So take a break from the temples, the boutique shopping and the bucket list adventures for a moment, because you’ll want a taste of the best restaurants in Ubud. From gourmet to gastro, vegan to carnivorous, this fascinating neighbourhood has it all (cocktails included!)– no matter your budget or foodie fancy.
Ask for Murni’s when you arrive in Bali and your driver will know right where to take you. Murni opened her little Warung with just one table and two chairs back in 1975, but today, this legendary restaurant sprawls over four open-air levels down the side of a steep valley. Choose to dine by the roadside or by the river – either way you won’t be disappointed as the homemade dishes are on another level, with different specials everyday. Murni’s has attracted a number of high profile clientele over the years, drawing in the celebs with her sweet & sour shrimp, Balinese duck and chicken curry.
Think that Ubud is only yoga studios, rice paddies and Balinese temples? Think again.
Busy by day, peaceful by night, Ubud isn’t really known for it’s raging nightlife – but know where to look and you’ll find a growing number of trendy watering holes (and a few old favourites) dotted around town for the after hours crew. Here’s 9 of the very best for you to whet your whistle at.
The Bar at Murni’s
One of Ubud’s true hidden gems, this atmospheric cocktail bar is hidden down a few flights of stairs below Murni’s restaurant – one of the first ever to open in the area over 30 years ago. Its magical ambiance harks back to a forgotten era of Bali, and a tried and tested cocktail list ensures you’ll end up staying way longer than you expect.
“The countryside is all around Ubud if you just know where to look: get out there with the Bali Bird Walk (US$37). Curious travellers will find the tour worth every dollar: as you stroll through the rice fields you’ll spot egrets, herons, kingfishers and amphibians, and learn about the traditions that have shaped these ancient landscapes. The tour includes an Indonesian lunch at Murni’s Warung (Jalan Raya Campuhan), Ubud’s first real restaurant, dating all the way back to 1974; the nasi campur (rice with a range of vegetables and curries) is a classic choice. ”
Murni’s Warung, Ubud – Smile inflight magazine for Cebu Pacific Airways, November 2017
Famed for its pristine beaches, striking sunsets and rich culture, the sought-after Indonesian destination also boasts a burgeoning number of highly lauded hotels, restaurants and bars. Meredith Woo goes on a gastronomic eight-day journey to the Island of the Gods.
An Ubud Invitation
An hour from the closest beach town, inland Ubud offers other attractions: art and culture, serenity and some of Mother Nature’s best views.
A day trip to the central foothills of Gianyar regency will not suffice. Ubud has so much more to offer – from meditative sunrise mountain peak views to villages known for intricate silver-smithing and the delicate craft of egg painting.
SHOP AND SAVOUR
If you seek museum quality relics, visit Murni’s Warung Shop. A plethora of rare pieces such as a Balinese comb bearing green and red carnellians (Rp 5,750,000) and intricate batik stamps (from Rp 385,000) feature in this 41-year-old establishment, which is part gallery.
The adjoining four-storey restaurant offers daily specials such as stir-fried duck (Rp 79,000) and beef rendang. Beyond Murni’s expertise in Asian antiques, textiles and food, she has expanded her portfolio to include a spa and guest houses in downtown Ubud.
The ultimate palms and paradise destination? There are many, and Bali is definitely on the shortlist. But there’s more to the Indonesian island besides white-sand beaches and clear blue water…
For me, the town of Ubud is the best place to base myself. I find myself among the tranquil, terraced rice fields and beautiful mountain scenery … my adventurous week … aimed at exploring and experiencing Bali’s local way of life.
Rejuvenation treatment
The next day, my body tells me it is time to take a rest. I book a three-hour relaxation and rejuvenation treatment at Murni’s Tamarind Spa in Ubud. Locally, Murni is affectionately known as ‘the Mother of Ubud’. She pioneered tourism in Ubud in the 1970s by setting up her legendary restaurant, Murni’s Warung, where artists, adventurers and academics hung out, drinking mango lassies. 42 years later, Murni still lovingly presides over her dream creation on the jungle-clad Campuan Gorge above the Wos River. The stellar-rated Tamarind Spa is the latest addition to Murni’s business. Under a beautiful tamarind tree, I find out that my massage therapist, Kartini, was the former personal therapist of the President of the Seychelles.
After a welcome drink, cold towel and foot ritual, Kartini starts to weave her therapeutic magic on me. She begins with an hour-long traditional massage, deeply relaxing, mind- soothing and muscle-relieving. A full-body exfoliation follows, with a fragrant green-tea scrub and a yoghurt rub down. After that heavenly treatment, my skin feels softer than that of a baby. I end up soaking in a warm bath with multi-coloured flower petals floating on the water’s surface. Finally, after a pot of organic herbal tea and fresh tropical fruit, I leave feeling relaxed as can be.
Places to eat
Murni’s Warung
This four-level open-air restaurant overlooks a jungle- clad ravine and raging river. Not only does the restaurant serve excellent Indonesian and western dishes, it also houses a shop with textiles, jewellery, tribal artefacts and collectables. Try their famous apple pie.
Things to do
Murni’s Tamarind Spa
Located in the heart of Ubud, this beautiful spa in quiet tropical gardens offers aromatherapy massages, traditional Balinese boreh herbal scrubs and more.
“Face à la gorge à Murni’s Warung: En 1974, Ni Wayan Murni ouvrait le premier restaurant d’Ubud, où elle servait un mélange de recettes occidentales et balinaises. Depuis, des generations de touristes ont savouré la qualité de sa cuisine. Face aux rochers coverts de mousse de la gorge entroite de Campuhan, les quatres étages en terrasses semblent hors de ce monde. Les petits déjeuners sont extraordinaires, et à toute heure vous apprécierez les spécialités locales, les plats végétariens, les yaourts maison, les jus de fruits et les gâteaux inoubliables.”
“Murni’s Warung: Das bekannteste und schönste Restaurant Ubuds findet sich am Ortsausgang (Campuan) an einer alten Hängebrücke (parallel verläuft die neue Strassenbrücke nach Kedewatan). Das Restaurant ist in den Abhang einer Sclucht gebaut und bietet Sitzmöglichkeiten auf drei Etagen. Die seit langem etablierte Gaststätte hat sich dem westlichen Essensgeschmack angepasst: Auf der Karte stehen neben indonesischen Speisen auch joghurt und Sago-Pudding, Guacamole und Lasagne, ebenso eine grosse Auswahl von hausgemachten Torten und Kuchen.”
Merian Live! Bali Reisen mit Erlebnis-Garantie – 2002
“Murni’s Warung: Sur Jalan Raya Ubud juste avant le pont. Tel: 975233. Bien indiquée de la route. Pleusieurs niveaux, une boutique, un bar-salon… terasse dominant la rivière et l’épaisse vegetation. Superbe addresse où curries, poisson, viande et desserts sont realisés avec brio. Également cuisses de grenouilles, gaspacho et d’autres choses originales et raffinées.”
“Murni’s Warung: Beside a small ravine just outside Ubud, this multi-level restaurant is spacious yet intimate. The street level dining room has terrific views (particularly of a nearby waterfall), as does the downstairs bar. Throughout the shadowy wood interior is complemented by simple bamboo furniture and Indonesian art, creating a rustic and very Balinese feel. Both Indonesian and Western dishes are served, and special buffets are available on Western holidays. The Balinese duck – stuffed with spices and baked so thoroughly that the meat falls off the bones – is tried and true. The friendly, cheerful staff are ready to offer advice on local activities or simply rock babies while parents eat. A shop on the upper floor is a veritable gallery of Balinese items. Murni’s also has some accommodation, including two rooms, a bungalow and a house – all moderately priced.”
“Murni’s Warung down by the Campuhan Bridge is one of just a few places which have been catering for travellers since they began to come to Ubud in the 1960s. The warung is actually a restaurant with an excellent menu of traditional and Western-style food, including mouth-watering delicacies such as frozen banana cheesecake.”
“Murni’s (tel: 975233) located over the Campuhan River can’t be beaten – there are now three levels of seating, the grill is open for scrumptious barbecues of fish, prawns and chicken.” [Now four levels]
Where to Eat: Murni’s Warung Insider’s Guide to Ubud Delicious, voted the World’s best food magazine, March 2005
“This three-level restaurant is an Ubud institution. The freshly baked breads are delicious, especially in a chilli club sandwich, and you can sit on the top terrace for curries, burgers, hot dogs, steaks and more. For dessert, you’ll want to stay for the cakes and the homemade yoghurt and ice cream.”
“Since 1977 Murni’s Warung has been an Ubud favourite. The setting is beautiful and a four level dining room overlooks the lush river valley. Indonesian dishes, curries and Western options are available. There’s a cosy bar on the second level down. One quibble: the gift shop gets bigger every year!”
“In 1974, Ni Wayan Murni opened Ubud’s first restaurant, where she served a mix of Western and Balnese food. Since then, generations of travellers have enjoyed the quality of her cuisine. Despite increasing road traffic, the four open-air levels facing the splendid river gorge offer absolute tranquility in a totally out-of-this-world atmosphere. It’s a most pleasant place for a great healthy breakfast (Rp 45,000) or dinner (Rp 75,000). Vegetarian meals, home-made yoghurts, fantastic fruit juices, cakes, and pies are also on the MSG-free menu.”
“As you approach through the highly-carved Balinese doors, you know you are in a place dedicated to the finer things of life…”
One evening recently, I decided to meet up with my old friend, Renée, and dine in Ubud’s oldest restaurant; Murni’s Warung. It’s above the sacred Campuhan River, just beside the old Dutch suspension bridge, facing a spot-lit wall of tropical trees. There is a real Murni and old Asian hands know her well. I was hoping she would be there.
As you approach through the highly-carved Balinese doors, you know you are in a place dedicated to the finer things of life. We resisted the almost irresistible temptation to go into her shops, which are on either side of the doors and which house her treasures. Murni is a well-travelled collector, who brings back amazing things.
Walking past the famous cakes, and making a mental note for later, we made our way to the little-known, comfortable Lounge Bar for cocktails: a Mojitos for me (tall, minty, thirst-quenching) and a Melon Colada for Renee. This is a great place to unwind, listen to great music, perhaps meet an old friend passing through and take in some amazing art. I particularly admired the primitive stone statues from East Sumba.
We both like gardens, ponds and shrines, and the sound of running water, so, after the drinks, we made our way down to the bottom level, through the third floor, which is often used for banquets and which we’ve named The Elephant Room, because it has so many Ganeshas, the God much loved by the Balinese. I would really like to get the new bronze one, commissioned by Murni five years ago and which has just been finished. It’s almost 6 feet tall and a whopping 500 kilos. I’m saving up for the deposit.
We sat down and spotted a few famous people. I think they recognized me too!. The menu is extensive and has not only the Indonesian favourites, but also a very good selection of Western dishes. There are also a number of Thai-inspired dishes, which tend to be specials, and change daily.
I decided to go Indonesian, opting for the mini-lumpia (delicious, crisp spring rolls served with sweet and sour and peanut sauces); an excellent choice – light and tasty. Renee ordered a creamy pumpkin soup, which was nutty and full of flavour. Murni was in the restaurant, presiding lovingly over her creation. She came over, smiling, to our table and explained that the pumpkins were organically grown on her property, Murni’s Villas, in the foot-hills of Mount Batur.
For the main course, I ordered the Bebek Betutu, traditional Balinese smoked duck and Renee chose Western fare, the Chicken Dijon. This proved to be a tender, juicy chicken breast, sautéed in white wine and finished with a cream and Dijon mustard sauce, steamed green beans and honey-glazed carrots on the side. My duck was perfect – meat falling off the bone, not at all fatty like ducks in the West, steamed saffron rice, vegetable lawar and a tasty duck consommé.
I’ve forgotten to mention the small but perfectly sufficient wine list. I chose an Australian Chardonnay, which was very reasonably priced and perfect with the duck. Renee wanted to try a local tipple and went for the Brem Merah, home-made Balinese rice wine, served with a squeeze of lime. The brem was hailed as “delicious!”
A quick look at the menu confirmed that deserts were a must. Murni has always been well-known for her baked on the premises cakes and pies, but I couldn’t get past the cheese cake with fresh strawberry coulis. Tangy lime and strawberries made this the perfect finish for an already memorable meal. Renée chose the Balinese Black Rice Pudding, creamy rice cooked in coconut milk, pandanus leaf and topped with grated palm sugar. Renee loved it. And the rice really is black!
What else? Well, we returned to the Lounge Bar to complete the night with espressos, served with sweet spice and vanilla biscuits. Settled back on the sofas, who could resist a liqueur? Not us! Two Benedictines please.
Oh yes, the bill. The three-course food bill for both of us came to Rp. 201,500 before tax and service, which was very reasonable. I’ll not mention the drinks bill as we had some I haven’t told you about!
After all that feasting, we really appreciated the free transport back to our hotels and a great night’s sleep.
“Face à la gorge à Murni’s Warung: En 1974, Ni Wayan Murni ouvrait le premier restaurant d’Ubud, où elle servait un mélange de recettes occidentales et balinaises. Depuis, des generations de touristes ont savouré la qualité de sa cuisine. Face aux rochers coverts de mousse de la gorge entroite de Campuhan, les quatres étages en terrasses semblent hors de ce monde. Les petits déjeuners sont extraordinaires, et à toute heure vous apprécierez les spécialités locales, les plats végétariens, les yaourts maison, les jus de fruits et les gâteaux inoubliables.”
