Walking Tour of Rye, the Most Beautiful Town in England
Walking Tour of Rye, the Most Beautiful Town in England by Jonathan Copeland
Rye, 70 miles south of London, is a small town, rich in history, and numerous well-preserved historical buildings. The town is just the right size to go on a walking tour. This guide takes you to every important building and explains it and directs you to the next one.
There are stories of French raids, piracy, murder, plague and Royal visits.
The historical background is set out in brief history lessons to read on the tour or at home.
77 landmarks described.
There are over 100 photographs.
Published: August 2012
Bibliography
161 pages
US$7.85
If you don’t have a Kindle, you can read it as a pdf file, and either way you can read the first 10% as a free sample on the Kindle Store on Amazon.
Start reading Walking Tour of Rye, the most beautiful town in England in under a minute.
Jonathan Copeland
BIBLIOGRAPHY
RYE MAP
Reviews
A guidebook that makes you wish to visit the place!!!
June 25, 2015
A delightful book about a delightful town! We literally used the book step by step!
What I especially liked were the short “history lessons”, spiked with saucy, little scandal tales! I wish my history professor in school was like that, it would have made me like history much more!
I usually do not like guidebooks that are written endlessly long. this one was so interesting, that I was sorry when I finished it!
Cornelia Bock
Just like being there
11 September 2012
In reading Jonathan Copeland’s “Walking Tour of Rye, the most beautiful town in England,” I felt as though I was right there rather than sitting at my desk in Australia. It came as a surprise to me that this town should have accumulated such a big slice of the history of England over the years. Well done!
Quince D
A Walk Around Rye
Walking Tour of Rye, the Most Beautiful Town in England
The Bangkok Story, an Historical Guide to the Most Exciting City in the World by Jonathan Copeland
The Bangkok Story traces the history of Bangkok up to the present day, and describes and places the main buildings in the city in context, to explain to the visitor their meaning and relevance, something that the usual guide books do not cover. There are a lot of places not mentioned in other books. There are directions on how to find them and their opening hours.
Jonathan Copeland
483 pages
Over 400 colour photographs
Glossary
Bibliography
“Jonathan Copeland lifts the lid on the planet’s most captivating metropolis – every page offers the reader a highly delicious serving that will keep you coming back for more and more!”
Vinder Balbir, owner of Mrs Balbir’s Indian Restaurant, Bangkok
“The Bangkok Story tells the story of the most interesting city in the World – brought to life by more than four hundred glorious photographs.”
Marc Pettibone, art collector and dealer and long-time resident of Thailand
“My favourite book about my favourite city”
Stephanie Brookes, Travel Writer
“When I step out the door, The Bangkok Story is my constant companion.”
Gavin Gough, freelance travel photographer based in Bangkok
“The Bangkok Story – like the great city itself – is irresistible.”
Dr Rob Goodfellow, author, journalist, researcher and academic
Secrets of Bali, Fresh Light on the Morning of the World by Jonathan Copeland with Ni Wayan Murni
Published by Orchid Books
Incredibly, ancient Balinese cultural traditions remain richly intact today, in the face of, and alongside, 21st century modernity and a highly developed tourist industry. Yet few visitors ever really begin to understand the colourful pageantry that surrounds them virtually everywhere they travel on the island.
Unpretentious and easily readable in its approach and encyclopaedic in its coverage, Secrets of Bali is the key to this understanding. From Balinese life, religion, festivals and offerings, architecture, music, dance, textiles, dress, carvings and paintings, masks, manuscripts, meals and much, much more, this is the book to which the visitor can turn for the answers.
Each chapter is written both as a part of the overall narrative, and as a ‘stand alone’ reference on the topic addressed.
If you buy only one book in addition to a standard travel guide, this is the volume for you. Simply a ‘must read’ for foreign visitors, residents, and those everywhere who have fallen under the spell of ‘The Morning of the World’.
Jonathan Copeland
Ni Wayan Murni
424 pages
110 line drawings
1 map
Glossary
Bibliography
“In Secrets of Bali Jonathan Copeland and Ibu Murni present a wonderfully fast moving account of Bali – from the outside in and from the inside out. Secrets of Bali places Bali into the warp and weft of the rich tapestry of historical context and ever changing contemporary life. It generously offers us a feast of rare and passionate insights from a man who has so obviously fallen in love with Bali and from a woman who, in so many ways, is Bali.”
Dr Rob Goodfellow Author, journalist and academic, Australia
“From Balinese Gods to Balinese gamelan, difficult subjects are simply explained in this beautifully written and illustrated work.”
Bill Dalton Author of Bali Handbook, USA
“Eloquent, enthusiastic, and jargon-free.”
Dr Angela Hobart Visiting Reader at Goldsmiths College, University of London and Honorary Research Fellow at University College London
“Fortunately for the reader, the author of Secrets of Bali is not in the slightest bit secretive. The outcome is an accessible and wide ranging guide to the island’s culture and history. The casual reader can dip into it to answer specific questions, whereas the enthusiast can read with equal pleasure from cover to cover.”
Professor Michael Hitchcock Deputy Dean (Research and External Relations) Faculty of Business, Arts and Humanities, University of Chichester, England
“In Bali they say…when the durians come down, the sarongs go up.”
Julia Suryakusuma Author of Sex, Power and Nation
“Secrets of Bali is the best book about the island written and published since 1990 …”
Roy Thompson The Bali Times, 18-24 June 2010
“This book will definitely go with me on my next trip to Bali.”
Michael Clugston South China Morning Post, 22 August 2010
“This 412-page book tries to summarize every aspect of Bali. Starting from the creation of the universe from a Hindu approach (the major religion in Bali), Balinese architecture, rituals, and the arts and up to the paradigm shift among the modern Balinese. All are explained in the 60 chapters.”
Ni Luh Dian Purniawati Bali & Beyond, January 2011
“I feel that Secrets of Bali will join the ranks of the definitive and authoritative volumes of reference books for lovers of Bali everywhere.”
Andrew Charles Tropical Life, September – December 2011
“One of the most readable books about Bali, its people and its traditions.”
Lonely Planet Guide to Bali & Lombok, 2015
To order the paperback
Rp 500,000
Email: murni (at) murnis.com
Secrets of Bali, Fresh Light on the Morning of the World
Murni’s Bali Tours, Where to go, What to do and How to do it
Murni’s Bali Tours, Where to go, What to do and How to do it
ABOUT MY TOURS
Tours of Bali routinely offered by travel agents and drivers haven’t really changed for decades, at least not since I was a girl. But there are now a lot of exciting new places to visit and I want my guests at Murni’s Houses to see them all.
I would also like my guests to have helpful and accurate information about these fresh destinations, so I’ve put together a whole new set of trips and ebook, which you can carry along as an easy-to-read guide.
As well as including the classic jewels in the Balinese crown, my tours cover off the beaten track destinations too, special places away from the mainstream. We have covered a range of interests in each new tour, so whether you are a temple lover, an art aficionado or a history buff, there will be something special just for you.
We’ve also included some wonderful short walks, such as a trek through a cool tropical bamboo forest or a walk along the beautifully terraced rice paddies, or even a refreshing dip in a towering waterfall.
As far as possible our drivers will keep off the main roads and personally accompany you to the sites (unless you don’t want them to). Bear in mind that in some places this is not allowed and local guides are required.
Remember that almost every place has a small entrance charge of a few dollars or a donation. This is needed by local people for expenses such as basic maintenance of the buildings and sites.
Food and meals outside the main tourist areas are not usually of the highest standard and sometimes restaurants are hard to find. Please discuss with the driver what time you would like to eat and he will give you the options and an idea of the price you might expect to pay.
Bring sun cream, a hat and your camera. Above all, be ready for adventure and have fun. The great thing about Bali is to expect the unexpected. You never know when you may come across something really important and exciting, like a religious procession winding down the road with a gamelan orchestra or even a temple ceremony with Balinese dancers. That’s why, like me, you need to be ready to change your plans at the drop of a hat and enjoy the moment.
TOUR 1
Goa Gajah the Elephant Cave – Yeh Pulu Rock-Cut Carvings – Sukarno Center – Gunung Kawi “Valley of the Queens“ – Tirta Empul Holy Water Spring Temple – Mount Batur – Lake Batur – Hot Springs – Tegalalang Rice Terraces – Coffee Plantation and Tea, Coffee and Chocolate Tasting
TOUR 2
Bongkasa – Chocolate Factory – Bedugul – Lake Bratan – Bali Botanic Garden – Candikuning Market – Strawberry Farms – Jatiluwi – Pura Taman Ayun Temple, Mengwi
TOUR 3
Gianyar Market – Nyoman Gunarsa Museum of Classical and Contemporary Balinese Painting – Palace of Klungkung – Kerta Gosa – Semarajaya Museum – Kusamba Beach and Salt Makers – Bat Cave – Candi Dasa – Tenganan
TOUR 4
Margarana War Memorial – Bali Butterfly Park –Ceramic Factory and Showroom – Tanah Lot Temple – Kecak and Fire Trance Dance
TOUR 5
Pejeng Market – Moon Drum Temple, Pura Panataran Sasih – Archaeological Museum – Water Blessing by Bali’s Youngest High Priestess – Kehen Temple – Penglipuran Village – Walk in a Bamboo Forest
TOUR 6
Woodcarvers in Teges – Nyana Tilem Gallery in Mas – Museum Rudana – House of Masks and Puppets – Big Baby Statue – Pura Puseh Desa Batuan – Art Museum Batuan – Take a Dip in a Waterfall
TOUR 7
Taro – Sacred White Cows – Pura Gunung Raung – Gunung Kawi Sebatu – Garuda Village – Ceking Rice Terraces – Chocolate Factory – Petulu, the Heron Village – Walk through the Rice Paddies
TOUR 8
Design Your Own Tour
The tours above are tours that we have designed and love, but feel free to design your own and we will be happy to advise, work out a route and take you there.
What they said about Murni’s Bali Tours, Where to go, What to do and How to do it
“I fell for the waterfall.” David Metcalf, New Zealand, author, photographer and activist
“A must take guide, on a must do tour, on a must see island… detailed descriptions, insightful observations, and stunning photography.”
Dr Rob Goodfellow, Australia, author, journalist, cultural consultant and historian
“Everything I love about a great vacation on this gem of an island … picturesque scenery, priestesses, and piles of chocolate.”
Rupert Pullee, Wales, Proprietor Pen y Gwryd Hotel
“This wonderful guide validates my oft-repeated assertion that there can never be too much Bali in one’s life.”
Lennard Thal, New York City, Rabbi, traveller and after-dinner speaker
“Murni reveals some special Balinese treats … very highly recommended.”
Claudia Auger, Bali, long-term Bali resident
Murni’s Bali Tours, Where to go, What to do and How to do it
Roy Thompson said “Secrets of Bali is the best book about the island written and published since 1990 …”. That was our last book. This time we decided to concentrate just on Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, which is a must for most visitors to Bali. I’ve lived all my life in Ubud and for most of it I have been involved in tourism: restaurant, shops, textiles, art, accommodation and spa, so it was right that I should share some of my knowledge. I’ve travelled the world, so I’ve also added some pitfalls and traps and a few warnings.
Ni Wayan Murni
Murni’s Very Personal Guide to Ubud
Stephanie Brookes, Travel Writer wrote “This is all you need to experience the best of Ubud written by Murni, a legendary local insider and cultural expert.”
Published: 24 October 2011
44 Chapters
Bibliography
Words: 23,646
US$2.99
If you don’t have a Kindle, you can read it as a pdf file, and either way you can read the first 10% as a free sample on the Kindle Store on Amazon.
Start reading Murni’s Very Personal Guide to Ubud in under a minute.
“This is all you need to experience the best of Ubud written by Murni, a legendary local insider and cultural expert.”
Stephanie Brookes, Travel Writer
“I loved this guide to Ubud by Ni Wayan Murni with photos by Jonathan Copeland. I have been to Ubud many times, but found new secrets in Murni’s Very Personal Guide to Ubud. It’s true that she toots her own horn a bit, but she has every reason to do that since the places she owns are well worth checking out. And she doesn’t only give information about her own businesses – she also shares so much information about Ubud that it definitely gives travelers many reasons to go there. Well done..”
Kate Benzin
Author of HowTo Find The Heart Of Bali
A Little Gem
“Murni’s Very Personal Guide to Ubud is to the point and for that reason I love it. Instead of having to wade through the more traditional guides, for those wanting to get to the heart of Ubud quickly, grab this one first.
If you do pop into Murni’s Warung, ask if she is about, or to their spa. She is one of the nicest people I’ve had the pleasure to meet and if it wasn’t for this book, I would never have known of her. However, she is famous in Ubud for her entrepreneurial life and the prosperity she has brought to her village.
I have read the previous review and must say I can’t agree that it is true for all people. If you want to read lots of information to try and work out what to do, and you want to spend hours doing it, sure, pick up the wordy Lonely Planet. To say that Murni has just plucked all of this from the Internet is absurd. She has lived in Ubud all her life!
I really value the information in this, it helped me immensely when I first went to Ubud to research it for my own book, there is likely no-one who knows Ubud as well as Murni and Jonathan. For $2.99, this is a little gem and if you want the easy and informative guide to get your head around a city that literally sprawls over mountains and vales, this guide is perfect.”
Clare McAlaney
Author of Things You Need to Know About Bali
Written with the simple traveler in mind
“When I travel, I try to find everything I can about the place in the internet. Sometimes, it gets too confusing when you have to browse through several web sites to get the basic information you need. Murni’s Very Personal Guide to Ubud gave me most of the information I needed on Ubud. Sure, it is subjective but the writer did put a caveat from the start. I’m just a simple traveler who wants to know the mode of transport in Ubud, what are the places I can see in the area, should I activate my roaming or just get a local sim card, etc. The book is very helpful guide for travelers like me and you can’t go wrong with a price equivalent to a cup of coffee in your local coffee shop.”
Jay Rodriguez
Very Enriching
“Who else but Murni to write a guide about Ubud. Anyone who sees Ubud, indeed Bali without any depth of knowledge is missing out on a lot. I first went to Ubud in early 1980, and still go regularly. And I have tramped dusty paths in the evenings to eat at Murni’s over the years. The best places are the places I go on my FEET, and not in a car. Murni, over so many years has gone from being a girl with a simple food stall to writing an app about Ubud. She is all class.”
Janice Brown
Thank You, Murni
“Thank you Murni! You have certainly filled this Ubud guide with information and insights that I have not found revealed elsewhere. I just finished my 3rd visit and was still using your guide to explore this very special area.”
From Tattoos to Textiles, Murni’s Guide to Asian Textiles, All You Need to Know … And More
From Tattoos to Textiles, Murni’s Guide to Asian Textiles, All You Need to Know … And More by Ni Wayan Murni and Jonathan Copeland
From Tattoos to Textiles, Murni’s Guide to Asian Textiles, All You Need to Know … And More unravels the mysteries inherent in the ancient culture of textile making in an easy to read narrative from one of Bali’s most famous textile collectors.
357 pages
Over 270 colour photographs
Glossary
Bibliography
Ni Wayan Murni
Jonathan Copeland
“From Tattoos to Textiles binds together the colourful threads of an extraordinary human story.”
Dr Fiona Kerlogue
Deputy Keeper of Anthropology with responsibility for the Asian and European collections at the Horniman Museum, London, Author of Arts of Southeast Asia and Batik: Design, Style and History
“What a treat to read such a beautiful, flowing, informative and passionate treatise on Indonesian textiles.”
Peter O’Neill OAM Wollongong, New South Wales, Australia
“From Tattoos to Textiles is both easy-to-read and informative.”
Professor Michael Hitchcock Dean, Faculty of Hospitality and Tourism Management, Macau University of Science and Technology, Author of Indonesian Textiles
“This extraordinary book will not only enthral and enlighten readers but also energize the tradition of hand-woven textiles in Southeast Asia.”
Dr Linda McIntosh
Curator for The Jim Thompson House, Bangkok and Curator of The Tilleke & Gibbins Southeast Asian Textile Collection, Bangkok, Author of Ritual Thai Textiles, Status, Myth and the Supernatural and Art of Southeast Asian Textiles: The Tilleke and Gibbins Collection
“From Tattoos to Textiles tells a tale as old as Adam and Eve, as mysterious as Neith the Egyptian goddess, as intriguing as General George Washington, the first President of the United States, making his own clothes, and certainly a great deal more colourful than Chairman Mao’s cotton boiler suits.”
Stephanie Brookes
Travel Writer
“The 357 page eBook From Tattoos to Textiles with 270 color photos, is an informative guide to identifying hand woven ethnic textiles of Indonesia and how to tell the authentic from the fake.”
Bill Dalton
The Frugal Balinist, Bali Advertiser
23 July 2014
Audrey Pipe
5.0 out of 5 stars A Hugely Successfull Collaboration On The A-Z of Asian Textiles
Reviewed in the United Kingdom on 25 January 2014
Verified Purchase
Murni’s passion provides a formidable authority on the subject and Jonathan’s global context and photographs illustrate their creation and beauty
Susan L. Ruddy
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent primer on Indonesian Textiles
Reviewed in the United States on 26 March 2018
Jonathan Copeland’s book on Indonesian Textiles is the best – maybe only – overview of the amazing textiles of Indonesia that you will ever need. His writing is clear, the photos are illuminating, and it is a superb window through which to look at the myriad cultures of this ever-fascinating island nation.
Forty Delicious Years – 1974-2014, Murni’s Warung, Ubud, Bali, From Toasted Sandwiches to Balinese Smoked Duck
GOURMAND AWARDS 2019
Finalist: A06 Special Awards
Forty Delicious Years – 1974-2014, Murni’s Warung, Ubud, Bali, From Toasted Sandwiches to Balinese Smoked Duck
Jonathan Copeland Rob Goodfellow Peter O’Neill
Email: murni (at) murnis.com
Forty Delicious Years is the story of Bali’s most enduring culinary landmark – Murni’s Warung in Ubud. Narrated by some of the Warung’s most intriguing patrons, with a Preface by Murni herself, the book tells the story of how a humble roadside stall became an institution – in fact a must visit on a magical must visit island.
This easy to read and immensely enjoyable collection of vignettes was published to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Murni’s Warung in February 2014.
“It’s an institution. It’s a favourite, and a hive of memories and friendships. It’s Murni’s Warung.”
Jero Asri Kerthyasa
“It’s not just food and a good time that you get at Murni’s Warung, but a complete sensual experience.”
Professor Michael Hitchcock
“Murni’s Warung … the best clubhouse in the Universe.”
Karen Goodman
“Murni is and always will be one of my favourite mothers in town.”
Janet de Neefe
“For forty delicious years Murni’s Warung has been somewhere to relish life, excellent service, good food, and the company of friends.”
José in den Kleef
Bring your copy to dinner at Murni’s Warung and if Murni is there she will sign it.
If she is not there … then there is still a wonderful menu, which deserves to be worked through course by course by course by course.
Book Reviews
Forty Forte
Murni’s Warung,
Hello Bali, Editor’s Finds, February 2015
If you have been living in Bali for some time, chances are you know and love Murni’s Warungin Ubud. Dating back to the 1970s, Murni’s Warung is a treasured food joint with authentic Balinese food and Campuhan River views. Furthermore, Ibu Murni herself is a beloved figure whose hospitality has earned her many friends and loves over the years. However, if you don’t yet know who Ibu Murni is or where to find Murni’s Warung, it’s high time you do. One of the best ways to do that is to read Forty Delicious Years, a compilation of stories about the warung and the namesake founder told by the warung’s eclectic patrons. It’s an interesting insight into what it’s like to be among the island’s insiders.
Ubud Icon Murni’s Warung Turns Forty
Katrin Figge
Jakarta Globe
4 April 2014
Murni’s Warung remains an Ubud icon 40 years since it was established, with fans crediting its founder as the heart of the place and even of Ubud.
She is often referred to as the “mother of Ubud,” and her restaurant has been a longtime favorite among both travelers and locals: Ni Wayan Murni, a Bali native who recently celebrated the 40th anniversary of Murni’s Warung with the launch of a book that includes personal memories and anecdotes of people who have accompanied her on her journey from the 1970s until today.
Author and photographer Jonathan Copeland, co-editor of “Forty Delicious Years,” as well as a good friend of Murni, said that it felt right to celebrate this milestone “in a more tangible way than simply a T-shirt and party.”
“We didn’t want a book blowing our own trumpet — there are enough of those vanity publications around — but instead a book focussing on the times and life of Murni’s Warung as seen through the eyes of its guests over 40 years,” he said.
It is an approach that gives readers the chance to learn more about Murni and also about Ubud and Bali in general, and particularly how significantly it has changed over the years.
The first thing that needed to be done was to decide on the number of contributors; 40 contributor for 40 years was the logical solution.
“We then compiled a list of colorful, engaging and interesting characters whom we thought we could contact,” Copeland said. “We went through the time-consuming process of trying to track them down. Some were easy to locate but some were impossible to find. We were delighted with the final list as they comprised a wide range of nationalities, occupations and ages which cover the life of Murni’s Warung from day one until the present. They are all busy people with big jobs and we are very grateful for the time they spent on this.”
Murni, who was born in Penestanan, just a few minutes away from Ubud, began selling breakfast snacks before going to school in the 1950s. Less than 20 years later, Murni already owned four shops on Sanur Beach and established Murni’s Warung in Campuhan-Ubud.
Besides traveling the world and collecting Asian antiques and textiles, Murni built Murni’s Houses and Murni’s Villas catering to the growing number of tourists, and recently opened the Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses.
In the book, Murni writes that she still finds it incredible to look back at how she started Murni’s Warung — with no more than a bowl of soup and a sandwich.
“I wasn’t a cook and had no knowledge of what Western food was. I had no business plan, no mission statement, and no spreadsheets. I didn’t have electricity or a fridge or an electric oven. I didn’t have staff or suppliers or a car,” she said. “But I did have passion and drive and energy. And I had friends and customers and hard work. Luckily, Murni’s Warung grew and prospered and has been able to serve food and drinks to thousands of people these 40 years.”
Murni also has a very special connection to the restaurant’s location on a gorge above the river Wos, which is sacred to the Balinese people.
“It has been part of my life, going back more than 40 years,” she said. “When I was a very young child […] I played and bathed down there at the river and among the rocks. When I was older, I helped carry rocks up from the river bed to the road for construction use. Later still, after my parents split up, I secretly met my mother below the bridge. I never dreamed that I would be able to buy part of the gorge, live there and go to sleep to the sound of the sacred river crashing over the rocks.”
Copeland, who has worked with Murni on three previous publications, said that not many people can survive in the highly competitive F&B industry, especially these days, when new restaurants pop up everywhere in Bali.
“Restaurants often start out as flavor of the month and fizzle out,” he said. “It is not an easy business and diners are demanding and unforgiving customers who don’t give you a second chance.
“I think it’s easy, in retrospect, to see how Murni’s early success came about,” he added. “In the early days there simply wasn’t a place in Ubud to get good food. Murni’s Warung was a beacon for early travelers to hang out. They spread the word and they still do. But obviously there had to be substance to it. I think the substance is what has made Murni’s Warung remain a favorite for so long. Murni is a perfectionist. She is very concerned about the comfort and happiness of her guests. And she is a traditionalist concerned about the preservation of Balinese culture. Murni’s Warung is a Balinese building with Balinese food served by Balinese waitresses in Balinese dress.”
Dr. Lawrence Blair, an anthropologist, author and filmmaker who has been based in Bali for almost 40 years, was among the warung’s earliest customers and still vividly remembers a quiet Ubud.
“Instead of tourists, there were only a few ‘travelers’ and barely a handful of eccentric resident expats,” he writes in his section in the book. “And the place to meet them was Murni’s Warung. But the first real draw to Murni’s was the discovery that hers was the sole place in Ubud to have mastered that most rare and esoteric art of producing a sunny-side up properly fried egg. Further cause for enthusiasm was when she also became the first person in Ubud to provide natural yoghurt and wild honey with one’s tropical fruit.”
Blair was also witness to some of the illustrious figures who have visited Murni’s Warung over the years, including Richard Branson, Mick Jagger, Richard Gere and Diane Von Furstenberg.
“My only regret is that they weren’t all there at the same time,” Blair wrote.
Australian-born Janet de Neefe, founder of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, has also been a regular to Murni’s since the 1980s.
“Many of my fondest memories of Ubud in the Eighties are wrapped up in the walls of this multi-leveled eatery,” she writes in the book. “We’d sip on freshly squeezed lime drinks brimming with crushed ice while slowly eating nasi campur or nasi goreng . Lunchtimes drifted into dinner and it didn’t matter. There was nothing urgent to be done except chat about life, love and cosmic heroes — there were no mobile phones, Internet, e-mails, reality TV, not even Facebook.”
De Neefe, like the other contributors, have always enjoyed the peaceful surroundings as much as the delicious food. But they also all agree that Murni, the heart and the soul of the restaurant — some might even argue, of Ubud — has always been the real draw and the secret of the restaurant’s lasting success.
“Back then, I remember that one of the greatest joys about visiting Murni’s Warung was simply Murni,” de Neefe said. “She used to sit at the front desk and invariably wander up to your table and have a chat. There is so much to love about Murni. Whether it be her heart that’s as big as the moon, her gentle nature, grace or soft humor.”
Forty Delicious Years, 1974-2014
“I enjoyed every chapter of this book. A wonderful collection of stories from long-term residents, many of whom are famous authors, artists and scholars. An entertaining and interesting read of reflections of Murni, the “Mother of Ubud”, who started a humble little restaurant some forty years ago. It’s a journey of loving, living and laughter through these pages. Highly recommended read.”
Stephanie Brookes
Author Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage – Cultural Journeys of Discovery
An Ubud icon – Murni’s Warung is celebrating 40 years of operations with the publication of a new foodie book.
Murni’s Warung, located in what is arguably the cultural capital of Bali, was Ubud’s first international standard restaurant and, on February 20, 2014, it marked 40 years of continual operations.
Celebrating the landmark, The Orchid Press publication “Forty Delicious Years” is the story of Bali’s most enduring culinary landmark—Murni’s Warung in Ubud.
Narrated by some of the Warung’s most noteworthy patrons and with a preface by the legendary Murni, the book tells the story of how a humble roadside food stall became an Ubud institution and a ‘must visit’ on a magical ‘must visit’ island.
According to Ibu Murni, considered by many to be a “Mother of Balinese Tourism”: “The 20th of February in 2014 also happened to be my calendar birthday and, what’s more, this date also fell on the same day as my Balinese birthday. This rarely happens, so it’s was a triple … no, a quadruple celebration.”
Bali Update
6 April 2014
www.balidiscovery.com
FORTY DELICIOUS YEARS IS THE BEST BOOK ON BALI–TAKE A VOYAGE TO THE CULINARY AND SOCIAL HEART OF THE ISLAND OF THE GODS
By Vivienne Kruger on July 7, 2014
Forty Delicious Years is one of the finest books ever produced about the mystical, legendary, god-blessed island of Bali–the sacred, unsullied morning of the world. Bali is a brilliant, bright emerald jewel set in the elongated necklace of 17,000 islands that comprise the brooding, primeval Indonesian archipelago. Anyone who has ever visited my beloved Bali–or is planning a sojourn of personal discovery or food discovery–should bring this book along with them. Forty Delicious Years is an incredibly revealing and intimate masterpiece about Ni Wayan Murni, her gorgeous gorge-side Warung restaurant in Ubud, and the constellation of notable expatriates and international personalities that have made Murni’s Warung their social and culinary home away from home. The tell-almost-all book is filled with the charm and beauty of Murni’s universe, reflected in the anecdotes, accolades, reflections, and stories penned by forty of her often famous, well-known (Mick Jagger) customers and fans. These intensely personal, soul-revealing chapters empower all of us to be expats on Bali for awhile, and experience life as very lucky strangers in an unknown paradise. I lived in Bali for two years, and know first-hand the seductive, permanent pull on the soul by the spiritual, always-god-conscious Balinese and this very fertile, bountiful island sanctuary.
The writing is incredibly alive and spectacular, and is delightfully easy to read and digest. The book takes us into the sanctified world of Balinese cooking, traditional village social life, tinkling gamelan orchestras, and culture–seasoned with Murni’s kindness and career, and deep, longstanding friendships in the community. Situated near the old Dutch suspension bridge in Campuan-Ubud, Murni’s Warung was built from the ground up, and is a legend in its own time. For almost four scrumptious decades, it has been the ultimate place for Ubud expatriates (and tourists alike) to fulfill their most deep-seated Balinese and western dessert fantasies. The stunning, four-level restaurant is carefully decorated with Murni’s exquisite antiques, Balinese stone statuary, Buddha images, and artworks–and enjoys a spellbinding, natural riverside location and view. A visually and spiritually enlightening, five-foot-tall bronze statue of Ganesha the Elephant God symbolically creates prosperity and removes all obstacles in the Lounge Bar of Murni’s Warung. Ordered by Murni as a specially designed commissioned piece in 1997, it took highly esteemed, respected, experienced Balinese artisans-craftsmen five years to complete!
Murni remains an integral part of her village of birth and her island of Bali–and the forty testimonial chapters written by forty different long-time expatriates, visiting Bali scholars, and international adventurers/wayfarers are personal, unique, revealing and priceless. This book is a deep and memorable journey through residence in Bali, religious devotion, ceremonial splendor, and life as an expat (or repeat, Bali-obsessed visitor) eight sacred degrees south of the equator. As a first-hand travel journal collection in its own right, these personal tales of adventure–and longing for the spirituality and benediction of Bali–are amazing. And they all swirl around the wonderful people of Bali, Balinese life, and Murni’s longstanding contributions to and dedication to her community, family, local temples, and the gods. One of the best stories is about a very loyal, Kintamani Bali dog named Dausa–who spent his life lounging on the front steps of Murni’s Warung as Murni’s personal guard dog. He lead a charmed life, and enjoyed such delicious foods as chicken sate sticks and Murni’s highly coveted chocolate chip cookies! A very pampered Balinese dog indeed!
I am an expert on Bali, as well as on traditional Balinese food and food culture, and have complete admiration for this very special new book about one of Bali’s most important and iconic purveyors of Balinese food, art, antiques, and hotel accommodation on the unforgettable island of the gods.
Reviewed by Dr. Vivienne Kruger, Ph.D. Author of Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali. Tuttle Publishing, 2014.
Forty Delicious Years – 1974-2014, Murni’s Warung, Ubud, Bali, From Toasted Sandwiches to Balinese Smoked Duck
Famed for its pristine beaches, striking sunsets and rich culture, the sought-after Indonesian destination also boasts a burgeoning number of highly lauded hotels, restaurants and bars. Meredith Woo goes on a gastronomic eight-day journey to the Island of the Gods.
An Ubud Invitation
An hour from the closest beach town, inland Ubud offers other attractions: art and culture, serenity and some of Mother Nature’s best views.
A day trip to the central foothills of Gianyar regency will not suffice. Ubud has so much more to offer – from meditative sunrise mountain peak views to villages known for intricate silver-smithing and the delicate craft of egg painting.
SHOP AND SAVOUR
If you seek museum quality relics, visit Murni’s Warung Shop. A plethora of rare pieces such as a Balinese comb bearing green and red carnellians (Rp 5,750,000) and intricate batik stamps (from Rp 385,000) feature in this 41-year-old establishment, which is part gallery.
The adjoining four-storey restaurant offers daily specials such as stir-fried duck (Rp 79,000) and beef rendang. Beyond Murni’s expertise in Asian antiques, textiles and food, she has expanded her portfolio to include a spa and guest houses in downtown Ubud.
26 February, 2015 Contented Traveller Paula McInerney
It was by great fortune that we found Murni’s Houses, Ubud, Bali through FlipKey by tripadvisor who had given us carte blanche to pick wherever we wanted to stay in Bali and we chose 6 nights at Murni’s Houses. This is all part of our Travel Series, Bali for Baby Boomers. We found Murni’s Houses but also found out that Murni is a living legend in not just Ubud, her hometown, but in all of Bali.
Straight away our interest was piqued about both the lady and the many businesses that she owns throughout Ubud and the reverence that she is held in. We quickly booked with Flipkey knowing that we were on to something unique and we were right. We also had read that Richard Gere, Richard Branson and David Copperfield the magician have visited Murni’s, so we thought that Gordon and I might just join this illustrious cast.
About Ubud
Ubud is Eat. Pray. Love territory and a book that I have yet to read, though I did see the movie and discussed whether Ubud had changed since that book and that movie. We have been here before and we have noticed the increase in visitors. That actually takes nothing away from this amazing place. Ubud is an artistic and culturally rich regency with its own king and royal family. Many tourists come here as do many expats seeking the alternative lifestyle. Food abounds and you would be hard pressed to find better foods than dining at streetside warungs. It is the home of art and you cannot avoid the skill of the Balinese artisans. It is also home to yoga, massages and all things alternative. You should head to the Sacred Monkey Forest at the end of Monkey Forest Rd. This is a magnificent jungle sanctuary, that is full of mysticism and lots of monkeys. The best way to see Ubud is to walk. Walk a lot, have a meal at a local warung and then treat yourself to a massage. It works.
Our first impressions on arriving at Murni’s Houses
This is a traditional Balinese compound where the houses are set in amazing gardens. Often referred to as the Villas of the 33 statues, there are waterfalls, and lush gardens and you hear the sounds in the distance of village life. There is Balinese art everywhere and there is serenity about this compound. There is also seclusion despite being a couple of minutes from the main road of Ubud.
Our traditional Balinese rooms, and we did have a number of rooms, and our outdoor areas overlooked the gardens yet protected us from the occasional Ubud rain storms. We loved it. We had Wi-Fi and were well taken care of, being given ginger tea to help a cough I had developed in the snow in Japan. This is a Balinese cure all and these herbal medicines known are known as ‘jamu’. (Turmeric and lemon grass also work).
This gave us a very real local experience meeting with the people who work here and getting to know a little more about the real way of life for the Balinese.
More About Murni’s Houses
In the early 1980s Murni started to build these open-air pavilions amongst the lush gardens and next to open fields. It is here that you can attest to her eye for tradition and art with the fountains and the statues everywhere you look.
About Murni the Lady
Ni Wayan Murni was born in Penestanan, Bali about 9 kms from Ubud to a farming family so it is no wonder that hard work comes naturally to her. During the early 1970s she owned 4 shops on Sanur beach. It was here, selling sarongs, that she actually sold some to president Sukarno and Mick Jagger of The Rolling Stones. This was not to be her first brush with fame, and Mick has some serious street cred.
She returned to Ubud and opened a shop and here she used to make her husband soup and a sandwich for lunch. Tourists stopped and wanted to have some too and that is how Ubud’s first real restaurant, Murni’s Warung, came into being. This institution has seen its fair share of celebs and tourists coming to savor her signature dishes. Try the famous Balinese smoked duck. Murni’s Warung is like her style in all of her ventures – traditional Balinese. There are four levels that cascade down a steep hillside overlooking the Wos River. The thatched roofs, traditional open wooden architecture, and a vast collection of stone carvings gives you a very Balinese experience. Talk to Ketut and he will share with you what it is like living in Bali.
She was also the first person in Ubud to open two antiques shops in the 80s and 90s. These galleries showcased many antiques, textiles and costumes and other pieces that she knew were special. Nowadays, many of the prized pieces are in Murni’s Warung,
Murni is active in the arts and culture scene of Ubud, and has lectured in the US on Balinese textiles.
She also plays in a women’s gamelan group at important religious ceremonies.
Tamarind Spa
Murni has also created Tamarind Spa at Murni’s Houses and this spa was listed as the top spa in Ubud on Trip Advisor within 3 months of its opening. It is here that she continues with her ethos of everything Balinese, with traditional Balinese massages located within the stunning and serene gardens and waterfall. It is not the cheapest massage that you can get, but the staff are trained and located as it is in the art garden, it is a total experience.
Thank You to FlipKey by trip advisor for making this property available to us for 6 great nights. Great find, highly recommended and a perfect inclusion for our Travel Series.
“À la balinaise chez Murni’s Houses: Les amoureux du vieil Ubud appreciéront les quatre guest houses de Ibu Murni, ‘la mère d’Ubud’, dans le beau jardin d’une accueillante demeure balinaise en bord de rizière. Il n’y a pas de panneau, il faut donc demander votre chemin pour trouver l’endroit. C’est le lieu idéal pour se sentir chez soi au calme, à quelques pas de la grand-rue d’Ubud. Le site internet regorge d’informations sur Bali.”
“Murni’s Houses: ostlich von Murni’s Warung, die Treppen hinauf nach Andangan. Blick auf die Reisfielder. Ideal fur einem langeren Aufenthalt. Alle Zimmer mit Warmwasser und Ventilator. Babysitter sind zu bekommen.”
“If you decide to go, be forewarned, people become hopelessly lazy here listening to serenading geckos and crowing roosters. Breakfast turns into lunch and you’re still sitting in the restaurant, surrounded by gardens, eating, talking, thinking. But at Murni’s you always have tomorrow.”
“Murni’s Houses: east of her famous warung, is up the stairs… and overlooks the rice fields. Four rooms. This idyllic setting is perfect for those who want to rest. Murni’s famous breakfasts are served here. Rooms range from a single room with bath and verandah to large house with two bedrooms and two baths (can sleep six). All rooms are screened, have hot water and fans. Baby sitter available. Credit cards accepted.”
“Long a favorite of Jakarta-based expats, Murni’s Houses lies below the restaurant by the same name … maid service and helpful staff. Each accommodation is whimsically decorated with Balinese paintings and hanging winged gods. From your veranda contemplate some of the area’s most impressive examples of agricultural engineering.”
The ultimate palms and paradise destination? There are many, and Bali is definitely on the shortlist. But there’s more to the Indonesian island besides white-sand beaches and clear blue water…
For me, the town of Ubud is the best place to base myself. I find myself among the tranquil, terraced rice fields and beautiful mountain scenery … my adventurous week … aimed at exploring and experiencing Bali’s local way of life.
Rejuvenation treatment
The next day, my body tells me it is time to take a rest. I book a three-hour relaxation and rejuvenation treatment at Murni’s Tamarind Spa in Ubud. Locally, Murni is affectionately known as ‘the Mother of Ubud’. She pioneered tourism in Ubud in the 1970s by setting up her legendary restaurant, Murni’s Warung, where artists, adventurers and academics hung out, drinking mango lassies. 42 years later, Murni still lovingly presides over her dream creation on the jungle-clad Campuan Gorge above the Wos River. The stellar-rated Tamarind Spa is the latest addition to Murni’s business. Under a beautiful tamarind tree, I find out that my massage therapist, Kartini, was the former personal therapist of the President of the Seychelles.
After a welcome drink, cold towel and foot ritual, Kartini starts to weave her therapeutic magic on me. She begins with an hour-long traditional massage, deeply relaxing, mind- soothing and muscle-relieving. A full-body exfoliation follows, with a fragrant green-tea scrub and a yoghurt rub down. After that heavenly treatment, my skin feels softer than that of a baby. I end up soaking in a warm bath with multi-coloured flower petals floating on the water’s surface. Finally, after a pot of organic herbal tea and fresh tropical fruit, I leave feeling relaxed as can be.
Places to eat
Murni’s Warung
This four-level open-air restaurant overlooks a jungle- clad ravine and raging river. Not only does the restaurant serve excellent Indonesian and western dishes, it also houses a shop with textiles, jewellery, tribal artefacts and collectables. Try their famous apple pie.
Things to do
Murni’s Tamarind Spa
Located in the heart of Ubud, this beautiful spa in quiet tropical gardens offers aromatherapy massages, traditional Balinese boreh herbal scrubs and more.
“What a wonderful surprise to meet such a dear old friend on the web! Ni Wayan Murni is an international treasure! Murni’s kindness, warmth, gracious hospitality and genuine caring for her community, family, guests and friends around the world have endeared her to all of us who have had the great pleasure of knowing her.”
Bali, The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Most Spectacular Tropical Island, Linda Hoffman, Tuttle Publishing, 2012
“Murni’s Warung Shop at Murni’s Warung, Jalan Raya, Ubud, beside the Campuan bridge, tel 972146. Traditional arts and crafts from all over the archipelago, as well as overseas, assiduously collected by Murni who has formidable fine arts credentials and seasoned sophisticated taste. If she’s around Murni will sign the best-selling Secrets of Bali, Fresh LIght on the Morning of the World by Jonathan Copeland and Ni Wayan Murni. You can download her ebook Murni’s Very Personal Guide to Ubud from her web site. [Note from Murni: you can also download Secrets of Bali from the web site.]
Bali, The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Most Spectacular Tropical Island, Linda Hoffman, Tuttle Publishing, 2012
Murni’s Houses. Carey Lovelace, The New York Times 9 April 1995
“I was lucky enough to spend 14 of my 18 days in Ubud at Murni’s Houses …
Aside from running one of the area’s best-known restaurants, the enterprising Murni (in Bali, last names are considered sacred and never used) is also the proprietor of a group of stylish boutiques in Campuhan called Kunang-Kunang that sell Indonesian goods in a sedate atmosphere tailored to Western tastes.”
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“À la balinaise chez Murni’s Houses: Les amoureux du vieil Ubud appreciéront les quatre guest houses de Ibu Murni, ‘la mère d’Ubud’, dans le beau jardin d’une accueillante demeure balinaise en bord de rizière. Il n’y a pas de panneau, il faut donc demander votre chemin pour trouver l’endroit. C’est le lieu idéal pour se sentir chez soi au calme, à quelques pas de la grand-rue d’Ubud. Le site internet regorge d’informations sur Bali.”
“Murni’s Houses: ostlich von Murni’s Warung, die Treppen hinauf nach Andangan. Blick auf die Reisfielder. Ideal fur einem langeren Aufenthalt. Alle Zimmer mit Warmwasser und Ventilator. Babysitter sind zu bekommen.”
Murni’s Houses – Travel and Leisure
