Rama V (Chulalongkorn) (1868-1910) is one of the most revered of Thailand’s kings. Every 23 October, the anniversary of the king’s death, is a public holiday.
In Chonburi, 100 kilometres east of Bangkok, about an hour and a half’s drive from Bangkok, near Pattaya, a Buffalo Racing Festival is held on that day.
The Buffalo Racing Festival takes place at the ceremony fields in front of the Chonburi City Municipality Office. There are hundreds, perhaps thousands of buffalos and people and brighly painted kids.
2018 was the 147th year, when the province expresses gratitude to the buffalos, who have been working unpaid for farmers throughout the year.
The day starts at about 9 am in the morning with a parade through the town.
King Chulalongkorn was only 15 when his father died, so a regent was appointed until he was 20 and crowned king on 16 November 1873. He reigned for forty-two years. During his minority, he went on three study tours in 1871 and 1872 to Malaya, Singapore, Java, Burma and India with some of his brothers and half-brothers. He studied several legal codes and was impressed by the French Code Napoleon.
Chulalongkorn was a modernising monarch, whose first act was to abolish the custom of prostration before the royal presence and replace it with a bow of the head.
He strengthened the monarchy, centralised the bureaucracy under his own control, and created a modern army, an army that would later overthrow the absolute monarchy in 1932.
He bought modern rifles and built an impressive barracks beside the Royal Palace, which later became the Ministry of Defence. Chulalongkorn also created a police force.
Saraswati Day takes place on the last day of the 210 day calendar and is devoted to the goddess of learning, Saraswati, who is the wife of Brahma, the god of creation. She lives on the tip of the human tongue and on written letters of poems inscribed on palm leaf manuscripts, the lontar, and on the petals of lotus blossoms.
Her day is a public holiday in Bali. Offerings are made to books, which are covered with an ornate piece of cloth. There are no school classes but there are special ceremonies in the schools. Students pray at the shrines in the school. No letters may be crossed out or any writing deleted. Reading is forbidden.
Indonesian Satė is listed as Number 14 of the World’s 50 Best Foods according to the CNN Travel’s readers’ poll of July 2017.
Professor Murdijati Gardjito of Gadja Madha University, Yogyakarta, has recently discovered that Indonesia has 252 varieties, which stretch over the whole archipelago, except in Lampung, a province in South Sumatra, and Mandar, a group of 17 kingdoms in West Sulawesi. The origins of 175 are known.
Yogyakarta has the most varieties at 21, then Semarang, also in Java, with 12, followed by Pekalongan in North Java and Bali, both with 11 varieties.
Satė Lilit.
Usually it involves grilled meat, but some places use mushrooms, squid and tofu. In some parts they fry the ingredients and in Aceh they are boiled.
We serve two kinds in Murni’s Warung. The first is the classic version: skewers of grilled chicken, beef, fish or pork served over glowing charcoal with our home made peanut sauce and the other is Satė Lilit, Balinese-style, chicken or fish.
Balinese Flute Lessons are available for guests staying at Murni’s Houses & Spa.
No experience is necessary. Lessons are tailor-made.
The Balinese Flute called a suling is a high-pitched flute, difficult to hear above the noise, but essential for the Balinese gamelan orchestra. It is played using a circular breathing technique to produce a constant tone. The player breathes in through his nose and stores the air in his cheeks while blowing air into the instrument.
The flautist is one of the best suling players in the world and lives in Ubud. He performs at countless concerts in Bali and abroad – Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea, Tokyo, Paris, Washington DC and the USA. He was chosen to entertain the IMF and G20 delegates at their annual meetings in Bali.
He composes and first started making CDS over 11 years ago and has his own recording studio.
We play his music in Tamarind Spa and sell his CDs on line and at the Spa. Here is a song from one of his CDs.
He enjoys teaching and makes all his own flutes.
Learn how to play the suling
You will be able to play something after 1 hour.
1 person alone is fine.
Includes a free CD and coconut drink.
Making a suling
Watch the teacher make a suling and see him perform 2 songs live in his studio.
Minimum of 2 people – but 1 person alone can do it and pay double.
Includes a free CD and coconut drink.
Book as much in advance as possible. Email: murni at murnis.com or tell Reception.
We will book and check availability. Mornings are better for him. We can arrange transport for a small charge – it’s only about 5-10 minutes’ drive away (depending on the traffic).
Last Friday night in London, 5 October 2018, Sotheby’s auctioneer slammed down his gavel and uttered the famous trio of words, ‘Going, Going, Gone’ and as soon as the monosyllabic last word ‘Gone’ had passed his lips, it had indeed gone. The auctioneer had just coaxed the final bidder to offer a record-breaking £1.04m for Banksy’s most celebrated piece Girl with Balloon.
Before a stunned audience an alarm sounded inside the picture frame and the canvas passed through a hidden shredder, nestling inside the frame, neatly cutting the picture in shreds. The biggest prank in art history, apparently perpetrated by Banksy himself, raises interesting philosophical and legal questions.
What is Art? How does it acquire value? Who does it belong to? Is Girl with Balloon now worthless or is it perhaps even more valuable after the world-wide publicity it has acquired? One expert has suggested the value has increased by at least 50%. If it is valueless, does the buyer still have to pay? Are Sotheby’s liable? Is Banksy liable? The true identity of the Bristol-born artist is unknown.
Last month we came across what we believe is a Banksy in the Sorbonne area of Paris. It appeared on the wall just a couple of weeks before we saw it.
Emping are crispy, crunchy, irresistible Indonesian chips, made of tasty melinjo nuts, which are, in fact, seeds. The snacky crackers have a very slight bitter taste and once you start you can’t stop! Best served with a pinch of salt and a glass of white or red at Murni’s Houses – a must-have after a day’s sightseeing.
Stephanie Brookes is a travel writer and blogger with tales from Indonesia and beyond.
It can take a lot of searching to find a perfect spa in Ubud as there are so many choices. You can seek out the five-star, high-end establishments, set in hanging gardens and on cliff tops, but they often come at a price that is over the top. On the other hand, you may be tempted by the numerous signs that greet you at every street corner in Ubud catering for the budget-minded with US$8 massages, which are of variable quality. The place will most likely be noisy. You will often just be separated from the next person by a hanging sheet. And forget about the hygiene!
Choosing a spa around the mid-range means finding somewhere with a soothing ambience where treatments are affordable. The minute I went through the tall Balinese gate of Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses, I knew I had found a winner.
Walking into Tamarind Spa is like finding the old, authentic Bali. The Spa is set in a beautiful Balinese compound. The tropical gardens and elegant fountains and water features create a serene setting, as the sound of water is your constant companion. Nature abounds. The exquisitely carved Ganeshas and Buddhas are a reminder that you have come to a place of peace – a beautiful haven of relaxation and divine connection. Make sure you look for the tamarind tree in the garden. The spa was named after this tree.
Tamarind Spa and the adjacent Murni’s Houses are historic landmarks in Bali and the owner, Murni, is a bit of a legend in Ubud and beyond. In fact, a book has been written about her – Forty Delicious Years 1974-2014.
She is well known for her famous restaurant Murni’s Warung, which is located a short walk down the hill from the Spa. It was established over 40 years ago in Campuan, located at the old Dutch bridge, 5 minutes from central Ubud, with stunning views over the jungle gorge.
Tamarind Spa is a small, intimate facility. The professional therapists that take care of you have been trained, under Murni’s guidance, by a team of expert spa trainers from around the world. Most of them have worked at 5-star hotels in Bali and abroad. The wide range of treatments incorporate Balinese tradition and skills.
Word has spread about Tamarind Spa so, for example, in 2017 and 2018 awards included: Winner of UK Luxury Travel Guide Awards: Winner of Contemporary Spa of the Year, Indonesia, 2017 and Winner of Luxury Spa of the Year, Indonesia, 2018.
So how do you earn such prestigious awards? Murni explained, “The most important part of establishing a spa is the extensive research that must go into trying and testing the best of Bali’s masseurs and masseuses. This challenge took me one year.”
From personal experience, I recommend the indulgent Tamarind Spa Romantic Package. Mine started with a ritual flower petal footbath, followed by a heavenly one-hour massage delivered by the most intuitive hands, and by people who understand the complexities of the human body. They were able to balance the pressure points and create a gentle flow, resulting in an ultimate therapeutic experience. After the massage I had a foot reflexology treatment which helped with balancing my energy centres, creating a harmony of mind, body and soul. At this point, I was floating.
Next, came a luxurious Honey Seed Scrub. This left my skin feeling soft and smooth. Following the scrub, the paste was washed away under a warm shower, and I got to step into a gorgeous bath, filled with petals. As I floated among hundreds of petals, I was served a refreshing pot of organic tea and a platter of fresh tropical fruits.
Apart from the package, the Spa offers many other treatments. I added on another treatment – a facial. This turned out to be one of the best facials I have ever had. The natural ingredients used included honey, yogurt, white clay, cucumber and rose water. They were mixed by the therapists themselves. After my facial, my skin felt rejuvenated, and I was feeling radiantly alive.
Ear candling is also on the Spa menu. I was way overdue for one and so added this to my pampering regime. Okay, so this was now a one-day spa experience and I was up for that. Ear candling safely removes excess wax and other debris from inside the ears and leaves you feeling very balanced and for some people results in better hearing. My ear candling treatment at the Spa was combined a deep relaxation neck massage. What a bonus!
Meals are available in the beautiful, quiet garden setting of Murni’s Houses. I took advantage of that, as after my 4 hours of treatments, I was ready for a nutritious lunch.
With the combination of very high standards and the beautiful Balinese ambience, it is no wonder Tamarind Spa is an award-winning spa, and I would put it on the top of your list of things to do in Ubud.
Tips – What to Know
– Do not eat a heavy meal before a massage.
– Arrive 10 minutes early and rest on one of the lovely spa lounges overlooking the gardens. Relax into your spa treatment.
– To maximise detoxifying effects, drink plenty of water afterwards and try to avoid caffeine, nicotine and alcohol for the next 24 hours. After, make a plan to rest and allow your body to feel the healing effects of your treatment.
– A specialised Children’s Package (age 5-12) includes a chocolate scrub and 4 other treatments and finishes with ice-cream.
It’s getting on for 10 years since UNESCO recognized batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on 2 October 2009. Today, on National Batik Day, the kids in Bali’s schools are wearing batik to celebrate.
Batik forms a large, eye-dazzling part of modern Indonesian fashion. It’s great that you can wear your culture on your shoulders! Talented fashion designers are creating amazing new patterns.
A very popular traditional style is from north coastal Java, called the Pasisir style. The main centres are Cirebon, Pekalongan and Lasem, all heavily influenced by the Chinese. They are port towns and therefore absorbed outside influences. Pasisir means ‘beach’ – they are beach people and their batiks are free, colourful and flamboyant.
Cirebon is unusual. It is one of the few places where men, and not women, practise batik. The textiles have a masculine feel. Bold forms, open spaces and lack of detail. Chinese influence is clear in the best-known textiles made in Cirebon called mega mendung. These batiks of curving, undulating rain clouds are reminiscent of Chinese paintings and were originally used to decorate the royal bedchamber.
Rain clouds suggest fertility and life. The better ones have many, at least four, and maybe even seven, shades of the same colour. Colours merge from dark blue to blue to light blue to white. It can take several months to make one of these textiles since the clouds must be waxed and dyed many times to achieve the variations in colour. It is an extremely popular style.
You know Ubud is the creative heart of Bali – it’s bustling, busy and unbelievably beautiful. And while people might visit for the unique and vibrant local art, the scenery at Ubud is just as amazing as any masterpiece.
Why bother to take a sightseeing tour when you can enjoy the amazing scenery over a leisurely lunch or a romantic dinner?
Ubud has it all – jungle, valleys, waterfalls and paddy fields. Fortunately it isn’t just a feast for your eyes – the food is equally divine!
These are the dining experiences that you, and your photo album, will remember forever!
The Queen of Ubud – Murni’s Warung
Everyone in Ubud knows Murni’s – ask any taxi driver and they will take you to her fantastic hillside restaurant.
Murni’s Warung is iconic; it’s almost as well known and popular as Ubud itself.
Murni opened her little Warung with just 1 table, 2 chairs and an icebox in 1974, and her devoted and ever growing number of satisfied customers has been increasing ever since.
The restaurant now sprawls over four levels down the side of a steep valley – land that used to be farmed by Murni’s father.
Murni’s Warung by the roadside on level 1, and immediately look out on to the luscious hillside greenery. If you want to be by the river, then descend down to level 4 and find a table on the terrace. The lazy river snakes past below you, and in front of you is a sprawling wall of foliage.
The only reminder of modern day life is the bridge above you; which makes the valley haven look and feel even more precious.
Murni’s serves a wide variety of homemade dishes with plenty of external influences from travellers that Murni has met over the years. Daily specials ensure that you never get bored of the menu – no matter how many times you go back!
The best thing? You can order as many desserts as you want and be guilt-free as a good workout is available via the steep stairs down to the river.
If you love Murni’s Warung, make sure to check out her guesthouse and craft shop for a truly authentic Balinese experience.
Bali: Transformational Travel, Rediscovering You by Denise Baron, Bella, The Fashion Issue, September 2018
It’s no secret that travel changes perspective. For many, a simple vacation is all it takes to catch up on fun and rest. But when your main goal is to search “within”, a worldly discovery can lead to massive self-unfolding.
“Transformational Travel” embodies “Don’t try to change the world, let the world change you”.
This year, I took those words to heart. After experiencing a stroke at the young age of 49 and burying a dear friend, I desperately needed new introspections. Long before the literary arrival of “Eat Pray Love” I had traveled to Bali. And twenty-seven years later I found myself being called back.
Renewed hope
When I arrived I’m greeted with a welcoming hug by one of Bali’s best connectors, Wayan Elly, a connoisseur of food and gourmet coffee who is the absolute embodiment of a concierge. A charismatic storyteller wise in the secret back roads, we drive to my first destination, Sanur.
Once known as a fishing village, Sanur is internationally recognized for its historical charm, a laid-back coastal community with bespoke villas, eclectic cafes, artifact shops and local entertainment. I listen to limpid waves kiss the shores and my recent hardships understand they’ve lost the spotlight in my mind.
Strategically located in the heart of Sanur, the Maya Sanur Resort & Spa is a synergistic atmosphere that merges nature with contemporary design. Intimate spaces mixed with Balinese aesthetics offer a lush representation of the beauty and richness of Indonesian traditions designed by internationally recognized architect, Budiman Hendropurnomo.
New friends find you quickly in Bali and I pal around with my Kiwi and Aussie mates for a beer and local Indonesian bites. Here, I’m introduced to Bali’s best-kept secret: Suana, the Healer from Sanur.
Suana is a humble man with a global clientele. Over the course of seven lymphatic massage and reflexology sessions, his hands have the power of the Divine. My body feels renewed from tired sensibilities to eagerly hopeful and receptive.
A few sun-soaked days of bike riding, eating bowls of fresh mangosteen and dragon fruit and devouring tasty tacos at Warung Sanur Segar and I’m feeling rested enough to hit the road toward the holy hills of Ubud.
Unwind at Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses – Ubud
Secluded upon a hill along the Ayung River, Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses is an award-winning spa. This center for healing is in the heart of the deepest spiritual hub on earth.
Owned by local legend and “Mother of Ubud” known simply as Murni, a gracious businesswoman who hosts celebrities like Mick Jagger, Amy Tan, and Alice Walker in her bungalows and renowned restaurant Murni’s Warung. With Murni’s strong reputation for cultivating healing methods, I book 3 days and 2 nights in an old-world meets luxury spacious suite.
Pampered with curated oils, the massage therapist hands work their magic with a two-and-a-half hour massage to synch my still troubled body and mind. Followed with a fresh yogurt body scrub and, then, the finale in an exquisite flower bath.
Later, I walk to the center of town in search of Siam Sally to experience their delicious summer rolls and papaya salad. After a day of local culture, I squeeze in a Full Moon Agnihotra Vedic Fire Ceremony at the Five Elements Retreat Center.
Committed to a social media detox, I enjoy my time joining walking tours and sipping fresh mixed juice. My mind and body absorb the natural elements and release the constant battle of stress. I notice my heart is in rhythm with Bali, and for the first time in a long time, there isn’t tightness behind my eyes. The pain of the past year begins to slowly fade away.
Sample of ancient healings.
My driver takes me on a 30-minute ride up the misty-cloaked mountains and ancient emerald-green rice paddies to a hidden sanctuary called OneWorld Ayurveda. This authentic Panchakarma Ayurveda wellness retreat center is where splendor meets serenity. Senses come alive with the lush bougainvillea, delicately scented hibiscus and intoxicating aroma of frangipani as you enter the resort.
Upon my arrival, I’m greeted with fresh juice and a beautiful flower arrangement then escorted to a one-hour foot massage for my “Taste Of Ayurveda” package. Afterward, I dine under the stars in the warm evening breeze.
The next morning a full initial consultation with an Ayurvedic physician is planned, along with a full-body treatment and Shirodhara. Shiro helps relieve anxiety, stress, fatigue and hypertension.
For the next three days, motherly professionals begin each treatment with a blessing and singing mantra. Anointed with copious amounts of herbal oils helps me appreciate the connective power of human touch. I was placed gently into a copper tub filled with medicinal herbs. Two holistic therapists pour warm water over my body. During this experience, tears rolled down my face as I felt my spirit come home to my body.
The environment is hypnotic to the senses. Singing birds, intoxicating smells from the frangipani flower, gamelan drums and parades that pop out of out nowhere unify the five senses in their finest moments. I attend the holy Tirta Empul Temple traditional purification ceremony. Legend has it a magical king named Mayadenawa possessed the spiritual power to transform himself into any form he desired within the clean cool springs. There are some legends you really can feel the truth behind.
In addition to yoga, three delicious vegan meals per day, meditation, and guided rice field walks, I also I signed up for healthy cooking and beauty between services for skills to take back home.
The end is only the beginning of something newBali was a spiritually orgasmic journey where one can embrace their authentic vulnerability. I highly recommend anyone in search of higher awareness to discover your own brilliance with Bali as your guide.
So take a break from the temples, the boutique shopping and the bucket list adventures for a moment, because you’ll want a taste of the best restaurants in Ubud. From gourmet to gastro, vegan to carnivorous, this fascinating neighbourhood has it all (cocktails included!)– no matter your budget or foodie fancy.
Ask for Murni’s when you arrive in Bali and your driver will know right where to take you. Murni opened her little Warung with just one table and two chairs back in 1975, but today, this legendary restaurant sprawls over four open-air levels down the side of a steep valley. Choose to dine by the roadside or by the river – either way you won’t be disappointed as the homemade dishes are on another level, with different specials everyday. Murni’s has attracted a number of high profile clientele over the years, drawing in the celebs with her sweet & sour shrimp, Balinese duck and chicken curry.
Think that Ubud is only yoga studios, rice paddies and Balinese temples? Think again.
Busy by day, peaceful by night, Ubud isn’t really known for it’s raging nightlife – but know where to look and you’ll find a growing number of trendy watering holes (and a few old favourites) dotted around town for the after hours crew. Here’s 9 of the very best for you to whet your whistle at.
The Bar at Murni’s
One of Ubud’s true hidden gems, this atmospheric cocktail bar is hidden down a few flights of stairs below Murni’s restaurant – one of the first ever to open in the area over 30 years ago. Its magical ambiance harks back to a forgotten era of Bali, and a tried and tested cocktail list ensures you’ll end up staying way longer than you expect.
Murni has added a new building with new rooms at Murni’s Houses.
“Murni’s Houses is a family business. We are hands on. Every detail is considered by me personally. I live here myself, so I want everything to be perfect. We aim for excellence in everything. ” Murni
There are 6 new, bright, spacious rooms.
3 minutes walk from Campuhan Ridge and rice paddies.
5 minutes walk from the centre of Ubud.
Highest standards of construction.
Architect designed.
All house blessing ceremonies have been carried out.
Quiet.
Views of the mountains and volcanoes.
Luxury Rooms at Murni’s Houses
Sleep up to 2 people each.
Very comfortable beds – top quality matresses and pillows.
All buildings must be brought to life and purified before they can be occupied in a ceremony called melaspas.
The wood, stone and thatch, cut down and killed for the construction, are, as it were, reincarnated.
All parts are symbolically unified; posts and beams are ‘married’.
Melaspas – Bringing Buildings to Life in Bali requires many offerings and there are animal sacrifices. If a ceremony is not carried out the house lacks luminosity. Evil forces can enter and cause sickness. The ceremony is nearly identical to the ritual required to bring a sacred wooden mask to life.
In A House in Bali (1947) Colin McPhee recounts his conversation with the priest prior to his own house ceremony:
You need the great ritual, he began, the highest one, and it will take many offerings, and a month to prepare. For this you will slaughter one young bull, one goose, one goat, one dog with a three-coloured hide, one duck with similar markings, one young male pig, one chicken with feathers growing the wrong way, five hens of different colours, and twenty-five ducks. You will also need six hundred duck eggs, six hundred bananas, and five thousand Chinese cash. The offerings prepared in advance will include two roast pigs, ten roast chickens, ten roast ducks, five baskets of rice, flowers and cakes, and five skeins of thread in five colours.
Not quite as elaborate as that but a full day nevertheless and the new building at Murni’s Houses, complete with swimming pool, elevator and gallery was brought to life. It is recommended that someone sleeps in the building the same night, and that was done too.
The new building with its luxury rooms facing the mountains of Bali is ready to take guests now.
It’s Cool to be a Jesuit – St Anthonys Church, Yogyakarta, Java
Pope Francis is a Jesuit and he’s cool. He’s the first Jesuit pope since St Ignatius of Loyola and six other students from the University of Paris formed the Society of Jesus in 1534 nearly 500 years ago .
Pope Paul III allowed them to become priests in 1537 and three years later he granted them the right to become their own order.
Then and now members of the Society of Jesus take three vows: poverty, chastity and obedience – and obedience to the Pope. So Pope Francis has vowed to obey himself. Isn’t that cool?
Ignatius dispatched his priests throughout Catholic Europe to set up schools, colleges and seminaries. By his death in 1556, the Jesuits had founded 74 colleges on three continents.
St. Francis Xavier (1506-1552) expanded the Church’s presence in Asia, mostly in the Portuguese Empire. He was the first Christian missionary in Japan, Borneo and the Moluccas.
The Jesuits in Indonesia have developed a distinct identity. In general, they are keen on high-quality education and being close to local and national elites. There is a highly-regarded Jesuit university in Yogyakarta: Sanata Dharma University.
The numbers were expanding so Father Xaverius Strates arranged for a new large church to be built in the Dutch colonial style surrounded by trees. The Church of St Anthony of Padua, better known as St Anthonys or Kota Baru Church, was finished on 26 September 1926. It can seat at least 2,000 people. Six new priests were ordained at St Anthonys in July 2017.
St Anthonys is firmly on the tourist list for religious sites in Yogyakarta, along with mosques, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, 9th century Borobudur, and the most beautiful Hindu temple in the world, 10th century Prambanan.
Biblical paintings decorate the inside walls in the local style. Behind the altar under the gaze of a religious statue sits an impressive Indonesia gamelan orchestra. Outside the area has interesting old buildings and friendly people. There’s also one of Sanata Dharma University’s campuses.
In Chonburi, 100 kilometres east of Bangkok, about an hour and a half’s drive from Bangkok, near Pattaya, a Buffalo Racing Festival is held on that day.
The Buffalo Racing Festival takes place at the ceremony fields in front of the Chonburi City Municipality Office. There are hundreds, perhaps thousands of buffalos and people and brighly painted kids.
2018 was the 147th year, when the province expresses gratitude to the buffalos, who have been working unpaid for farmers throughout the year. 
The day starts at about 9 am in the morning with a parade through the town.
King Chulalongkorn was only 15 when his father died, so a regent was appointed until he was 20 and crowned king on 16 November 1873. He reigned for forty-two years. During his minority, he went on three study tours in 1871 and 1872 to Malaya, Singapore, Java, Burma and India with some of his brothers and half-brothers. He studied several legal codes and was impressed by the French Code Napoleon.
Chulalongkorn was a modernising monarch, whose first act was to abolish the custom of prostration before the royal presence and replace it with a bow of the head.
He strengthened the monarchy, centralised the bureaucracy under his own control, and created a modern army, an army that would later overthrow the absolute monarchy in 1932.
He bought modern rifles and built an impressive barracks beside the Royal Palace, which later became the Ministry of Defence. Chulalongkorn also created a police force.
