Classes are at 10:00 am and 2:30 pm Mondays – Saturdays (closed Sundays).
Welcome drink – tea, coffee, or bottled water – and Balinese snacks are included.
3 hours.
Not including transport – ask Reception for that. The Studio is in Lodtunduh.
Book as much in advance as possible – they get booked up.
Email: murni at murnis.com or tell Reception.
We will call them for you, check availability and reserve the places.
Indonesian-Australian chef and co-author of recently published cookbook Paon
Tjok Maya Kerthyasa takes us on a spice-packed adventure through Bali’s kitchens, sharing her favourite hotels, bars and go-to brunch spots along the way.
Bali is home to a beguiling blend of cultures. Beyond the free-spirited surfers, clean-living nomads and style-conscious students, visitors will discover a tropical paradise rich in ancient traditions, many of which are centred around the gift of food. Intrigued to find out more about a cuisine that both honours its heritage and offers a feast for the senses, we spoke to Balinese-born chef Tjok Maya Kerthysasa. Her new cookbook, Paon, co-written with chef I Wayan Kresna Yasa, who was born on the Balinese island of Nusa Penida, is out now.
Having made it her mission to explore Bali’s kitchens and culinary history, there’s not much Maya doesn’t know about the local scene. Here, she shares her favourite way to spend a Sunday, the essential souvenirs to grab for foodie friends and her go-to restaurant for a low-key lunch.
What about a low-key lunch?
I love Murni’s Warung. It was the first restaurant of its kind in Ubud – my parents have been going there since the late-70s. Ibu Murni, its owner, is known across Bali and beyond for her contributions to traditional food, arts and crafts. Order her nasi campur, a dish of rice with spiced, slow-cooked chicken (known locally as betutu), tofu and tempeh in peanut sauce, and sambal matah, made with finely sliced shallots, garlic, chillies and house-made coconut oil.
Click on the image for larger print.
EAT
